Does Anybody ever solve the NO start Issue? If so Post Solution

[dudem3]

I haven't been able to solve mine yet and have tried just about everything I've read on here to fix it.

I've read all kinds of no start posts but never really see what ultimately fixes it.

Post what fixed it for you.

[Cabriolet]

yes, many times.
CLEARLY describe what is going on.

[dudem3]

Cranks, but no start, doesn't even attempt to start.
-battery and starter were checked at parts store and both are good
-both fuel pumps working, jumped and can hear them running
-have fuel at the rail
-have spark, but more of an orangish color, not blue
-checked voltage at ignition and coil in run position and both same as battery voltage.
-checked voltage at coil when cranking and it drops to around 11, same as it does on another e30 I have that starts and runs
-swapped in main and fuel pump relays from running car
-swapped in cps from running car
-made sure cps wire wasn't swapped with the other sensor
-jumped the green and green/red wires on the OBC relay wire harness
-timing belt is not broken
-checked rotor and cap and both are old. Checked ohms on rotor and it read about 1300 and haynes says should be 1000 +- 200. So planning to get another rotor and cap.
-pulled spark plugs and they're old both nothing remarkable, plan to change them
-forgot to check the fusible link on the battery cable

So, other than replacing the rotor, cap and plugs and checking the fusible link, I don't really know where to go next.

Found this attached to the fuse box, thought it was a kill switch or something at first. Under the cap are two fuses that are intact with a green and red wire coming out of it. Have no idea what this is for. I checked the voltage on both sides of each fuse in the run position and all were good/battery voltage.

[dudem3]

- swapped in a coil from a running car
- swapped in air box/maf from a running car
- pulled icv and squirted starter fluid into intake, not sure if this would even work on a fuel injected car

Also, this is the under side of the valve cover, which could indicate a blown head gasket but it's not really the yellowish color it usually is when a head gasket is blown. I would assume a blown head gasket would only cause a no start no run condition if it was bad enough to not hold compression.

[Cabriolet]

do a quick compression test. if you have no compression in more than 2 cylinders it wont really start.
do you have fuel on the spark plugs after cranking? you could have a failed DME or not have a good connection at the injector harness to the engine harness connector.

do you have an eta, 87i or 88+?

[dudem3]

It's an 87 325is. Will do the the compression test the next chance I get. Definite smell of fuel on the plugs, but will check the harness and probably do a fuel pressure tester to check that as well.

[dudem3]

I swapped in a dme from a running car as well and that didn't work either.

[Cabriolet]

have you checked your fuse-able link? i had what i believe is the same issue with a car that a guy recently brought to me. cranks and gets nothing, i cant remember if he had spark tho.
top wire. remove it and make sure you are getting >12V from it.

http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/ss326/rearended/IMG_1362.jpg

[dudem3]

Found the problem today, head gasket. From 1 to 6 I have compression of 120, 0, 0, 40, 50, 120. Checked it twice, couldn't believe that it would be totally at zero on two of them. Thanks for the help.

[Cabriolet]

0 does sound off. but if the gasket is bad enough it will be 0.
spend the money on a full refresh, pressure test, 3 angle grind and new seals and possible valves and seats if they are bad. a few extra hundred will go a long way in the life span of the rebuild. and more power.
if you have the money, redo the bottom end, rings, bearings, hone.
only use BMW headbolts or ARP studs.
only use the BMW or goetze headgasket. victor reins is cheap bc you will be replacing it. avoid at all cost.