Where to buy Metric Blues?

[mcr_driver]

So I bought a helicoil thread repair kit that came with a tap however looking up all of the DIY's and youtube video's it says to break the tang at the end how do I get it out of the hole when I do that? Sorry for a stupid question just never done this before and want to make sure I get this right.

[AndrewBird]

In a pinch, a wrench the same size as the square on the tap can also be used to turn it, or even a pair of vise grips.

[jlevie]

You don't turn a tap with a power tool, you use a tap wrench and turn it by hand. You should be able to get the tap and a wrench for less than $20. Or, which makes more sense, get the 48 piece metric thread chasing set from Sears for about $70. If you work on E30's you'll eventually use most of th epeices in the set.

Whether you use torque or torque to yield head bolts the friction of the threads will affect the clamping force on the head gasket. The torque values used assume clean, lightly oiled, threads.

[mcr_driver]

Not really an option unfortunately, I have no budget for that kind of stuff. Cus I'd need the bit and a electric/air drill which I don't have at this time.

[jlevie]

What options do I have If I don't have access to a thread chasing tap? Back to the previous idea?

Buy one. There is really no substitute.

[mcr_driver]

Could be a 20 year bump I wouldn't care if it helps me get back on the road. This was the first answer google popped up with.

What options do I have If I don't have access to a thread chasing tap? Back to the previous idea?

[jlevie]

Sorry to thread jack but this just happened to me on sunday...Was wondering if a helicoil or thread insert would work and where to get one specific for metric blues. tried looking online but i must be doing it wrong.

The usual cause of thread failure in the block is failing to chase the threads. But oil or trash in the threads can also be a problem.

It goes like:

Using a thread chasing tap (not a standard thread cutting tap), chase the threads.

Wash the threads with mineral spirits or carb cleaner and blow out the liquid with an air gun. Repeat at least once.

Coat the threads on the bolts with light oil, 3-in-1 or ATF works.

[e30trooper]

6 year bump matt?

[mcr_driver]

The thing that scares me with the (wrongly named/blind leading the blind) "Metric Blues" is them threading directly into the block. That is ALOT of force on the poor block threads. A better solution is a stud, where the threads stay stationary, and you put all of the twisting force on a high strength nut.

Sorry to thread jack but this just happened to me on sunday...Was wondering if a helicoil or thread insert would work and where to get one specific for metric blues. tried looking online but i must be doing it wrong.

[matt]

The thing that scares me with the (wrongly named/blind leading the blind) "Metric Blues" is them threading directly into the block. That is ALOT of force on the poor block threads. A better solution is a stud, where the threads stay stationary, and you put all of the twisting force on a high strength nut.

Well, yes... that's part of why all studs are better than bolts.

But for most applications, the stock bolts, when installed properly, are plenty.

I'm sorry, I don't have a source for any M20 studs. I suggest the stock bolts.

[nando]

stick to stock for now. you can always upgrade to studs when you do your turbo...

[mode]

The thing that scares me with the (wrongly named/blind leading the blind) "Metric Blues" is them threading directly into the block. That is ALOT of force on the poor block threads. A better solution is a stud, where the threads stay stationary, and you put all of the twisting force on a high strength nut.

[StereoInstaller1]

Bone stock to start, megasquirt first, then eBay turbo kit...unless I find a good deal on a log style kit like TCD or CarTech. I am aiming for 250 on the ground, so nothing extreme.

I hate stretching fasteners, but if that is the answer, I will do it.

Anyone have any experience with Metric Mechanic head bolts? They have a big write up on their site. About $120 IIRC on cost. They seem to think pretty highly of all their stuff.

It is a shame that ARP doesn't sell the M20 head studs. Those I can get at wholesale.

[matt]

I would use stock bolts. You can use 10 sets for the price of the studs, and IIRC two sets for the price of the metric blues.

BMW does a lot of things right when they build their engines... the fasteners they spec are done that way for a reason.

I'm sorry if this is coming off as attitude, I'm trying to be helpful. (OK, that first post was attitude) But anyway, I have seen plenty of motors make a lot of power on the stock headbolts, so I don't think it's an issue. I would spend the money on tuning. $200 is two hours on a dyno around here. (I am assuming you're building a turbo motor here... if your motor is NA all the more reason to stay with the stock bolts)

[StereoInstaller1]

SO Matt, you have a real deal on these studs?

I have Visa card ready, but not for $200ish.

I got a set of SBC studs from ARP for $130 3 years ago...I understand "economy of scale" but shit...triple the dollars? Fuck that. Especially on my stock-but-gonna-see-8 pounds-of-boost-someday M20.

Gimme some answers, man...not just attitude.

Luke