New oil pan gasket seeping....

[BMWManiac]

I had a shop install a new gasket...problem is, I moved and can't just have them fix it.

So, can I drain the oil, drop the pan, maybe clean the area and use some RTV on the corners and then reinstall? It is wet at the rear on the passenger side.

[Som]

Every oil pan I've ever dropped (a grand total of 2) destroyed the gasket when it was removed. That said, both cases were on a motor with 6-digit odo readings.

Either way, I'm guessing you'll want a new gasket. The gasket itself is cheap anyway. Dropping the pan and cleaning the surfaces are the time consuming parts, so you might as well swap the gasket out while you're at it in case it tears when you remove the pan.

On the E36 pan I dropped, I put light RTV on just a couple corners (on the tranny side) of the gasket before reinstalling. They were around areas where the block's surface (if I remember right) naturally had an area where 2 metal parts met up and there was an obvious seam. So the RTV was intended to kinda fill the seam and not allow oil to seep out.

On the E30 pan, I was installed a crank scraper, so I had used RTV all around the block-to-scraper side, and a cork gasket on the scraper-to-pan side (since there were no seams in the scraper metal to worry about).

I don't really remember, but I'm guessing the same seam exists on the M20 that requires a dab of RTV on the rear corners. Maybe the shop missed this?

Som

[BMWManiac]

Yes, the shop installed it dry, which is why I was thinking I could probably just lower it, wipe away any excess oil, and then apply a dab of Permatex 2 or something else and reinstall....guess it is worth a try and if it doesn't work, go through the process of complete removal...

[Klug]

The first time I replaced my pan I didn't listen to the DIYs and used RTV. Bad Move. It leaked for about two years and progressively got worse. Re-did the gasket with Permatex 2 and it held SO much better. Put a dab around one side of the whole gasket and it's been working out great. Even using a plane jane cork/rubber gasket, it made a good seal.

[Mr. Tasty]

I had issues of the bolts backing out. A simple re tightening and it has been leak free for a year.

[BMWManiac]

Great, I'll check it. Since the gasket has less than 1k miles, is it worth just dropping the pan, applying Permatex #2 or another sealant, and rebolting everything back up? I guess it couldn't hurt and if it works, it works, and if it doesn't, out comes the whole shabang!?

[actletpone]

Great, I'll check it. Since the gasket has less than 1k miles, is it worth just dropping the pan, applying Permatex #2 or another sealant, and rebolting everything back up? I guess it couldn't hurt and if it works, it works, and if it doesn't, out comes the whole shabang!?

IMO it is not worth it, for the price of a new gasket just get a new one. Each to their own but I hate doing things twice, do it once do it properly. They may have over-tightened I and / or ripped it. Sounds like you might have already decided though.

The m20 sump gasket job is honestly easier than I thought it would be. Jack up car, unbolt engine mounts, jack up engine with ac pump bracket or similar, unbolt oil pan, then unbolt the oil pump and drop it into the pan, then it slides out. Might want to unbolt your gearbox mounts too, keep an eye on them. Clean oil strainer while you are there. I used cable ties through the sump bolt holes and gasket to help keep it in place during reassembly.

[Klug]

Just do it right the first time, don't reuse a gasket...regardless of the age. Once its mated, mating them together again with whatever sealant might work, but more than likely it will still leak.