Oil Pump Bolt Troubles

[i6mt6]

Hi All,

M20B25 from '89. although not original engine. Taking oil pan off to put in a crank scraper and baffle. Got 2 pass side oil pump bolts off no problem. Driver side bolt is stuck and starting to round off more than i feel comfortable.

Normally, I'd hit it with a torch, but I don't think that's the best idea with all the oil coating various surfaces.

Any ideas? I couldn't manage to fit a socket/ratchet in to grip it on all 6 sides due to the pan getting in the way. Next step is vise grip, but you can't go back from that.

Is there some kind of "bolt extractor" but works like a wrench?

If anyone has beaten this problem before I'd appreciate your experience.

[36brua]

Try using a good 6 pnt socket or manual impact wrench-hit top w/ hammer or try elec impact gun -gently

[e30davie]

Maybe one of those little swivel connectors might get all the stars on the socket onto the bolt head. Those swivel connectors are rarely used but every now and then they save the day.

[skitzy777]

When I changed my oilpan gasket I had the same problem. I ended up just sticking a spanner on there and whacking the piss out of it with a big hammer, worked a charm.

[i6mt6]

Maybe one of those little swivel connectors might get all the stars on the socket onto the bolt head. Those swivel connectors are rarely used but every now and then they save the day.

I appreciate all the replies but I only have access from the side since the oil pan is still in the car stuck between the subframe and the oil pump.

What is the swivel connector you are talking about?

I'm thinking of maybe taking a chisel and tapping gently to get it it rotating.

[itsonlygeorge]

Rent an engine lift, drop the subframe and you can get the oil pan out easy.


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[kronus]

chiseling it won't accomplish anything the combination wrench isn't already doing.

you can use an extra-grabby combo wrench like these or an extractor like this

[kronus]

however, once you manage to get the oil pan off, you will have trouble getting the crank scraper and baffle lined up if you're doing it upside down with the subframe in the way. you are really making a significant amount of work for yourself, and will probably have a significantly easier time if you rent or buy an engine load bar, suspend the front of the motor, and pull the 5 bolts required to drop the subframe.

[i6mt6]

however, once you manage to get the oil pan off, you will have trouble getting the crank scraper and baffle lined up if you're doing it upside down with the subframe in the way. you are really making a significant amount of work for yourself, and will probably have a significantly easier time if you rent or buy an engine load bar, suspend the front of the motor, and pull the 5 bolts required to drop the subframe.

thanks for the tip, i'll look into it. it looks like there is a decent amount of space under there without the steering rack in, but i know what i'm getting myself into. If i start cursing too much i'll get a load bar.

also, i managed to sneak a bolt extractor in and it was just short enough for me to get clearance to put a wrench around the end of it.

thanks for the help

[SkiFree]

As the guy who used to make the baffle. I got people calling to yell at me when they (didn't read the directions) realized you need to drop the subframe to get the pan back on with the baffle in place. If you REALLY want to make it fit without dropping, then be prepared to dremel the crap out of the baffle.

[i6mt6]

Well that's handy, didn't think of that, I appreciate that tip.

I'll just add dropping the subframe to my growing list. The PO installed just about everything you can install backwards anyway, so it'll give me a chance to flip the motor mounts.

[AndrewBird]

Rather than dropping the subframe completely, just buy some extra long bolts and replace them one at a time. Then just let the subframe lower down and hang on the longer bolts. Gives you more clearance without having to drop it completely.