hmmm... thank you. I will check that. I'm leaving the country for a week and the car is going back to the PO to get some body work done (valance & IS lip painted and installed. He's a big 24v 5-series guy but he said he'll take a look. At least he has a shop and does this for a living so he has access to better equipment for diagnostics. The gauge cluster temp thing flutters like crazy. I removed the cluster and tightened the back but it only got a little better. It could be an issue because no I have not checked either but I have a feeling that there could be buildup under there.
When I pop the dipstick or the oil filler cap there is no change in idle. When I unplug the ICV there is no change in idle. This bothers me....
It's not worth it to spray the oil cap or dipstick but when I spray the sh*t (fire extinguisher right next to me) out of the entire intake there is no change. Its a real stretch but perhaps a minor change when I spray 4,5 & 6 injector seats... but not much if any change. Could this be the cat? Car runs fine when it's heated up but runs like sh*t when it's cold.
Like last night. I drove from providence to boston. Car was fine on the highway, etc. I got back, put the hazards on and left the car to idle in front of the house while we unloaded our crap. Outside temp was around 32degrees F, when I came back down 5 minutes later whatever it is had cooled back down enough (because the outside temp was cold) that it started bucking again. A short drive with the rpm's up and it goes back away... So it could be in the intake or some type of sensor that is exposed to the air but subject to warming based on operating temps outside the thermostat....
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Have you checked the coolant temperature sensor? If it is faulty it will cause poor running and you didnt mention checking it. There is a sensor for the ECU and a separate one for the gauge cluster.Leave a comment:
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I agree and that's why this is killing me!!!!
When I resealed the intake & TB gaskets I used dabs of "liquid gasket" to seal them. I replaced all the hoses, booster (vacuum tested it and it's good) to TB hoses & check valves, valve cover to TB, ICV to intake boot, all of them... they are ALL tight and when I spray the shit out of the motor with carb & choke the idle is rock solid. There are no leaks (that I can find or spray). Even when I spray the shit out of the injector seats....
I visually inspected the heated wires (both of them) as well as tested the resistance under load, static, etc. all checks out as it should per the Ford manual (Ford Heated wire MAF)... The only thing is that damm ICV which measures on the ohm meter OK.. a little high but not bad only when I unplug it the idle does not move.
I'm hoping to be able to replace it this afternoon but it's all temperature dependant and something on the intake side....Leave a comment:
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When you say intake hoses, do you mean all the hoses that connect to the intake? And have you checked for an intake leak via the brake booster, oil dipstick, or oil filler cap? The booster is easy to check, just clamp off the hose between the intake and the check valve. A quick test for the dipstick is to seal it to the tube with tape. For the filler cap, just replace it (they're cheap).
The symptoms sound exactly like an intake leak and that's where I'd start...Leave a comment:
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use a can of EFI safe carb cleaner and spray around, if your idle picks up you ahve a vac leak
make sure you spray were all youre gaskets are
if you can hear vacuum leaking then i doubt its the ecu, to my knowledge they dont just go bad if you dont mess with themLeave a comment:
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MY MOTOR EFFING SUCKS! (long)
hope that got some attention....
I have a new ICV coming in the mail today (hopefully it will arrive today) from BLUNT... Maybe that will solve the problem.
When the motor is cold it cuts out, misses, bucks, idles low and is generally fcuked up. When it warms up it gets better but not a whole lot better. These problems recently started shortly after the purchase of the car so I'm not sure if they were already there or if I may have done something to cause this. Either way it's so bad the car is barely drivable and almost dangerous because of how it cuts out and stalls.
Recently I have replaced/done: Valves, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, injectors cleaned & replaced seals, BavAuto Adj FPR, intake hoses & TB cleaned and set TPS, MAF cleaned and tested, running 91 octane fuel, new fuel filter, air filter, new 02 sensor.... possibly more.
So when the car is cold I can hear something sucking like a vaccum opening and closing and the car bucks and stalls like a mo-fo when cold. It's really bad - barely drivable. It's like something is shorting and the motor dies. You'll be pulling away from a light in first under load the the car will totally crap out and die. if you are lucky it'll keep going and power through but not always. Idle is about 500rpm. Like I said I'm going to replace my ICV today/tomorrow when it arrives but what else could this be?
I don't know these cars that well and knowing that the TPS and MAF are good as well as the intake and fuel delivery/ignition... I just can't think of anything else outside the ECU or maybe chip???
Any help would be much appreciated. I have to drive for Easter this weekend and I really want this problem solved before we leave.
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