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    Megasquirt information pool

    Hey everyone!

    in an effort to build a better wealth of information regarding M20 MegaSquirt setups, I'm proposing a MegaSquirt general information thread. Since we already have a pretty good thread geared towards ignition and fuel maps, I'm hoping we can fill in some of the blanks in the less covered settings and features tabs that people teaching themself to tune (like myself) may be struggling with. Common issues or uncommon issues regarding E30 specific hardware, and things of that general nature are welcomed as well.

    For the format;

    • Engine Specs:
    • Megasquirt Version:
    • Engine/Relevant Mods:
    • Turbo:
    • Boost Level:
    • Injectors:
    • Issue you've found proven solution for:
    • Issue you are currently struggling with:



    I'll kick things off!

    Engine Specs: 1989 M20B25 (Stock)
    Megasquirt Version: MSPNP (MS2/Extra)
    Engine/Relevant Mods: Cat delete, Billy Boat resonators and mufflers (off of an e34 535i exhaust system), AFM delete (using stock airbox bored out to 3" intake size), GM IAT, Innovate LC2 Wideband, Built in MAP.
    Turbo: N/A
    Boost Level:N/A
    Injectors:19lb Bosch Gen III

    Issue I've found proven solution for:

    When I first started attempting to setup the Megasquirt after initial installation, I had an issue with the car beginning to misfire above 4200RPM. It sounded like ignition cut, but with a slow roll on instead of a hard cut. After checking to make sure it had good fuel pressure and that the fueling amount was within normal range, I started looking into ignition issues that could occur and began researching dwell. Turns out the basemap provided from DIYAutotune starts you off with 3.7MS nominal dwell. After doing more research on dwell and max spark durations, I learned that for a single coil distributor setup that my max spark duration was actually much shorter than what the base maps 3.7ms Nominal Dwell provided for. I ended up changing my 'Nominal Dwell' to 2.1, and Spark Duration to 1.0ms and the misfire at high RPM's has completely disappeared.

    Issue I am currently struggling with:

    I cant seem to get a consistent idle for the life of me. I'm not sure what frequency works best with the stock IAC valve, but right now I have it set at 252hz. It idles well enough with the Open Loop setting, but I dont have nearly the same control over target idle and warmup conditions as I would like. I got it to work extremely well for a little bit, but then ran into an issue where it seemed like the ECU would lose control of the IAC and the engine would idle at 2000 - 3000 RPM. Once I turned the car off and back on again however the idle would go away. The problem was also only present between 1/4 and 2/4 marks on the temp gauge. At operating temperature it idled buttery smooth. Trying to fix the random high idle issue just led me back to a fluctuating idle again. If anybody has a screenshot of working settings idle control and closed loop idle settings, I'd be so appreciative.



    Hope you guys like the thread idea!

    #2
    I like this idea. I have really been contemplating running NA MS.

    LOTS of information here: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...-your-bmw-e30/

    These engines use a pulse width modulated (PWM) idle air control motor. A V3.57 board (or MS3X) can control this directly with no additional mods. With a V3.0 board, you will need to add our PWM idle control mod kit to control this valve. For an MS2, connect this output to the opening coil and connect the closing coil to ground through a 30 ohm 50 watt resistor. The MS3X can use the MS3X IDLE output for the closing coil
    I remember that from the page too.
    20% Accurate

    Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by LazerSquid View Post

      Issue I am currently struggling with:

      I cant seem to get a consistent idle for the life of me. I'm not sure what frequency works best with the stock IAC valve, but right now I have it set at 252hz. It idles well enough with the Open Loop setting, but I dont have nearly the same control over target idle and warmup conditions as I would like. I got it to work extremely well for a little bit, but then ran into an issue where it seemed like the ECU would lose control of the IAC and the engine would idle at 2000 - 3000 RPM. Once I turned the car off and back on again however the idle would go away. The problem was also only present between 1/4 and 2/4 marks on the temp gauge. At operating temperature it idled buttery smooth. Trying to fix the random high idle issue just led me back to a fluctuating idle again. If anybody has a screenshot of working settings idle control and closed loop idle settings, I'd be so appreciative.
      I would try decreasing the valve frequency down to the low 100's or 90's, I don't think the Bosch valve works well at 252hz. ALSO check and make sure you don't have any IAC voltage corrections on that could be skewing your valve opening value. Can you post a datalog of the issue happening?

      Engine Specs: 1989 M20B25 (Stock internals)
      Megasquirt Version: MSPNP (MS2/Extra)
      Engine/Relevant Mods: Full 3" custom exhaust, intercooler with 2.5" piping, Tial wastegate and BOV, GM IAT, Innovate LC2 Wideband, Built in MAP.
      Turbo: Holset HX35
      Boost Level:8psi
      Injectors: 30lb Bosch/Volvo injectors

      Issue I've found proven solution for:

      Stumble when revving. I knew it had something to do with Acceleration Enrichment. I would increase the TPS AE up and down while the car was running. I'd rev it up and it would still stumble/misfire no matter how much added PW I put into it. The reason it wouldn't get any better is because I wasn't hitting the "burn" button in between changes. This was a smack my head moment but it helped because it also applied to other changes I was making. Sound dumb but if your struggling with a similar situation remember to burn between changes.

      Issue I am currently struggling with:

      Closed loop idle. Once I can get into Closed loop PID it idle great. Its the initial value + dashpot settings I seem to be having a problem with. When I let off the accelerator the RPMS seem to bounce around a while before entering CL PID. I'm guessing its either a lack of tuning in higher idle areas or my CL EGO is messing with it.

      Comment


        #4
        Have you seen this section of the forum?

        Alternative Tuning / W.A.R / Megasquirt / etc
        AWD > RWD

        Comment


          #5
          Who can explain what needs wired on my e 30 Ms. Can't seem to get spark .after disturbing wiring installing new intake plenum?

          Comment

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