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Oh man... In over my head and could use some encouragement.

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    Oh man... In over my head and could use some encouragement.

    I bought my 91 325 vert as a first manual, first vert, first car to work on... I've never worked on cars before and want to learn.

    I set out to change my oil pan gasket recently and decided to go the more "invasive" route of removing the subframe etc to familiarize myself with the underside of my car and have a clear shot at the oil pan gasket.

    Initially I removed the driver's side control arm and most of the passenger side control arm, which I gather now may not have been necessary to completely remove... lesson learned. I encountered a stuck nut on the passenger ball joint, you know, the one that's conveniently located up and around the subframe, snug up near the exhaust? What a pain in the ass. I bought some crows foot wrenches to tackle this bolt since I read that this tool could be beneficial.

    Well, I figured that I didn't actually need to remove that bolt so I didn't try. Instead, I consulted my bentley manual to see what it said in comparison to the numerous online DIYs I have read. Hey - the bentley claims this is only a five step process! Sweet!

    1) drain the oil (check)
    2) disconnect oil level sensor
    3) remove two steering rack bolts from subframe
    4) remove transmission bell housing
    5) remove oil pan

    This made it sound soooo simple, so I decided to pick it up from where I was and reinstall the control arms later when I was done with those silly 5 steps.

    First came the oil level sensor. After I finally located it (the picture in the bentley sucks) I had to figure out how to disconnect it. The book didn't tell me so I stared at it for a while before I figured out I had to remove the air box to access it easily. Once the air box was out I could reach it, but it was covered in gunk and I couldn't see how to disconnect it, so I started cleaning it.

    I found a bolt and a nut, guys. Just sitting there. Covered in oily dirt. I have NO IDEA where they belong. I can only hope some mechanic dropped them, couldn't find them and REPLACED them. I hope I'm not just missing them from somewhere.

    I moved on and disconnected the sensor. Next up was to remove the two steering rack bolts. Got the first one out with my 15mm crows foot and an adjustable wrench, since I'm a child and don't have a grown up set of tools. Seriously, my ratchet set SKIPS 14mm, 15mm and 16mm. Why would I need those? I already have 6mm-13mm and then 17mm and 19mm! That's plenty!

    Well, on to the second steering rack bolt. My crows foot is a crappy china tool and flexed enough to round off two corners on the bolt. I stopped at this point in the hope that when I borrow an impact wrench and the proper socket I haven't completely screwed myself.

    Since I couldn't work anymore I decided to look around and think it out. Even if I disconnect this second bolt, it's not like I can move the steering rack. It's hooked up to the knuckle and the power steering pump. Why would the Bentley tell me to take the bolts off and then nothing else? Is there assumed work that I'm not picking up on? Did it skip "drain the power steering fluid, disconnect the knuckle and the power steering fluid connections"?

    I feel like I'm going to have to go back to the online DIY guides, despite the bentley being touted as an authority. At this point though, I'm tempted to say screw it to the invasive route and try to just jack up the engine and slide the pan out. I really don't have anyone to teach me in person am I'm getting very discouraged. I'm pissed that I don't have the tools I need and that the stores around me sell shit tools. Those china crows foot wrenches are pieces of crap and were the only offering from the pep boys I went to... I would have bought american or german had they been offered.

    #2
    Wait, what's yer question?
    ACS S3 Build / Dinan 5 E34

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      #3
      will you fix my car?

      I have a lot of questions, but I also wanted to vent about a very frustrating situation. The bentley seems very unclear and doesn't mirror the online DIY guides, should I just ignore the bentley in this case?

      If I am to believe the Bentley, can I move the steering rack without having to drain/completely remove it?

      I assume all bolts are important, I have no idea how to go about finding where these used to belong. Is there a list of bolt locations that I could sort by size so I could measure and then check one by one?

      preferred tool brands so I can supplement/replace my husky stuff?

      Comment


        #4
        No.

        If you are trying to lower the subframe, to replace oil pan gasket, the steering rack can move a bit with it. If you remove it, you are opening a sealed system and fluid would leak.

        For bolt location, take photos... make notes.. bag and tag them or make a cardboard cut out and arrange Holts in a similar fashion.


        There are threads about how to change oil pan gaskets.
        ACS S3 Build / Dinan 5 E34

        Comment


          #5
          Heres what you do:
          ~Put car on jack stands.
          ~Disconnect oil level sensor (instead of taking bolts off)
          ~Begin to take all oil pan bolts off. For the ones you can get to use a socket wrench to speed things up. Others youll have to use a wrench.
          ~Once all are off, loosen the bottom motor mount nuts (dont take them off)
          ~Jack up engine under AC compressor.
          ~By this time your oil pan should be all the way off and you should be able to see your oil pump.
          ~Grab a 13mm wrench and take off the oil pump bolts. Drop oil pump into oil pan. (there will be a little shaft that drives the oil pump that is connected in the crank case that is shaped like an octagon. Dont lose this piece.)
          ~Slide oil pan out from under engine.
          ~Clean gasket area of oil pan.
          ~Put high heat sealant on gasket area of oil pan.
          ~Put new gasket on. (add a little sealant on top of gasket.
          This is the hard part.
          ~While trying to keep the gasket in place slide the oil pan under engine and lay it on the subframe.
          ~Take the oil pump drive shaft (octagon shaft) and place it in the oil pump while it is in the pan.
          ~Youre going to have to fidget with this for a while until you get it, but pick the oil pump up with the shaft in it and try to find the hole that the shaft goes into on the crank case.
          Youre gonna hate your life doing this but its worth cutting the time in half. It will feel impossible but trust me it is.
          ~Once you get the oil pump drive shaft connected to the block and the oil pump start to put the bolts back on for the oil pump. Connect oil pump.
          ~After the pump is bolted up you can finally start to bolt up the oil pan.
          ~Line up all the wholes and start to bolt it up.
          ~Once oil pan is bolted up you can reconnect the oil level sender.
          ~Lower engine off jack and retighten the motor mount nuts.

          Not sure how people feel about doing it this way but it will cut your labor time in half.
          Youre trading labor time for having to fidget with the oil pump shaft. It sucks, youre gonna hate trying to get it attached. Hope this helps, have fun bud!!
          Last edited by Yungbimmer; 02-04-2016, 02:38 AM.

          Comment


            #6
            If you drop the subframe, you can let it swing back and not disconnect the steering linkage. Don't support all the weight on it, though, that's bad for it.

            You'll need to take out the control arm bushing bolts, and support the engine from coming down. Then, unbolt the motor mounts, support the subframe, unbolt it and let it down.

            How are you supporting the engine?
            cars beep boop

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              #7
              I have an engine support bar for that. I finally get to work on it again today, doesn't help my progress that I only get a few hours a week.

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                #8
                On tools.... truck brands are nice but spendy. My favorite is the 3/8 flex head ratchet with the long kinked handle by snap-on. Sockets...be sure to get 6-points. You're buying the better tools so they can fit tighter spaces and so they won'the skip a few teeth and bruise your knuckles.

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