Bad ICV? No start issues

[iso_hi]

Yesterday my car sputtered and died while driving in the city. Tried replacing the fuel pump but still no start. Timing belt, rotor cap, distributor, spark plugs, and a bunch of other parts are new. I checked the ICV and the valve was opening and closing easily with no spring action. Plus it was vibrating and buzzing while my car was on the on position.

TL;DR - Would a bad ICV cause my E30 not to start?

[Maddog]

Did you check your fuel pump relay? Tueprn the ignition on and listen to see if your fuel pump is running.

[Seawolf]

Bad ICV wouldn't cause the car to not start, though it would idle badly.

A couple of simple low effort checks before you start pulling stuff apart:

Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and crank the engine, if you see fuel coming out of that vacuum line then the FPR has failed and your engine is flooding from unmetered fuel being directly injected into the inlet manifold.

If the FPR checks out okay.

Loosen the rubber intake elbow and fire some engine start into the intake, refit loosely refit the rubber elbow open the throttle and crank the engine. If the engine tries to start you know the problem lies in the fuel delivery or metering system.

If it doesn't then it's either ignition or engine management and further tests need to be performed to verify those systems.

[ahlem]

Check your crank position sensor

[///Mpowered]

Not sure if it helps but I think it might be your fuel pressure regulator or a clogged fuel filter. I'm just saying from past experience. Good luck!

[iso_hi]

I'm going to try the relay off my brothers car then I'll move on to fuel filter and regulator. I had just swapped the filter not long ago.

[nando]

Does it start if you open the throttle a bit?

the ICV can cause a non start, but usually it will fire but sputter and die immediately. If it still won't run with the throttle opened manually, it's probably not the ICV.

[iso_hi]

Does it start if you open the throttle a bit?

the ICV can cause a non start, but usually it will fire but sputter and die immediately. If it still won't run with the throttle opened manually, it's probably not the ICV.

It does not start with the throttle open. I also tried starting fluid and nothing. Cleaned the CPS and also no go.

Gas doesn't come out of the FPR when I crank. I also don't get any error codes with the stomp test. I had just filled up the gas tank too if that helps.

[MrBurgundy]

It does not start with the throttle open. I also tried starting fluid and nothing. Cleaned the CPS and also no go.

Gas doesn't come out of the FPR when I crank. I also don't get any error codes with the stomp test. I had just filled up the gas tank too if that helps.

Sounds like you got a fuel problem. Check that relay.

[Seawolf]

If you're not getting a startup with starting fluid then you have no spark at the plugs. The engine won't run with starting fluid but it will fire up for a few seconds.

I'd suspect the CPS has gone south or maybe the wires have chafed on something or the plug is not correctly connected - follow and inspect the CPS wire back to the plug. If all is well, test the CPS resistance:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Crank_Position_Sensor

Have you disconnected the fuel delivery line to the injection rail and cranked the engine to ensure you're getting fuel ? Though if the CPS is dead then the pump won't run.

[peterman]

pull a plug wire and put a new plug in it. Rest it on top of the valve cover and have someone check for spark while you crank the engine. Then you'll know for sure there's no spark although it seems like that has already been determined.
No spark means a bad sensor, wires or coil died.

[peterman]

pull a plug wire and put a new plug in it. Rest it on top of the valve cover and have someone check for spark while you crank the engine. Then you'll know for sure there's no spark although it seems like that has already been determined.
No spark means a bad sensor, wires or coil died.

[iso_hi]

I was moving some relays around (main, fuel, o2) and when I swapped my fuel and main relay the CEL would go away in the second key position and the ICV would also stop buzzing. The car still didn't start.

Are all three of those relays the same or do I have to specifically get a fuel pump relay, main relay, etc?

[iso_hi]

SOLVED: It was the CPS.