MY MOTOR EFFING SUCKS! (long)

[Groove_D]

Was the problem ever fixed?

[jlevie]

On top of the afm, normally (if untampered with) will have a plastic cap over the top.
They are set at factory and never should be adjusted as you will never get the default setting back... Unless you go to bmw that is...

That's the air bypass for the AFM, not the throttle stop adjustment. In the absence of other problems you should never need to fiddle with the bypass adjustment. The throttle stop adjustment is on the throttle body and it may need adjustment to compensate for mechanical wear. The procedure for adjusting the throttle stop and TPS is in the Benteley manual.

[Doughnut]

this thread is long dead but anyway



where is the stop screw?

On top of the afm, normally (if untampered with) will have a plastic cap over the top.
They are set at factory and never should be adjusted as you will never get the default setting back... Unless you go to bmw that is...

[Bimmerboy91]

this thread is long dead but anyway



where is the stop screw?

[bmwcr89]

Only time the check engine light is on is when the motor craps out/cuts out. Occasionally it's on but if you rev the motor up to 4,000 or so it goes away. All the goodies check out with the volt/ohm meter.

PO said there is a temp/thermo sensor under the intake manifold? is this true? There is no stop screw.... well there is one for the throttle plate and I adjusted the throttle plate properly and reset the TPS properly, then tested it with the volt meter. I do not have an ICM or an adjustment screw on the ICV.

Thanks for all your help everyone. I finally feel like I'm starting to get somewhere.....

Did you take a look at your fuel injector harness? If you did, and you've tested it and its working properly then... its probably a vacuum leak or something else.

As far as I know... there is no tmp/thermo sensor under the intake manifold.

May be underneath the throttle body there is a Fuel tank breather valve? check if the hose is connected. Its similar to #1 on the image. You might have a different throttle body.

[NC325iC]

for the idle problem.... Adjust the stop screw!

dont do that, if the idle doesnt change when you introduce a large vacuum leak all that will do is cover the problem, quite poorly at that

[winstontj]

is that corrosion from drippy hoses?

I've heard of corroison of the main wiring harness being caused by coolant leaks at the throttle body.

winstontj, I would rule out a leaky hose just because the timing belt and water pump were replaced. Once scale builds up on the aluminum parts it makes it much more difficult for a hose to seal around a fitting. I've replaced all but one or two coolant hoses, timing belt, and water pump in the last 10k miles and I have a leak from a new hose. Its not a bad leak, I just top of the coolant with a cup or two of mix every few thousand miles.

PO has a tumbler... He's a pretty standup guy. He put all the stuff in the parts wash then in the media blaster, then tumbler, then painted the stuff.... it's all like spotless & nicer than new when he was done. I was totally shocked... I went to pick up the car and he was like "umm.... not ready yet... give me two more days..." I was so pissed for those two days but then when I picked up the car he says "I smelled fuel so we pulled the tank and replaced it, also we did a timing belt, water pump, oil change & a whole other list of things..." I was shocked...

[winstontj]

is the engine light on?? If it is... Check the code... http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/motronic.html

You might have a wiring probably on the fuel injectors harness... This is what happend to me... the harness was badly cover with green crap.... If it is the problem then change the engine harness or cut the wires yourself and solder them(this what I did)...

I went down that road where I have to check everything from the ICV, TPS, AFM, vacuum leak, and etc. Pain in the ass! But once I've learn from STUCK from Bimmerforums.com... that it might be my injector harness... Solve my problem!

for the idle problem.... Adjust the stop screw!

Only time the check engine light is on is when the motor craps out/cuts out. Occasionally it's on but if you rev the motor up to 4,000 or so it goes away. All the goodies check out with the volt/ohm meter.

PO said there is a temp/thermo sensor under the intake manifold? is this true? There is no stop screw.... well there is one for the throttle plate and I adjusted the throttle plate properly and reset the TPS properly, then tested it with the volt meter. I do not have an ICM or an adjustment screw on the ICV.

Thanks for all your help everyone. I finally feel like I'm starting to get somewhere.....

[CarsSuck]

is that corrosion from drippy hoses?

I've heard of corroison of the main wiring harness being caused by coolant leaks at the throttle body.

winstontj, I would rule out a leaky hose just because the timing belt and water pump were replaced. Once scale builds up on the aluminum parts it makes it much more difficult for a hose to seal around a fitting. I've replaced all but one or two coolant hoses, timing belt, and water pump in the last 10k miles and I have a leak from a new hose. Its not a bad leak, I just top of the coolant with a cup or two of mix every few thousand miles.

[bmwcr89]

[bmwcr89]

is the engine light on?? If it is... Check the code... http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/motronic.html

You might have a wiring probably on the fuel injectors harness... This is what happend to me... the harness was badly cover with green crap.... If it is the problem then change the engine harness or cut the wires yourself and solder them(this what I did)...

I went down that road where I have to check everything from the ICV, TPS, AFM, vacuum leak, and etc. Pain in the ass! But once I've learn from STUCK from Bimmerforums.com... that it might be my injector harness... Solve my problem!

for the idle problem.... Adjust the stop screw!

[NC325iC]

theyre rightnext to eachother on the thermostat housing

[winstontj]

the ecu uses a seperate sensor from the instrument cluster

PO did a lot of sketchy sh*t on the car electrical wise. I just grabbed my power inverter from my dad yesterday... I live in an apartment and park the car in a garage so now with the inverter I can use the soldering iron and repair some wires that have been hacked and temp repaired by me.

I'll look into both the ECU sensor and the gauge sensor. Strange they use different ones. Different locations??? I'll pull them, clean them and replace the copper rings. Those effers can really get some buildup on them.

No coolant leaks - Timing belt & water pump were just done so there could be a loose wire but no coolant leaks. Only thing leaking is oil from the filter housing.

[NC325iC]

the ecu uses a seperate sensor from the instrument cluster

[CarsSuck]

The gauge cluster temp thing flutters like crazy. I removed the cluster and tightened the back but it only got a little better.

I believe this would be from a coolant leak. My car does the same thing intermittently and I can see dried droplets of coolant on stuff under and aft of the coolant distribution thingy at the front of the head.