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    Having problems pulling engine + tranny at once

    Hey all,
    I'm trying to pull an engine & tranny in one piece from a doner car. I have NO idea what the heck is going on... here's a summary of what i've done for prep work:

    1 ) Removed ALL accessories (ac, alt, ps)
    2 ) Removed cooling/radiator/hoses/heater hoses/etc
    3 ) Removed all electrical connections
    4 ) Removed exhaust manifolds/headpipe
    5 ) Detached tranny from driveshaft as well as shift linkage
    6 ) Unhooked slave cylinder line
    7 ) Anything associated with the throttle body/throttle cables
    8 ) Removed front crank pulley

    I've got an engine lift, load leveler, lots of chain/hooks/etc. I put a hook on the front mount, and another hook on the rear mount near the starter. When I start pulling the engine out, it comes up all at once instead of just the front.

    Do I need to remove the front crossmember or swaybar?

    I tried doing a quick search, but couldn't find anything. If you've got a writeup you can point me to, i'd be more than happy to read it. Thanks!
    Last edited by mspiegle; 11-04-2007, 11:22 AM. Reason: edits
    Michael Spiegle

    '01 Ford Escape / Daily Driver
    '99 M3 / Track Car
    '87 325is bronzit / wtf car
    '06 Daytona Triumph 675 / Daily Rider

    #2
    Put the load leveler on it. Angle the front up a LOT. Move forward, angle up, move forward, angle up, etc. Youll get it.
    RIP e30 (brilliantrot '91 325i) 11/17/06 Byebye: 8/21/07
    Welcome e30 (brilliantrot '90 325is) 12/23/06
    DaveCN = Old Man
    My signature picture was taken by ME! Not by anyone else!



    Originally posted by george graves
    If people keep quoting me in their sig, I'm going to burn this motherfucker down.

    Comment


      #3
      ^ yes either that or for more clearence and simplicity just put the hook on the on the strap directly . No leveler .

      Will angle straight up and come out like a champ .
      I've pulled dozens of M20 with trannies this way and the only tight spot is the power steering pump pulley to the core support .

      E30 M3 / E30 325is / E34 525iT / E34 535i

      Comment


        #4
        Interesting...

        Alright, I'll need to try this again. Do you guys normally take out the swaybar?

        Thought: I just realized I didn't take the bump-bracket thing (supports the transmission's forward movment against the crossmember), and that might be hitting something.

        Thanks guys!
        Michael Spiegle

        '01 Ford Escape / Daily Driver
        '99 M3 / Track Car
        '87 325is bronzit / wtf car
        '06 Daytona Triumph 675 / Daily Rider

        Comment


          #5
          I always use the front hook only for a motor and tranny pull. If it's an auto you may have to disconnect the swaybar to get some more room.
          BimmerHeads
          Classic BMW Specialists
          Santa Clarita, CA

          www.BimmerHeads.com

          Comment


            #6
            You didn't say you did, so I'm going to ask. You disconnected the motor mounts and the tranny mounts, right? :)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by MR 325 View Post
              I always use the front hook only for a motor and tranny pull. If it's an auto you may have to disconnect the swaybar to get some more room.

              Seriously?! Entire thing from just that front hook? I thought about doing that, just seemed kinda.... dangerous.
              Michael Spiegle

              '01 Ford Escape / Daily Driver
              '99 M3 / Track Car
              '87 325is bronzit / wtf car
              '06 Daytona Triumph 675 / Daily Rider

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View Post
                You didn't say you did, so I'm going to ask. You disconnected the motor mounts and the tranny mounts, right? :)
                That I did :)

                However, you reminded me that I forgot to undo the reverse light stuff. I'll be taking another whack at it this weekend.
                Michael Spiegle

                '01 Ford Escape / Daily Driver
                '99 M3 / Track Car
                '87 325is bronzit / wtf car
                '06 Daytona Triumph 675 / Daily Rider

                Comment


                  #9
                  when i pulled mine i had a chain from the rear to the front and hooked the hoist up very close to the front

                  i also forgot to unbolt the slave cylinder hose...
                  Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                  Originally posted by TimKninja
                  Im more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I forgot the engine shock on my m10.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      ditto on the front hanger only. I was skeptical when Teaguer recommended this during my engine swap but it worked like a champ.

                      The only thing to watch out for are the PS pump hoses haniging on the engine mnt and the power steering pump pulley unless you disconnect that and leave it in.

                      ALso when putting the engine back in this way watch out for the rear engine coolant port on the head and the firewall. DOnt crush it or break it.
                      sigpic
                      - 0.05s and 0.1s FTW!!!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        i just pulled my m20 last week. it was my 4th m20 pull. this is how i did it every time.

                        1. disconnect everything, also remove the shift lever.
                        2. jack up front of car only, and place jack stands under frame rails.
                        3. connect chain to front and rear of engine, load bias towards the front
                        4. start jacking up the motor enough to get it off the mounts
                        5. yank the hoist forwards to dis-lodge the motor, get front of engine almost touching rad support.
                        6. jack up car from subframe, remove jack stands, now slowly lower the car, and watch as the engine removes itself from the engine bay.
                        7. jack up engine as high as it will go, level it out, and voila, yer done.
                        8. smoke ciggerette, drink beer of choice.

                        NOTE: insert massive yanking on motor/hoist where needed, inser curse words wherever appropriate.
                        PS: i have pulled the motor from that weak looking think hanger before no problem, but this time, it bent on me, so im back to using the rear also.
                        IG: @Baye30

                        FRONT VALENCE IS ZENDER!!! STOP FILLING MY PM BOX PPL!!!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Awesome feedback! Thanks guys. I'm about to take another stab at it in an hour.
                          Michael Spiegle

                          '01 Ford Escape / Daily Driver
                          '99 M3 / Track Car
                          '87 325is bronzit / wtf car
                          '06 Daytona Triumph 675 / Daily Rider

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Success!!!!!!

                            So I think a combination of removing the crash-stop thing on the bottom of the transmission and using a jack to help it clear the front subframe is what ended up finishing the job. You guys are right... using JUST that front hook is a good way to get it started. As I got the whole thing up, I had problems clearing it over the front of the car but my lovely assistant helped pull the hoist back as I lifted the transmission over it.

                            Following are a few pix of removing the engine and a few gooberish pix of myself. I also bought an engine stand so I could do some work on the engine while it was out. It was well under $100 from the local auto parts store and decently does the job. There are 4 arms that you position and bolt to the engine, however I was only able to get 3 attached. If any of you ever buy an engine stand, make sure it has a huge amount of adjustment. You can kinda see it in the last picture.







                            Michael Spiegle

                            '01 Ford Escape / Daily Driver
                            '99 M3 / Track Car
                            '87 325is bronzit / wtf car
                            '06 Daytona Triumph 675 / Daily Rider

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by NC325iC View Post
                              i also forgot to unbolt the slave cylinder hose...
                              I swear I've done the same thing almost every time, lol.
                              BimmerHeads
                              Classic BMW Specialists
                              Santa Clarita, CA

                              www.BimmerHeads.com

                              Comment

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