Coolant Temp fluctuation?

[berndt]

Mine used to move around. In my case the thermostat was completely busted (in two pieces). Replaced that, and all is well.


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[bimmerR75]

That's close enough to where your needle should be to not be concerned. Mine is rock steady a little above that and will rise closer the the halfway mark when sitting at idle for any length of time. If you only lost a little coolant you may not have a major bleed issue but being in LA chances are your temp dial is set to max cool. Turn it to full heat to make sure no air is trapped in your heater core, def check actual temps with an IR gun and do a newspaper test on your fan clutch.

Thanks, no loss of coolant since I replaced the rad temp switch. So turn it to full heat, should I do that with the bleeder screw out and reservoir cap off?

Unfortunately dont have an IR gun :/

[jeffnhiscars]

Thanks, no loss of coolant since I replaced the rad temp switch. So turn it to full heat, should I do that with the bleeder screw out and reservoir cap off?

Unfortunately dont have an IR gun :/

Warm the car up on full heat to purge the heater core and open the tstat then bleed as usual (with the reservoir cap on).

As for the IR gun go buy one :)

[LJ851]

This isn't a photo of my car, but this is exactly where the needle lies when I'm on the highway. It previously used to stay at this level, but not it slightly moves between that mark and almost the middle, then back.

That needle position would be considered 1/4, not 3/4.

With a good stock temp thermostat, the temp will hover very close to 1/2 most of the time. This is because the the thermostat opens (to start allowing cooling) just below the 1/2 mark and the fan clutch engages shortly after, about at the 1/2 mark. If a lower temp or faulty thermostat is installed, the needle will fluctuate more because the thermostat opens further (temp) away from the fan clutch. At highway speeds you have tons of cooling air regardless of the fan so the temp sits at the thermostat opening number which is probably close to the 1/4 mark shown in the picture.

This could be what is happening to your car.

[bimmerR75]

Warm the car up on full heat to purge the heater core and open the tstat then bleed as usual (with the reservoir cap on).

As for the IR gun go buy one

Thanks and will do on the IR gun!

With a good stock temp thermostat, the temp will hover very close to 1/2 most of the time. This is because the the thermostat opens (to start allowing cooling) just below the 1/2 mark and the fan clutch engages shortly after, about at the 1/2 mark. If a lower temp or faulty thermostat is installed, the needle will fluctuate more because the thermostat opens further (temp) away from the fan clutch. At highway speeds you have tons of cooling air regardless of the fan so the temp sits at the thermostat opening number which is probably close to the 1/4 mark shown in the picture.

Good to know about the hovering. As of now it hovers close to 1/2 when idling on a hotter day, but goes back and fourth between 1/4 and 1/2 (sorry for the confusion on the 3/4 aspect). Going to bleed the heater core as suggested and sounds like its fine overall.

Tried to take the cluster out last night but it seems that whomever had the car before broke off both of the "A" clips that are connected to the cluster to get it out. That being said I tried pulling it out but couldn't get it forward past the steering column. Decided to put it back in and leave it for another time as I dont feel like purchasing a new cluster if I accidently damage this one haha.

[efficient]

Tale the steering wheel off, the cluster is much easier to take out with breaking anything.

[bimmerR75]

Tale the steering wheel off, the cluster is much easier to take out with breaking anything.

Airbag steering wheel unfortunately. Not sure how to take it off.