M20 Rebuild Questions

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • goldenE30
    Member
    • May 2014
    • 48

    #1

    M20 Rebuild Questions

    So im rebuilding my M20(gaskets, seals, o-rings, etc.). Just took apart the head on monday to get it crack checked,cleaned, resurfaced this weekend. I just wanted to get a few thoughts on what i need to get to keep my M20 durable and running strong. Already getting the Upper and lower gasket sets from eeuroparts.com . Thanks in advance!
    sigpic
  • SkiFree
    R3VLimited
    • Jun 2011
    • 2766

    #2
    What you are doing is a refresh, not a rebuild.

    In addition to what you're I'd look closely at the cam/rockers/rocker shafts, replace main and rod bearings (have crank checked out), inspect the oil pump, soak and clean the oil sprayer bar, have the valve springs tested.

    I'm sure there's more, it's just late. Best of luck with the project.
    ADAMS Autosport

    Comment

    • Bullhead
      E30 Addict
      • Sep 2014
      • 532

      #3
      Do you have the engine pulled or just the head pulled from the engine? This will let us know how far you can go with your skill set and tool set, those last 2 would be decent to throw in as well so everyone knows a little more about the question in general. No disrespect intended :)
      sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

      Comment

      • Ether-D
        R3VLimited
        • Sep 2011
        • 2838

        #4
        Originally posted by SkiFree
        What you are doing is a refresh, not a rebuild.

        In addition to what you're I'd look closely at the cam/rockers/rocker shafts, replace main and rod bearings (have crank checked out), inspect the oil pump, soak and clean the oil sprayer bar, have the valve springs tested.

        I'm sure there's more, it's just late. Best of luck with the project.
        This. Super easy and worth it. But I'd only replace the crank and main bearings if they were causing issues or it had been run really low on oil. They're an extra few hundred dollars that may not be needed, unless you are gonna put another couple hundred thousand miles on it. I'm also a really cheap redneck.
        Originally posted by Andy.B
        Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
        1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
        ~~~~~~~~~~
        I was born on 3/25…
        ~~~~~~~~~~

        Comment

        • TobyB
          R3V Elite
          • Oct 2011
          • 5163

          #5
          Unless it has less than 50k miles, valve guides and stem seals and a valve job
          won't be money wasted.

          Likewise, rings... which usually grows into 'pistons and rings'

          t
          now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

          Comment

          • goldenE30
            Member
            • May 2014
            • 48

            #6
            The motor is already pulled out and on a stand, just recently took the head apart and need to test the springs and clean the valves and check for any scoring. Wasnt planning on taking the block apart, but now it seems like its a better idea to take it apart and inspect everything. I have no idea how many miles are on the block, picked it up from a pick n pull in the bay area. Planning on DD'ing it so ill be putting plenty of miles on it. Anyone know where i can find a specification sheet for clearances and sizes for the motor and where i can get affordable parts for a broke college student? and which part is the oil spray bar?
            sigpic

            Comment

            • Ether-D
              R3VLimited
              • Sep 2011
              • 2838

              #7
              Oil spray bar is on the head across the top of the cam to oil the lobes and rockers, looks like a brake line.
              I believe the rod bearing caps have torque to yield bolts, which means you have to replace them when you remove them. And those fuckers aren't cheap. I'd just check the rotating assembly by feel and if it feels anything other than perfectly smooth, re build it. Main bearings are $100, rod bearings are $80, $60 for rod cap bolts, and then you should just go ahead and replace your pistons and rings and have it bored accordingly ($500-$1000 more).

              This is what we here on r3v call a case of the "while you're in there"s.

              Then there's always "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Which I'm a fan of.
              Good luck bro.
              Originally posted by Andy.B
              Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
              1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
              ~~~~~~~~~~
              I was born on 3/25…
              ~~~~~~~~~~

              Comment

              • Bullhead
                E30 Addict
                • Sep 2014
                • 532

                #8
                Originally posted by Ether-D
                Oil spray bar is on the head across the top of the cam to oil the lobes and rockers, looks like a brake line.
                I believe the rod bearing caps have torque to yield bolts, which means you have to replace them when you remove them. And those fuckers aren't cheap. I'd just check the rotating assembly by feel and if it feels anything other than perfectly smooth, re build it. Main bearings are $100, rod bearings are $80, $60 for rod cap bolts, and then you should just go ahead and replace your pistons and rings and have it bored accordingly ($500-$1000 more).

                This is what we here on r3v call a case of the "while you're in there"s.

                Then there's always "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Which I'm a fan of.
                Good luck bro.
                ^ If it's on a stand I would be very thorough with it. You can do everything you want (or can afford) to it right now easily and have that piece of mind.
                sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

                Comment

                • TobyB
                  R3V Elite
                  • Oct 2011
                  • 5163

                  #9
                  Don't forget to change the rod bolts, too...

                  t
                  now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

                  Comment

                  • HennaE30
                    E30 Mastermind
                    • Apr 2014
                    • 1965

                    #10
                    And head bolts ^ or buy head studs. IE has em for like $200 or so
                    Originally posted by flyboyx
                    how about if i yank the anal beads out of your ass like i'm trying to pull start a chain saw?
                    Originally posted by Northern
                    beer is my new liver cleanse.

                    Henna - '84 Hennarot 325e
                    Lola - '89 Schwarz 325is - being saved
                    Christine - '88 Schwarz 325is - Spec E30 Racecar
                    '01 White F150 Lariat 4x4 Supercrew - Daily
                    Dad's '05 Interlagosblau M3

                    Comment

                    Working...