Alright guys, this is what a eta bottom end and i head gets you.
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I know it's been a while, I just tested my compression the other day cause my buddy has the same setup and wanted to compare compression numbers as he thought his was a little low. After doing the test I remembered this thread. Basically it was about 140 PSI accross.
We have already slapped the turbo on my buddies car, it pulls pretty hard.
Here is a video or his car accelerating, 15 psi on a 2.7L stroker making 330 WHP and 325 WTQ tuned by me with MS2 :D
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Mic your head before having it milled in case it's ever been off before. Mine was actually a virgin 4 bearing SETA 885 head so I had the oil holes drilled and told them 0.018"....Typical Gomer machine shop and it came back
@ 0.020". Cam timing is only 1.5 deg retarded @ 0.020" by my math so I used the stock i cam sprocket.
Here's the scary part...w/ a no wear i cam and new BMW rockers @ 0.010 valve clearance cold, piston to valve clearance was 0.055 intake and 0.070" ex. w/ the head torqued to 20 ft x lbs using a used head gasket and not a drop of carbon on the stock ETA piston tops turning the engine over by hand and checking the closest point.
DON'T SKIP A TOOTH DURING TIMING BELT INSTALL AND IF YOU RUN A CAM BIGGER THAN A STOCK i, CHECK PISTON TO VALVE CLEARANCE or enlarge the piston valve reliefs w/ the cutter that attaches to your valve that you can get from most hot rod shops.Leave a comment:
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If I read this correctly, the original poster used non-super eta pistons. For someone who already has an "I" engine (like me), but does not want aftermarket pistons, has anyone dynoed an M20 with super eta pistons, "I" head and cam, eta or turbo crank, M30 AFM, adj FPR and M50 injectors?Leave a comment:
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Nice
Good luck with your build, good to know this information may have helped you make the decision. Driveability wise you retain the low end torque the eta had stock so you won't be missing anything really. I drove around with the 2.79 rear for a while and it was still pretty driveable, just not ideal.
We should call this the "ghetto stroker" lolLast edited by Aveman; 11-01-2007, 10:19 AM.Leave a comment:
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Hey can you provide details of how much you had to take off the head? Did you do an adjustable cam gear to compensate for the timing being retarted from taking so much off the head?This combo really works well if you mill the head a little and run all the i parts. It makes just as much tq @ 2400 rpms as most stock i's make @ their peak. My 885 head ended up @ 38.5cc and has 180 psi cranking compression w/ 9.0:1 US ETA bottom end @ 200K miles. Best pull below 152HP / 164 TQ. Make sure the dyno you use has a properly functioning weather station.
Good numbers!Leave a comment:
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I think I'm gonna have to do this same "ghetto rebuild." I actually have an I head that's been machined and everything sitting in my garage. Now that I know what this thing can do I am planning on getting it put on my engine soon.Leave a comment:
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This combo really works well if you mill the head a little and run all the i parts. It makes just as much tq @ 2400 rpms as most stock i's make @ their peak. My 885 head ended up @ 38.5cc and has 180 psi cranking compression w/ 9.0:1 US ETA bottom end @ 200K miles. Best pull below 152HP / 164 TQ. Make sure the dyno you use has a properly functioning weather station.Leave a comment:
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i'd be interested in the compression test results if you get around to it.Leave a comment:
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So, hey man...thanks for posting your dyno sheets. I am sure your car would run away from my poor old M20B25.
Did you ever post the story of your motor build? Did you do a full build, or is this a "Ghetto Rebuild"?(like I plan on). What have you done to your block? Did you go MLS on the headgasket (as you plan on boosting, obviously), what head bolts, valve springs, etc?
Thanks, man.
Luke
No I never posted anything on rebuilding the motor. Well even though it was a full rebuild I guess you could call it a "Ghetto Rebuild" lol. Cleaned the block with electrolysis, boiled the pistons clean on BBQ with a metal pale and Tide. The diesel crank was mint so didn't have to do anything there. New standard rod and main bearings, new timing belt with tensioner and water pump. Standard size rings, honed the cylinders with a stone tool. Checked the clearances against the bently manual with plastigauge. All new main and rod bolts. Got the coolant channels welded on the head and had it resurfaced. Running metric blue equivalent 12.9 grade head bolts torqued to 80 ft-lbs with a stock head gasket. Cost me over $500 CAD.
Here is a picture when I just finished bolting it back together.
Last edited by Aveman; 10-28-2007, 11:02 PM.Leave a comment:
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So, hey man...thanks for posting your dyno sheets. I am sure your car would run away from my poor old M20B25.
Did you ever post the story of your motor build? Did you do a full build, or is this a "Ghetto Rebuild"?(like I plan on). What have you done to your block? Did you go MLS on the headgasket (as you plan on boosting, obviously), what head bolts, valve springs, etc?
Thanks, man.
LukeLeave a comment:
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Well if someone had a 325i and just threw in a eta bottom end to run n/a they'd be a moron, but as you said great for boost. For eta guys that are sick of being passed by Dodge Caravans this is a pretty simply upgrade.
I had to run my car n/a for a while and expected it to be slow as fuck, I was kind of surprised by how it pulled once the Megasquirt was sorted out. My buddy that had a stock 325i said it felt faster and that drove me to dyno it just to see. I'll do a compression test and post up what the numbers are if anyone is interested.Leave a comment:
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Basicly stock 325i HP, with a smidgen more TQ.
A well maintained stock 325i will put down 139rwhp and 133rwtq on a Dynojet.Leave a comment:

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