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Hot tanks aren't super hot too but the issue for the shaft bearing is the chemical solution which strips everything, from carbon to paint.
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no, it's just a washer, spec says 120C is max temp. Hot tank removes paint etc. That machine wont mess up anything...
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I would be a little concerned about imbedding honing material in the soft bearing....
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Did the engine come pre-primed from the seller? If no, did you prime it? How long did it take to start after you turned the key for the very first time?...
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I'm not arguing the fact that the bearing will be ruined by hot tanking. It most definitely will , depending on the tank used of course. It looks like OP is not certain if it was even tanked in the first...Last edited by zaq123; 04-21-2025, 03:26 AM.
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A lot of agitating hot tanks are only run at 160-180F. So tanking obviously may or may not destroyed the bearing if the block was indeed hot tanked. If it was lye activated hot tank, it will destroy that...
Last edited by zaq123; 04-19-2025, 07:40 AM.
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yes, your sensor is located to read pre filter pressure right after the oil pump. Digger can tell you more but if remember correctly, intermediate shaft oiling holes are at the end of the oil gallery...
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Think of this scenario: clearance is too large which makes the shaft to sit cocked in there, against the retainer edge like against freaking lathe blade. All that tension from the timing belt is trying...
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you can't use intimidate shaft from another engine or a new shaft unless you put new bearings and cut them to match that shaft. Every m20 has that bearing pressed in and then cut to match the intermediate...
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Is that original intermediate shaft to the block? That retainer grove looks way too wide. It should be not much wider than the retainer itself? Or the shaft journal really got chewed up that bad? Was...
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all intake runners are silent.. for M20 that is.. All 6 of them. Than noise only can be heard on the booster body of the check valve..I thought ITB intake box was hitting it ar idle but I put some rubber...
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