Prior to this -
New fuel pump resistance is .9
17lb injectors
-89 Sedan 325i auto
Fuse 11 popped. Put a new in it; pops shortly after. Got it home safe and took off the back seat to check G300. Ground is perfectly fine.
Next day put fuse in, turned car on, it doesn’t pop. Drove it around the block and it’s fine. Drove around in traffic and it pops. Same thing again, put another fuse and it pops moment you turn in the car.
Checking resistance from fuse 11 socket to ground & I get the .9. Check resistance of the fuel pump & its .9. I check ground of fuel pump to g300 & it’s fine.
Here’s the interesting part.
The problem
I turn on the headlights, turn on brakes lights with a brick on the pedal. From fuse 11 to ground is 2.5-3.0 resistance & if I put the hazards it’s affected as well. Now if I put a new fuse and run the car without lights it runs good. Moment I put the lights & brake lights it pops momentarily. I check resistance right away & it’s triple what it was before. Almost 10.
Verifying the wiring
I open up the insulation for the fuel pump power wire next to fuel pump connector, when it comes back up from under the car, & where it’s next to G300 Grounding point on back seat panel. All come to .3 for resistance . But if I turn on the lights it goes up to near .9.
So I’m at a loss what to check next. I think it’s gonna be opening up the fuse box. I have my s52 sedan for reference and the resistance for fuel pump and wiring is the same. So I figured it’s the fuel pump is bad. I put my 3 year old fuel pump in and it’s the same story. Decided to post here & do errands and see what you guys have to say thanks in advance. Already have the etm for the turn signal lights & brake lights printed next to the car.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
New fuel pump resistance is .9
17lb injectors
-89 Sedan 325i auto
Fuse 11 popped. Put a new in it; pops shortly after. Got it home safe and took off the back seat to check G300. Ground is perfectly fine.
Next day put fuse in, turned car on, it doesn’t pop. Drove it around the block and it’s fine. Drove around in traffic and it pops. Same thing again, put another fuse and it pops moment you turn in the car.
Checking resistance from fuse 11 socket to ground & I get the .9. Check resistance of the fuel pump & its .9. I check ground of fuel pump to g300 & it’s fine.
Here’s the interesting part.
The problem
I turn on the headlights, turn on brakes lights with a brick on the pedal. From fuse 11 to ground is 2.5-3.0 resistance & if I put the hazards it’s affected as well. Now if I put a new fuse and run the car without lights it runs good. Moment I put the lights & brake lights it pops momentarily. I check resistance right away & it’s triple what it was before. Almost 10.
Verifying the wiring
I open up the insulation for the fuel pump power wire next to fuel pump connector, when it comes back up from under the car, & where it’s next to G300 Grounding point on back seat panel. All come to .3 for resistance . But if I turn on the lights it goes up to near .9.
So I’m at a loss what to check next. I think it’s gonna be opening up the fuse box. I have my s52 sedan for reference and the resistance for fuel pump and wiring is the same. So I figured it’s the fuel pump is bad. I put my 3 year old fuel pump in and it’s the same story. Decided to post here & do errands and see what you guys have to say thanks in advance. Already have the etm for the turn signal lights & brake lights printed next to the car.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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