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Trying to source this oil leak

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    Trying to source this oil leak

    So, a week ago, I had the timing belt done along with the water pump, cam seals, etc. I also changed out the distributor cap and rotor, along with some fresh spark plugs for peace of mind.

    I noticed there was a small drip on the drain plug, and I also noticed a small collection of oil behind the drain plug on the corner of the oil pan. I'm thinking it's the oil pan gasket, but I also noticed a small pile of oil somewhere else. I believe it's on the block?

    I haven't had any real signs of my head gasket being shot. I'm not puking oil everywhere and I'm not blowing smoke on start up or acceleration. No burning oil smell either. No milkshake oil/coolant.

    These are the only pictures I could get as it's cold as fuck right now. If it helps, I'm running 10w30 full synthetic. I'm not too worried, because I have no problem just topping the oil off every once in a while, but the sooner I can figure out where it's leaking, the easier it'll be for me to fix it.

    Any speculation helps.




    "Leafeon" '92 Lagunengrun 325i Vert (Daily Driver/Project)
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=366044
    The stickers make it go faster. :nice:

    #2
    How is your power steering doing? When that starts leaking, fluid can go everywhere.
    I'm leaving puddles all over town. My car is, actually. You can make a gizmo that will pressurize your crank case with some creative plugging up of stuff and see where your 5 psi is hissing out.

    Comment


      #3
      Power steering seems fine. The fluid looks like it's getting a little low if I look at the reading. I'm not hearing any groaning noises at full lock or seeing any fluid coming out of the hoses. Fluid is a little brown, so it might need to be changed.

      This is really making me scratch my head!

      "Leafeon" '92 Lagunengrun 325i Vert (Daily Driver/Project)
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=366044
      The stickers make it go faster. :nice:

      Comment


        #4
        Was the valve cover removed recently? The gasket may have slipped on reinstallation.

        Other choices in that area would be the bitch tube O-rings and the oil pump shaft upper bearing cover, and the crankcase breather hose. I've had oil leaks from all places - although large leaks at the crankcase breather hose and the bitch tube would also likely be creating large vacuum leaks as well.

        As mentioned above, the power steering reservoir and hoses are very common leak points as well.
        101

        The E30 collection:
        1987 325es M52 - Schwarz / Taurus Red Sport (son #2's)
        1987 325is - Delphin / Black Sport (son #3's)
        1987 325i Convertible - Triple Black
        1989 325iX Coupe - Diamondschwarz / Black Comfort
        1990 325iX Coupe - Sterling Silver / Grey Sport

        1981 Fiat 124 Spider 2000 - Green / Tan
        1998 Volvo V70 GLT - White / Tan
        1998 Volvo S70 T5 manual - White / Taupe
        2001 Ford Windstar - Silver / Grey (parts hauler)
        2006 Lexus GX470 - White / Tan (tow rig)

        Comment


          #5
          As far as I'm aware, I have no vacuum leaks and the valve cover hasn't been removed in 4k miles since the PO had the valves adjusted. I'm getting a strong feeling it might be coming from the oil pan gasket.
          "Leafeon" '92 Lagunengrun 325i Vert (Daily Driver/Project)
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=366044
          The stickers make it go faster. :nice:

          Comment


            #6
            if you have leak upper top of engine it can't be oil pan gasket. Oil pan leaks results in dirty ass oil pan and tranny area.

            Esquire E30 Build (87 325i Vert)
            Ultimate Tanning Machine

            Comment


              #7
              by the way, clean the engine bay good with engine degreaser. fill the oil if its low. drive around, jack the car up, find the source.

              Esquire E30 Build (87 325i Vert)
              Ultimate Tanning Machine

              Comment


                #8
                Put in some uv dye to help you find the leaky spots.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Considering it's on the drivers side, I'd say spring loaded tube o' death. That's the only place on that side of the engine that could leak oil other than the valve cover gasket, but that generally will leak on the other side due to the engine tilt.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Check the oil pressure switch. I've seen leaking senders push oil up the housing around the sensor wire, and the leak appears on the left side of the block. But the first step should be to clean the engine, like aegul44 said.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Congrats, they usually leak oil on the exhaust side!
                      '90 zinno 325iS

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Clean first. Local truck wash place charged me $25 for a motor clean few weeks ago. Or just go to locate car wash self serve and blast away... within reason. Once clean you can get a better idea. When you park it, put some paper underneath. See what's leaking from driving and see what's leaking just sitting still.

                        Clean first!!
                        ACS S3 Build / Dinan 5 E34

                        Comment


                          #13


                          After a little curiosity and boredom, I took out my flashlight and started feeling around the block and the oil return tube. The return tube felt a tad wet and it's makes sense as to where the oil is pooling on the block. Think I might have found the culprit.
                          "Leafeon" '92 Lagunengrun 325i Vert (Daily Driver/Project)
                          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=366044
                          The stickers make it go faster. :nice:

                          Comment


                            #14
                            After only a couple thousand miles, I need to replace both the seals on mine as well....don't remember if it is possible, but can you just remove all the nuts and jiggle the manifold enough to get the tube out? Or does the manifold have to come off for the most part
                            1997 Artic Silver M3
                            CES GT4094r 651hp/615tq @ 24 psi

                            Comment


                              #15
                              If I remember correctly you have to take the manifold off to get it out. But I might be wrong since I replaced the o-ring when I had it off.
                              I think it sits quite deep in there and you wouldn't be able to remove it without pulling the manifold :/ Also, remember to zip-tie the spring. You'll thank me later =)

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