Strange Coolant Temperature Sensor problem ***and overall wellness thread!

[FunkySwerve]

I just noticed it this morning so I'll check when I get home!

[FunkySwerve]

P.S. It's a manual transmission.

[FunkySwerve]

UPDATE!

So it's the output shaft seal that's leaking. Any write ups suggested?

[mikelat]

UPDATE!

So it's the output shaft seal that's leaking. Any write ups suggested?

Lotsa writeups around on that plus it gives you the opportunity to change the selector shaft seal, shifter bushings, guibo and CSB as a bonus which will solve a whole raft of niggly little things and make your car run like new all for less than $100.

[FunkySwerve]

Lotsa writeups around on that plus it gives you the opportunity to change the selector shaft seal, shifter bushings, guibo and CSB as a bonus which will solve a whole raft of niggly little things and make your car run like new all for less than $100.

What is a CSB exactly? Forgive me I'm still learning!

[FunkySwerve]

Also: My oil cooler hoses are leaking. Any way for me to uh...improvise somehow so I don't have to spend all that $$$$ on new OE's?

[mikelat]

What is a CSB exactly? Forgive me I'm still learning!

Centre support bearing. That is the thing half way down your driveshaft and chances are it has never been changed and needs a refresh.

[FunkySwerve]

Centre support bearing. That is the thing half way down your driveshaft and chances are it has never been changed and needs a refresh.

So I'm doing a mini overhaul: new spark plugs, spark plug wires and rail, distributor cap and rotor, coolant temperature sensor(mine seem to be faulty, low ohms), new o2 sensor and on top of all this sealing the output shaft seal on my tranny and topping it off.

The problem I'm running into here is that my spark plugs seem to be impossible to close the gap. I've tried pushing the tip down as firm but gentle as I can with no results. I've tried bending it with the gap adjuster on the wire gauge type but it bent the ends(perhaps because I bought it cheap from Auto Zone?). I don't want to try anything else for fear of damage the copper end or other areas house it. What should I do? P.S. They are the NGKs commonly used for E30 M20B25 engines.

Also:



This is straight from the coolant temperature sensor(on the thermo housing) on a cold engine. Is this the right resistance?

Cheers.

[jlevie]

Also: My oil cooler hoses are leaking. Any way for me to uh...improvise somehow so I don't have to spend all that $$$$ on new OE's?

The oil cooler hoses can be rebuilt by a shop that does hydraulics for considerably less than the cost of new hoses. The other option, since M20 engines don't have oil temperature problems if the engine is operating properly, is to replace the oil filter adapter with the spud used on ETA cars and dispense with the adapter, hoses, and oil cooler.

The best way to adjust the gap on plugs is to lightly tap the plug on a hard surface. If you co too far you can use a plug tool/gauge to open the gap back up.

Which sensor are you looking at? An M20B25 engine has one for the gauge and one for the DME. The sensors are pretty inexpensive. So it may make sense just to replace them with new OE/OEM parts.

[FunkySwerve]

I've tried looking up a comprehensive write up on how to do the output shaft seal and couldn't come up with anything.

There are things that I've put together just from different posts: for sure you gotta take off the exhaust and drive shaft.

I've never done that, is it just a matter of unscrewing things? What kinda MM sockets do I need?

Also I gather the output flange is really hard to take off and would require me to either use an impact gun or improvise a pulling method. Thoughts?

Anything to add?

[jlevie]

You will have to remove the heat shields, drive shaft, and exhaust. To get the output flange off you will need a MAAP torch to brake down the thread locker, a thinwall socket for the nut, a 1/2" drive braker bar & cheater, a hook type seal puller, and possibly something to place counter torque on the output flange. Reinstall the nut with nothing stronger than Blue locktite. Replace the selector shaft seal at the same time.

Just get a full set of metric sockets. Best to have both 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets & socket wrenches. I can't remember if any extensions or flex joints are needed. You may also find a need for a set of metric combination end wrenches. Most of the time the flange can be just pulled off, but sometimes a puller is needed. If you don't have any of that, it may be less expensive to have a shop do the work.

[FunkySwerve]

You will have to remove the heat shields, drive shaft, and exhaust. To get the output flange off you will need a MAAP torch to brake down the thread locker, a thinwall socket for the nut, a 1/2" drive braker bar & cheater, a hook type seal puller, and possibly something to place counter torque on the output flange. Reinstall the nut with nothing stronger than Blue locktite. Replace the selector shaft seal at the same time.

Just get a full set of metric sockets. Best to have both 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets & socket wrenches. I can't remember if any extensions or flex joints are needed. You may also find a need for a set of metric combination end wrenches. Most of the time the flange can be just pulled off, but sometimes a puller is needed. If you don't have any of that, it may be less expensive to have a shop do the work.

I have a handful of friends who are mechanics so I'm sure I can borrow some tools. What are the Torque specs for the things I'm taking apart? If there are any?

[RobDog]

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1914357-Getrag-260-5-speed-transmission-overhall-and-installation

[jlevie]

I have a handful of friends who are mechanics so I'm sure I can borrow some tools. What are the Torque specs for the things I'm taking apart? If there are any?

The torque specs are in the Bentley manual.

[FunkySwerve]

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...d-installation

Thank you kind sir!

@jlevie Just wanted a cheater version *grumbles