ETA with i cam and springs,undrivable?

[TopOfTheLine89]

well finaly got everything in order (I think) from my i cam and valvespring install and the car runs so horribly it is nearly impossible to drive. I have to keep revs about 2.5k when idling or it will stall and the throttle response is a joke. took me 5-10 stalls before i could get it out of the driveway. Is it supposed to run this crappy? Also i have a decent vac leak from where the intake boot is torn all the way through and held together by tape. Does anyone else have any expirience with this? Will my problems go away when i install the cam swap chip from mark D or convert to motronic 1.3?

Edit: If are searching for information or wondering about the topic of this thread.

The ETA with i cam and valvesprings is very drivable.Just have to make sure there are no vac leaks and everything is hooked up right.

[AndrewBird]

Um, if you have a big ass vacuum leak, that is probably your problem.

Otherwise, are you sure you got the timing correct when installing the timing belt?

[MR 325]

Replace your intake boot and correct all vacuum leaks first.

[TopOfTheLine89]

Is it supposed to be drivable? The boot is the only vacuum leak and its taped up maybe from someone on here parting out a car. I may have the alternator over tensioned. I 99% sure the timing is right, and if its off it by no more than 1 tooth.

[jlevie]

Recheck the cam timing.

[TopOfTheLine89]

Recheck the cam timing.

Would the timing on the new cam be different than the timing on the new cam?

Can't realy check timing though cause the car won't idle.

[swimstarguy]

I had a vacuum leak just like you described and I had the problems you described. I had to keep the revs up or keep it moving so it wouldn't stall. Once I fixed it the the problem went away. It will not be drivable with that kind of a vacuum leak.


~Zar4

[TopOfTheLine89]

I was running the same vac leak pre cam but it would even out once it was warmed up, ill definately check it out though maybe its bigger than i thought.

[nando]

you're running an i cam with an ECU designed for an E. what do you expect?

[TopOfTheLine89]

you're running an i cam with an ECU designed for an E. what do you expect?

Thats what i wanted to hear, i wanted to know if it was even drivable before the electronics or chip swap or if there was something wrong with the motor.

[nando]

well without the updated electronics it's completely pointless. your rev cutoff will be way before the cam's actual peak output. maybe you'll get lucky and there's a chip for this sort of thing..

[TopOfTheLine89]

well without the updated electronics it's completely pointless. your rev cutoff will be way before the cam's actual peak output. maybe you'll get lucky and there's a chip for this sort of thing..

There is, mark d makes it and im trying to get one from him.

[jlevie]

I think the car should run much better than it is. Hence the suggestion to recheck cam timing. Even only one tooth off is going to cause major problems.

[SpecM]

Hence the suggestion to recheck cam timing. Even only one tooth off is going to cause major problems.

-Yup +1. You mention before that you can't check timing cuz it wouldn't run long enough, but we're talking about CAM timing, not SPARK timing. Check that with the timing covers off and the motor at #1 TDC. Marks should line up the head AND crank pully.

-Now... replace the throttle boot first, maybe clean out you throttle body / ICV. See what happen then. Second... again about the computer, replace it with Motronic 1.1 / 1.3. Have you swaped the elecronics?

[TopOfTheLine89]

-Yup +1. You mention before that you can't check timing cuz it wouldn't run long enough, but we're talking about CAM timing, not SPARK timing. Check that with the timing covers off and the motor at #1 TDC. Marks should line up the head AND crank pully.

-Now... replace the throttle boot first, maybe clean out you throttle body / ICV. See what happen then. Second... again about the computer, replace it with Motronic 1.1 / 1.3. Have you swaped the elecronics?

I was planning on installing the mark D chip instead. Ill check that cam timing like said though. and i really need to find that intake boot. Thanks for the suggestions.

EDIT: Timing good, vac leak bad. I fixed the vac leak with duct tape until i can find an intake boot and to my surpris is runs well enough for me to drive it. It idles a little low but it does idle once it was warmed up and it pulls hard till redline. I can't wait to increase my rev limiter to 6500.