In the very early stages of collecting parts for this. I have a stock 88 325 super eta, so my question is do I need to collect parts for 88+ or can I get an i manifold, ecu, etc from a pre 88?
Thanks in advance!
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
1.3 Motronic Up-Grade & 2.7i How To
Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
-
Originally posted by lateracer View PostI've got a 06/86 e (Motronic 1.0 system) that I'm doing a 1.3 upgrade on. I'm ready to swap out the harness and the 1.3 harness fits right on to my stock c101 connector. I know when people had the older square connector some wire splicing needed to be done, but I'm not sure about this.
Do I need to move some wires around or can I just plug the 1.3 harness into the 1.0 connector and go?
I took a photo and there are clearly some pins on the 1.3 side that won't be connected to anything on the 1.0 side.
I think the answer to my question is "Yes" but I'm not sure if I've read about systems getting fried from just plugging and playing. Wanted to be sure before I reconnect the battery.
Does something need to be spliced in here to get it to run? I feel fairly confident everything is connected correctly, but don't know what I am missing. When I turn the key I don't hear the fuel transfer pump, when I jump the fuel relay it fires right up, so pump is good, checked the relays - good, starter engages and engine turns over but it doesn't fire up. I've tried swapping the crank ps and halifax ignition sensor connectors, same results. There are a few wires near the ECU connector that I have no idea what they go to. One brown (should be a ground?) and the other blue/red. Anyone have an idea what these are for?
If anyone who has done the e to i swap and encountered similar issues I'd really appreciate a point in the right direction. I'm so close!
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by MrWolf View PostSwanny can you clarify. I have a '86 325es, building a 2.7i using a harness from a '87 325i convertible (i think - not positive though). Build is complete but wont start and I'm thinking it has to do with the C101 pins not matching. 12 pins on the harness, 11 pins on the fuse box side.
How can you identify if the injectors are opening? I'm using 19# yellow tops that I refurbished myself, they worked fine when checked with a 9v battery prior to install.
I think my big problem is fuel delivery. My fuel transfer pump runs when jumped, but not with the relay in and the key turned. Relays are good when checked with a 9v, and all the relay terminals checked good with a voltmeter against the Bentley manual. I'm thinking it has to do with the C101 pins. Those electrical diagrams you posted are completely Greek to me. Hoping you can shed some light.
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by Swanny View PostWhich harness do you have and what ECU? Its possible with the late harness the injector connection has corrosion causing firing issues. Are you sure fuel is getting into and through the rail?
I had to jump a relay to get my fuel flowing properly in my 87is. Took time with the ETM chasing down wires to get it all sorted out since they're a weird in between model.
Swanny can you clarify. I have a '86 325es, building a 2.7i using a harness from a '87 325i convertible (i think - not positive though). Build is complete but wont start and I'm thinking it has to do with the C101 pins not matching. 12 pins on the harness, 11 pins on the fuse box side.
How can you identify if the injectors are opening? I'm using 19# yellow tops that I refurbished myself, they worked fine when checked with a 9v battery prior to install.
I think my big problem is fuel delivery. My fuel transfer pump runs when jumped, but not with the relay in and the key turned. Relays are good when checked with a 9v, and all the relay terminals checked good with a voltmeter against the Bentley manual. I'm thinking it has to do with the C101 pins. Those electrical diagrams you posted are completely Greek to me. Hoping you can shed some light.
Leave a comment:
-
Some issues with the tach and fuel eco gauge. The body harness is going to be missing all the OBC stuff and a few other connectors on the body side are going to be different. Its been a minute since I’ve had to comb through the eta stuff so i’ll keep an eye out and see what else I can find. Please tell me you have your own copy of the ETM though as its much easier to flip and compare.
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by Swanny View PostWhat year is the shell?
87 eta shell
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by RichiesE30 View PostSo I have a 87 I harness, is it completely plug and play? From what I've been reading it sounds like I'll still have to change the c101 connector wiring. Should I just cut the old plug off my eta harness and wire it to my new "I" harness? Thanks in advance.
What year is the shell?
Leave a comment:
-
So I have a 87 I harness, is it completely plug and play? From what I've been reading it sounds like I'll still have to change the c101 connector wiring. Should I just cut the old plug off my eta harness and wire it to my new "I" harness? Thanks in advance.
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by Swanny View PostIn this thread digger touches on some good points
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=304600
I am liking the 2.8L M52 more and more since I have all of the expensive parts and just need the crankshaft and spacer.
However, I have a follow up question too... instead of getting an IE 272 regrind or a Bimmerheads 274 regrind, if I run the stock cam will that yield the most low-end torque? Or should I at least aim for a 270 to make the most of it?
I stumbled upon the 2.8 article on E30wiki and it is pretty great.
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by Bulldog View PostIt's 88 harness and I'v checked every connection cleaned and used tons of eletric grease.....running a 173 dme
Get the ETM for 87 and 88 and go side by side. Probe test with a multimeter to be sure you have power where you need it.
Leave a comment:
-
In this thread digger touches on some good points
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by Swanny View Posthttp://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=193894 is another good thread for piston rod crank combos
Why does the "default" stroker build use SETA pistons?
There appears to be a lot of conflicting advice between Strictly ETA and E30Zone, especially with the results of using 325e pistons with the 325i head...
I also like the idea of using the M52 crank with my 325i pistons which yields a 2.8L stroker, and the M52 crank can be found readily for under $100 and the price of a crank spacer. (Oh lawdy, just saw the price for the MM crank spacer... $200. Anyone selling one?!) Someone lists that combination as 9.3:1 without decking the block, 9.7:1 with the decking... so again I'm still in the same CR range of just swapping the 885 head onto the stock ETA block BUT I get to 2.8L.
Would decking the block 0.5mm require an adjustable cam gear? Or can I get away with it since I want to go to MSPNP and can adjust my ignition tables that way? It appears that I would need one.Last edited by LovelessAndroid; 04-09-2017, 08:22 AM.
Leave a comment:
-
It's 88 harness and I'v checked every connection cleaned and used tons of eletric grease.....running a 173 dme
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by Bulldog View PostOk....I made it to page 12....so I'm just going to ask....what I got is a 87 325e chassis just dropped in a 88 m20b25 with harness....getting spark and fuel pressure....but injectors won't open....everything checks out ....but what about cp101 plug is there any pins that need swapped around ?
Which harness do you have and what ECU? Its possible with the late harness the injector connection has corrosion causing firing issues. Are you sure fuel is getting into and through the rail?
I had to jump a relay to get my fuel flowing properly in my 87is. Took time with the ETM chasing down wires to get it all sorted out since they're a weird in between model.
Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: