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Help! M20B27 Performance Upgrades?

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    Help! M20B27 Performance Upgrades?

    Looking for advise on getting more usable HP out of an ETA for crapcan racing.

    Please don't tell me to do an "i" head swap, motor swap, or forced induction.

    We want to race (and beat) the other e-30's with an ETA


    Some things we're considering.

    1a-Removing the vibration dampener and putting on a smaller diameter pulley
    1b-Increasing alt. pulley and removing every other blade on water pump

    2-Matching ports to manifolds

    3-"Cleaning up" casting seams in the in/ex ports.

    5-Windage tray?

    What we've done-

    Lightened flywheel
    Electric fan
    Weight reduction (car weighs 2,054lbs)
    Block squared to crank, deck cleaned, freeze plugs, honed
    Pistons cleaned and new rings
    Warped head machined flat (-.018")
    Lapped valves
    PS deleted
    Oil pan baffle
    Oil passages cleaned
    ETA-Chipped


    Thoughts or other ideas?

    TIA
    Last edited by squidrope; 11-10-2014, 09:58 AM.

    #2
    "i" electronics + chip
    Bigger Cam + dual valve springs
    Swap Round intakes i and seta

    If you wanna get crazy e85 but you need static cr of at least 10:1 and a standalone or remapped chip with massive injectors and fuel pump.

    Comment


      #3
      engine aside don't forget take some weight out of the car and use a shorter diff. don't remove the vibration damper even though you wont be turning a lot of rpm it has a important job to do, a lighter FW is the better option.
      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by digger View Post
        engine aside don't forget take some weight out of the car and use a shorter diff. don't remove the vibration damper even though you wont be turning a lot of rpm it has a important job to do, a lighter FW is the better option.
        Diff is 3.73 LSD 65/35
        Took ton of weight out of the car.
        FW has been lightened


        Does anyone know of a smaller vibration damper that I could adapt to fit? (I have a machine shop)

        Comment


          #5
          2k lb eta must be a blast to drive!

          i dont know much about exhaust systems and whats tried and true to work for m20's but maybe since you have a machine shop you can try and make a better exhaust system, something that actually does a decent job scavenging? and better flow than the ETA exhaust. I'm all about this idea of making the eta kick ass and take names.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Regnar75 View Post
            2k lb eta must be a blast to drive!

            i dont know much about exhaust systems and whats tried and true to work for m20's but maybe since you have a machine shop you can try and make a better exhaust system, something that actually does a decent job scavenging? and better flow than the ETA exhaust. I'm all about this idea of making the eta kick ass and take names.
            It's lots of fun to drive https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h70fFVvsBHA 50 passes in 17 minutes.

            I should look into a header for this. We're currently running stock ex. man. to cherry bomb. (no cat or res)
            Last edited by squidrope; 11-11-2014, 07:38 AM.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by squidrope View Post
              It's lots of fun to drive https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h70fFVvsBHA 50 passes in 17 minutes.

              I should look into a header for this. We're currently running stock ex. man. to cherry bomb.
              Ebay header isn't bad, I think Garagistic makes one too but I'm not sure. I have talked about the exhaust with others and it seems 2.5" is the right number, Y pipe at the header into 2.5" all the way back or do the stock I setup. If your racing I would just run a muffler no res or cat unless it's spec. Magnaflow and Vibrant both sound decent without a cat or resonator imo.
              sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Bullhead View Post
                Ebay header isn't bad, I think Garagistic makes one too but I'm not sure. I have talked about the exhaust with others and it seems 2.5" is the right number, Y pipe at the header into 2.5" all the way back or do the stock I setup. If your racing I would just run a muffler no res or cat unless it's spec. Magnaflow and Vibrant both sound decent without a cat or resonator imo.
                Just searched Ebay and found a header that fits both the b27 and b25. Will the same header work on a B25 and B27?

                The Y pipes also have 2 outlets. Is this advantageous to just running the 2 into one 2.5", or should I run 2 pipes to the muffler?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by squidrope View Post
                  Just searched Ebay and found a header that fits both the b27 and b25. Will the same header work on a B25 and B27?

                  The Y pipes also have 2 outlets. Is this advantageous to just running the 2 into one 2.5", or should I run 2 pipes to the muffler?
                  Yes.

                  That racing vid was kickass. ETA FTW.
                  Originally posted by Andy.B
                  Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
                  1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
                  ~~~~~~~~~~
                  I was born on 3/25…
                  ~~~~~~~~~~

                  Comment


                    #10


                    i was reading up in this thread and theres some cool info about things like most efficient distance of y pipe from head, info on sizings etc. if your all about shaving weight maybe you should stick with a y-pipe into a single, and maybe shave a few feet of metal off and put it out the passenger side by the tire?

                    whats your intake set up like?

                    have you done anything to try and keep the engine bay cooler?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Regnar75 View Post
                      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=322899

                      i was reading up in this thread and theres some cool info about things like most efficient distance of y pipe from head, info on sizings etc. if your all about shaving weight maybe you should stick with a y-pipe into a single, and maybe shave a few feet of metal off and put it out the passenger side by the tire?

                      whats your intake set up like?

                      have you done anything to try and keep the engine bay cooler?
                      We do run the exhaust out the passenger side in front of the rear tire.

                      Intake set up is stock.(maybe piping it to where headlight used to be?)

                      We run an air dam below the bumper and the headlight areas have plastic over them. Our engine has never come close to overheating.(except when we lost our fan belt) http://www.murileemartin.com/UG/LNHF...-IMG_6014.html

                      Aerodynamics be damned, the Arooogah Horn on the roof has to stay!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        yea i would never ever recommend removing that horn. i guess if your down to 2000lbs you have definitely thought of some of that stuff. those K1s? there comes a point when i guess you just start drilling holes in the non structural parts of the car haha.



                        BTW does your horn button say Hooter?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Regnar75 View Post
                          yea i would never ever recommend removing that horn. i guess if your down to 2000lbs you have definitely thought of some of that stuff. those K1s? there comes a point when i guess you just start drilling holes in the non structural parts of the car haha.



                          BTW does your horn button say Hooter?
                          Kosei K1's-good eye

                          The horn is labeled "Hooter"! (As is the button on our dash that operates it) :)

                          In the movie Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (our theme) Dick Van Dyke says "A couple good squeezes of the Hooter would have prevented this" to Truly Scrumptious after a near miss accident where she ends up in a pond. We had to have a hooter!
                          Last edited by squidrope; 11-11-2014, 04:04 PM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Modify the head to accept a 325i cam and dual valve springs, go to motronic 1.3 w/ chip, along with port matching to a 325i intake manifold, then of course using a 325i throttle. I would actually try running a taller diff than a 3.73, might help you reach higher speeds on the straights??
                            My Feedback

                            Comment


                              #15
                              ^as much as i love the 2.7i and variants, i think he wants to keep it almost all ETA as far as engine internals go so that he can tell people hes beating them in an ETA.


                              Originally posted by squidrope View Post
                              We want to race (and beat) the other e-30's with an ETA
                              Last edited by Regnar75; 11-12-2014, 06:44 AM. Reason: edit to add quote

                              Comment

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