2.7i Conversion Issues [FIXED]

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On the ETA fuel tank, are you referring to the lines/connections where the fuel sender also is? I only have 1 access door under my rear seat (on passenger side). Interestingly all connections do look good and dry. Are there any connections made on the driver's side top of the tank? This is where the fuel appears to be leaking from. Do those connections run directly from the passenger side top of fuel tank to the inline fuel pump next to the tank on the driver's side? If those hoses are just running straight from point to point, I might just replace them 1 at a time until the leak is gone.

I do have a replacement CPS. It's new; though when I had initially tried it before, the car didn't want to start. Checking the resistance on the new sensor, it read about 860 OHMs. My currently OEM one read 560 OHMs. I contacted the company that sells it and had them do a resistance check on one off the shelf; it read the same at 860 OHMs. Were there different front mounted crank sensors? Here is the link to the one I bought http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/1094...r-12141720852/ . Anyone have any experience with this particular replacement part? I see this one for sale on many parts websites I tend to frequent for this particular car.

Lastly, since I let the car sit for about 5 days untouched, I decided to crank it over and let it run. I noticed the FPR is slightly back feeding some fuel. Really only seems to do it when the car is shut off though? This could be pointing to a bad FRP and I should probably just replace it. Any brand recommendations? The Bosch one seems a little too expensive for my taste. RockAuto has one for less then half, http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....011698&jsn=359 . Any thoughts on this?

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Interestingly, I tried the new Crank Position Sensor I thought didn't work, again, and it started right up with it. New CPS is good now.

I replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator; now rocking a solid 44psi while running. Fuel does not seem to be my issue.

Still cutting at about 2500RPM. Veryvery consistently. Here is a video of my problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpbM_FXtxgU
In the video it's a little hard start cause I needed to press the pedal and open the throttle to get some air in there and it stalls when letting off. My ICV is pretty intermittent. Also, exhaust is half removed so sorry for loudness... But the focus here is when I rev it up. Holding the pedal down enough to go above 2500rpm, this is the result. It just keeps bouncing and cutting.

Any ideas? I'm running out.

[Regnar75]

Yea I was talking about the fuel line inside the tank, connecting the fuel pump to the housing, which in turn connects to those hoses on top that you're seeing. That top fatter hose just runs along the top of the tank and to the exterior fuel pump. The hose in the tank is still worth checking as it takes 5 minutes but your fuel pressure being 44 psi is good.

You said you had new wires, distributor, plug, spark plugs check these to see if they are covered in oil or soaked in fuel etc.

Did you do a timing belt and make sure the timing marks are aligned? Just a precautionary question.

So we know fuel is good at least going into the injectors. We should still see if injectors are stuck open, not firing etc.

I think if all the tune up items are new, wires going to correct cylinders and nothing is installed backwards (joke) then we should look at Air next. which I'm thinking is AFM.

Any chance you can get your hands on another AFM to try out? Although your video doesn't show cutting out like I experienced AFM cutting out, it's a logical next step.

Let me get back to this, it's really early right now.

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What's the best way to see of the injectors stop firing or are getting stuck open at that rpm?

I triple checked the timing marks and turned it by hand many times before putting it all back together, timing should be good.

I'll try and find an AFM to test with. Also going to try and find a different ECU to test with.

New discovery: The car idles fine with the Throttle Position Sensor unplugged. If I plug it in, while idling, it stalls instantly. The pins are testing correctly for open/closed positions when they should. This car is confusing me more and more.

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Well guys, I have fixed it.

Turns out I had the ICV and TPS plugs switched this whole time. I'm pretty surprised they would have exact fitting plugs next to each other. The plugs must also have 12v and ground on the same wires to even let the car start and not fry the ECU.

NOTE TO SELF: Triple check even the most basic things, like plugging in harnesses to the correct location... or your engine might not Rev above 2500rpm!

Thank you to you all for trying to help me diagnose an undiagnosable issue. Regnar75 and Andy.B, I owe both of you guys some beers :thankyou:

[Regnar75]

awesome man congrats! enjoy the 2.7i such a great motor