Motor is back in but wont start

[cat97628]

Did a compression test tonight. Obviously it was a cold test and it was dry.




1. 135
2. 115
3. 112
4. 140
5. 157
6. 110




These numbers are not great but are they to low to cause a cylinder to not fire? Car ran fine before i pulled it. it look like I will be doing the head over the winter or more likely the spring.

[iwantspeed]

look at your fuel filter
follow the feed line coming off your fuel filter
follow it towards the engine bay.


follow it to the fuel rail.
it should be directly connected to the fuel rail.
the fuel hose that attaches to the fuel pressure regulator is the return hose

[iwantspeed]

the problem with the impulse sensor wire and the crank position sensor wire.


is that in the engine wiring loom they use the exact same wire color.


the best way to tell is to unplug the computer in the glove box

grab a multimeter and set it on mode that makes a noise when you complete a circuit.


pin 47 and pin 48 are for the crank position

the third pin on the sensor is for shielding wire

stick one probe in pin 47 (at computer connector)

and the other probe touch one of the 3 pins on the crank position connector (at the sensor connector on the engine wiring loom)


try each of the 3 pins. you wont hurt anything or short circuit anything

http://www.rtsauto.com/ecu-pinout-and-electrical-tests-e30/

[cat97628]

bit of an update, parts came in today, new reman injectors, injector clamps, and a new CPS. I tested the injectors and first i was surprised to see there were 7 in the box. I the went to test them with a 9v battery and 5 of the 7 made a very audible clicking noise. I then tried to flow carb cleaner through them by attaching a bit of vacuum hose to the end of the injector while blowing on it and tapping the lead from the battery to the terminal. The 5 that clicked squirted the carb cleaner and the 2 the didn't click didn't squirt cleaner. I then tapped on the body of the 2 failed injector with a screwdriver and tested again and 1 started working. I reinstalled the new working remans, rail, power, plugs and wires. I went to install the CPS and it doesn't fit. FCPEuro sent an E34/36 part that has the wrong angle on the connector to the block. I now have to wait until tomorrow for a new one to arrive. I am getting a bit fed up with this project to say the least, but I think I should now have Spark, Fuel, Air, and Compression. So I am crossing finger tomorrow it starts and there is nothing else i am going to find after it starts running.

[cat97628]

going back over everything and starting with timing do these look correct?

[cat97628]

Installed the new CPS last night and verified it is connected correctly, still no start. I went through the ECU harness and all tests passed. I checked both the main and fuel relays and had question on both. The first question I had would be about pin 37 on the ECU harness, I show ground while the key is off and main relay installed and show 12 volt when pins 30, 87, and 87 are bridged but do not show 12v when the relay is installed with the key on. Is this my problem? I also have to bridge 30 and 87 on the fuel relay to hear the fuel pump, is this normal. When I tested the fuel hoses into a bottle the feed hose squirt fuel when I turned the key and the engine was cranking. Why do I not hear the pump when trying to start the car. I have also tested the ICV and hear it buzzing and know I have spark from the coil and the first plug. I am really at a lose here on where to go next? BTW can you screw up the install of the Rotor carrier I swear it was in a different position relative to the TDC marks before I did the timing belt and after I just took everything apart again.

[cat97628]

Yes you can screw up the rotor carrier within the cam sprocket. Somehow I have managed to install it 180 degrees off. I didn’t see the orientation pin or it shifted or whatever I wrenched it down in the wrong spot. It would never run being that far off. Throwing it all back together now and we shall see

[cat97628]

she is alive and I am an idiot.......Don't screw up where the rotor attaches inside the cam gear when doing the cam bearing seal. Now to fix a crazy fast idle 2k and climbing in park an neutral. Off to search the interwebs and most likely make a new thread. 2 weeks to get this car road worthy and I still want to do the dash and new leathers.

[tim88325is]

No man, it is cool that you stayed calm and figured it out!!

[Mpolito3355]

Yes you can screw up the rotor carrier within the cam sprocket. Somehow I have managed to install it 180 degrees off. I didn’t see the orientation pin or it shifted or whatever I wrenched it down in the wrong spot. It would never run being that far off. Throwing it all back together now and we shall see

So.... i took like a hour or two trying to figure out how you did that ..... like isnt there three holes in the shape of a "T" ? that bolt down the ignition rotor ??? what did you bolt the 3rd one to ?

i mean im glad you figured it out but jw how

[zaq123]

So.... i took like a hour or two trying to figure out how you did that ..... like isnt there three holes in the shape of a "T" ? that bolt down the ignition rotor ??? what did you bolt the 3rd one to ?

i mean im glad you figured it out but jw how

x2. there is a notch on the adapter which won't let you to install it into the gear any other but the correct way.....I mean everything is doable but this mistake would be the obvious one