Head Removal Tips?

[Bullhead]

Hey guys, under a lot of thinking and vital figuring I have decided not to do the 2.7i swap. I know it's a great upgrade but I just can't get my head around it $ wise. I could just take the head and slap it on the ole eta and be done with it, but I don't roll that way. I figured up the costs up cleaning up the 885 head (hot tank, valve job, my port work time) all the gaskets, fluids etc.. list goes on (to do it super right) and I keep coming up with around $700-900 bucks. I could do it for $300 but it leaves a lot of if's and I'm not willing to spend 2-3 days doing this (by myself) then have to fix something a couple months down the road because I skimped out. I found an m52 complete swap with ZF trans and harness for $1200 in killer shape bolt in ready so I am going to go that route I believe. Ok on to my post topic, I am going to take my old eta head off and clean it up (it's filthy) I ha to take the intake and fuel rail off to clean them up (rust in the tank hole fuel system is getting reworked) so I thought I may or may not clean it up as well (disassembly clean reassembly). Any tips or tricks I should follow? I am a decent mechanic so feel free to speak that way if you wish. Should I set the engine to tdc before taking it off etc... I took a look at the head and it seems all the internals are disassembled by pulling the 2 rocker arm rods out the front? What is the best way to disassemble the head? And before any of you chime in with hate mail just go to the next guy please, I am looking for the gearheads and nice guys to chime in here with good honest, helpful info. I also plan on putting a 325i cam in so I will need info on the size of drill bit or machine bit too use for the oiling holes. I have my flame pajamas on jic :)

[redlightpete]

So an "i" head swap is too much work, but redoing your eta head isn't?

Why don't you just clean out the fuel rail if necessary, get an eta chip, and call it a day? I don't think the "i" cam is a good setup unless you upgrade the valve springs (and valve size). At that point you're back to the "i" head.

[Bullhead]

I just double checked and no where in my above post did I say it was "too much work", I said the cost wasn't efficient to do it right. I may just do the fuel rail clean up, I was just looking for tips and such not scrutiny, but thx all the same.

[meengreene30]

You're going to run into compression issues simply putting an I head onto an E bottom end w/o swapping SETA pistons and whatnot. I used a 731 head onto an E bottom end, no compression worries or internals swap. My stroker m20 is a great combination.

[Bullhead]

You're going to run into compression issues simply putting an I head onto an E bottom end w/o swapping SETA pistons and whatnot. I used a 731 head onto an E bottom end, no compression worries or internals swap. My stroker m20 is a great combination.

The 732 head is the best way to go and keep the stock 27 bottom end no doubt. I would like to do the swap but when I compare the $ figures when doing it right, there isn't much difference $ wise between a head swap and just putting in another engine. I have found so many low mile m50 variant engines where the car was totaled that it's mind numbing. I wouldn't have a problem at all just changing the oil doing basic maintenance to a low mile engine and dropping it in if the compression was good and the engine was clean. But if I start taking an engine a part and want to do a new head etc.. then I have to do it right, which means machine work etc.. It seems some people don't count their labor either. Me personally I count that when doing something. When you got kids, a family and responsibilities (like most people) your time is precious.