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M20 Starter? Hoping not.

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    #1

    M20 Starter? Hoping not.

    Hello R3v! This is my first thread here, about my first e30 I got a few weeks ago, used to have a e36m

    I've been trying to diagnose a hard-start, and I think I have a bad starter, but I wanted to get some input from the community, and hopefully not have to go through replacing a starter...

    The car will crank, and sound like its trying to catch, but it sounds like a slow crank. Eventually it will fire up, and it runs fine when once its going. Sometimes, I turn the key, and just get a click and no cranking. Just today, I tried cranking it, and it sounded like the starter broke loose, and just kept spinning for another 10 seconds. It did this twice...


    Things I've checked. I've got fuel, did the 30 second test, and came out great. Spark seems OK as once I get it going its fine. I replaced the engine ground strap, and the main and fuel pump relays. CPS tested fine, as did the ICV (didnt test the TPS)

    Battery holds volts OK.. I showed 13v after charging overnight, and I brought it to Autozone and they tested it as good.

    I went through Jim Levie's entire diagnostic for a no-start, and didnt come up with any issues. The only issue I found was voltage at the coil was 10.7v, when the battery showed 12.3


    Im thinking its the starter, especially considering the new issue where it sounds like its spinning free for 10 seconds or so.

    Anyone spare some input? Does this sound like a definite case of a bad starter? I just dont want to replace it if I dont have to...



    Heres a picture of the car... I cant wait to drive this thing!! I just want to get this started and drive it for at least a few weeks before winter hits..

    Tags: None
    #2
    Either there is a problem with the primary power/ground circuits or you have a dying starter.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

    Comment

      #3
      Thanks again for your help Jim.

      I do believe it's the starter. The car is slow to crank, and it started spinning freely a few times. Once the car is running, it runs great. I also replaced the main engine ground with no success.

      I'm going to replace the starter... I am not looking foward to this!

      Comment

        #4
        The starter bolts ARE a pain to get to, but it isn't a terrible job. It helps to have a bunch of extensions, and a helper, so one of you can work from the top, and one can work from underneath. If it's truly stumping you, you can always pull the intake manifold to get access (it only requires a few gaskets and the bitch tube o-rings to re seal it afterwards).

        Comment

          #5
          Nice username!

          I do have plenty of extensions, wobbles, and u joints. I'm hoping it will go fairly easily. It doesn't sound nearly as difficult as the e36 starter.


          Any insight into the coolant lines down there? Bavauto diy says to pull the coolant hoses, but another diy doesn't mention it, can I get around them?

          Comment

            #6
            Well I pulled the starter last night, and the new one should be coming in today.

            It really wasn't that bad of a job. Took a while, and I had to shed some blood during the fight, but hey that always happens, right?


            I'm just really hoping this solves my issue! All the diagnostics I ran came back fine, so the next logical failure point must be the starter.

            Comment

              #7
              Ok I replaced the starter, and Im still not starting. It cranks a lot better now, but it only cranks for a few seconds then quits.


              Im at a loss, any suggestions?

              Comment

                #8
                Are you sure your battery is still good? This sounds like the starter is not getting enough juice.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Well I had charged it over night and was showing 12.3v but I haven't checked it since then. I also took it to AutoZone and they tested it, but I'm not really sure what they do to test it? They certainly didn't stress test it I know that much

                  I'll have to charge it again and keep an eye on the volts

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Did you figure it out? Could be the alternator not charging the battery enough.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Not yet. I'm going to check the spark tonight and maybe do a noid test on the injectors.

                      I'm running out of things to test... Another guy suggested I replace the ecu, I don't really want to have to do that

                      Comment

                        #12
                        So I was able to find the issue with the spark. I had made an error while swapping over the plug wires. So that is sorted.

                        So now the car will start, but it only starts after a few attempts of cranking. Sometimes if I turn the key, it will crank one or two times, then quit, at this point I have to turn the key back off before trying to crank again.

                        It seems like every 5th or 6th time the car will allow me to crank it for longer, and the car will start and run perfectly fine.


                        Someone via email had suggested swapping the ECU. Could this be the issue? I had also considered maybe a faulty ignition lock cylinder?

                        Any suggestions as to my next step would be appreciated! I will try to source a known good ECU in the mean time.

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