1.3 Motronic Up-Grade & 2.7i How To

[herschelcv]

Hi ForcedFirebird, thank you for your reply. I just wanted a second opinion before I button up my dashboard. Thank you!

[ForcedFirebird]

Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me with the below C101 pin#14 and pin#15 questions. I just finished replacing 87' 325e auto with 88' 325i manual and Motronic 1.3. The car came with 89' 325i cluster. So far, I finished connecting two wires (econometer and tachometer) from C104 connector to the 88 325i ECU (Motronic 1.3), disconnected pin#20 at C101, and wired the auto to manual reverse.

1) C101 pin#14 (speed signal out to ECU) - How do I wire the vehicle speed input from the cluster to the ECU? My car, although it has an 89' 325i cluster, there is no wire coming out of C2 pin#10(white plug) and to the C101 chassis side pin#14. Because of the 325e chassis, C101 chassis side pin#14 is not used so no signal going to the ECU. Currently, the vehicle speed output wire (C3 pin#26, BR/RD) from the cluster goes to the OBC/multifunction clock. I am wondering if I can simply splice C3 pin#26 wire from the cluster to the ECU pin#29 directly. I read from this forum that you have to get econometer and tachometer wired to the ECU, which I have done, but there is no clear write-up regarding vehicle speed input from cluster to the ECU. I have reviewed ETM for 87, 88, and 89. For 88/89 325i, C2 Pin#10 (89' ETM 1360-8) goes to the C101 chassis side and then from C101 pin#14 to ECU pin#29. Does that mean I need to add a new wire at C2 pin#10 and bring it to the fuse box and then to the C101 Chassis side?


2) C101 pin#15 (unloader relay) - Do I need to bring the C1 pin#1 (blug plug) wire from the cluster to the C101 chassis side? Is this critical? 325e C101 chassis side pin#15 is not used so there is no signal currently going to the ECU.

Thank you for your time.






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I feel you are over-complicating things. If you have a round plug on your car and round plug on your harness, the only wires you need to worry about are the c104 and pin 20 in c101. Everything else is plug and play.
Here's a block diagrams:

http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/19...g%20Manual.pdf

http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/19...g%20Manual.pdf

[herschelcv]

Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me with the below C101 pin#14 and pin#15 questions. I just finished replacing 87' 325e auto with 88' 325i manual and Motronic 1.3. The car came with 89' 325i cluster. So far, I finished connecting two wires (econometer and tachometer) from C104 connector to the 88 325i ECU (Motronic 1.3), disconnected pin#20 at C101, and wired the auto to manual reverse.

1) C101 pin#14 (speed signal out to ECU) - How do I wire the vehicle speed input from the cluster to the ECU? My car, although it has an 89' 325i cluster, there is no wire coming out of C2 pin#10(white plug) and to the C101 chassis side pin#14. Because of the 325e chassis, C101 chassis side pin#14 is not used so no signal going to the ECU. Currently, the vehicle speed output wire (C3 pin#26, BR/RD) from the cluster goes to the OBC/multifunction clock. I am wondering if I can simply splice C3 pin#26 wire from the cluster to the ECU pin#29 directly. I read from this forum that you have to get econometer and tachometer wired to the ECU, which I have done, but there is no clear write-up regarding vehicle speed input from cluster to the ECU. I have reviewed ETM for 87, 88, and 89. For 88/89 325i, C2 Pin#10 (89' ETM 1360-8) goes to the C101 chassis side and then from C101 pin#14 to ECU pin#29. Does that mean I need to add a new wire at C2 pin#10 and bring it to the fuse box and then to the C101 Chassis side?


2) C101 pin#15 (unloader relay) - Do I need to bring the C1 pin#1 (blug plug) wire from the cluster to the C101 chassis side? Is this critical? 325e C101 chassis side pin#15 is not used so there is no signal currently going to the ECU.

Thank you for your time.






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[ForcedFirebird]

Should work fine as long as you have good contact. The one I use is in the last pic in your post.

[ASEHugo]

There's a 6mm threaded hole in the battery tray, worked for me.

I ended up settling on this, using the underside of the rear coolant overflow tank mount. I wire wheeled and cleaned the bottom surface down to bare metal, mounted the cable to the bracket as usual, and flipped it over to mount it.

Not sure why one of the pics is upside down, they were meh anyways but I hope they convey what my idea was. Thoughts?

[ForcedFirebird]

There's a 6mm threaded hole in the battery tray, worked for me.

[ASEHugo]

I’m almost done with my 2.7i build in my early model ‘86 325es, but I was curious where you guys put the ground cables that usually live on the top of the passenger strut tower? Early models don’t have the stud, so what do you guys do to overcome that?
Thanks!

[Camper Van Someren]

My car came with a spare fuel rail and injectors with part# 0280150941. These appear to be Ford injectors - 14.3ohm resistance, 14lb flow rate.

I have heard of people using Ford injectors with the 325i but when I search this part # on E30 websites I get nothing.

Would these be ok to use with the 325i ecu?

[nando]

It's an Air Flow Meter. it's basically a metal flap with a spring and a potentiometer in a box that converts how far the door is open to an air flow value. it can't measure mass, or pressure, so it's not a MAF or a MAP - but it's not surprising that those descriptions are wrong because people don't know how it works. lots of 1980's cars that had Bosch fuel injection use the AFM (Porsche, VW, etc).

It was never called a "module" in the past, although maybe some people are calling it that now.

[Camper Van Someren]

the eta doesn't have a toothed wheel on the front hub, that's a pretty obvious giveaway.

I'd just disconnect the front CPS if it's not needed.

E30s don't have a MAF sensor. You need the AFM that matches the proper version of motronic - the one for an Eta will not work with Motronic 1.3.

Thanks Nando!

1) I know it currently has the eta harmonic balancer (non-toothed - that is easy) but the prior owner mixed and matched other pulleys and I’m wondering about the actual pulley on the crankshaft and water pump. I have read that these have different diameters - does anybody know the exact dimensions, or any identifying marks, so I can see whether I have the pulleys from the i or eta?

2) I hope that (redundant) front CPS isn’t needed, but has anybody run an eta motor without one?
Edit - found on bimmerforums: “An additional TDC sensor is located on the front of the crank for diagnostic purposes and is not used by the computer.”

3) I’m trying to figure out what the AFM looks like and where it is located so I can pull it in a junkyard. It’s probably just different terminology, but when I searched realoem there was nothing called an Air Fuel Module or anything close. There was a Volume Air Flow Sensor. Ditto when I google AFM, I keep getting MAF or something similar:
Edit: more info from e30zone re: AFM vs MAF. They say the AFM stands for Air Flow Meter. Is this the same as the Air Fuel Module mentioned in post 1 of this thread?

[nando]

the eta doesn't have a toothed wheel on the front hub, that's a pretty obvious giveaway.

I'd just disconnect the front CPS if it's not needed.

E30s don't have a MAF sensor. You need the AFM that matches the proper version of motronic - the one for an Eta will not work with Motronic 1.3.

[Camper Van Someren]

Long story short, I just bought a car with an i motor, but the previous motor added a bunch of eta pulleys and sensors and stuff so he could run an eta ecu. More info here if you’re curious: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...ter-pump-issue

I have a few questions about converting it back to an i ecu. I read all 500 posts, plus used the search feature, couldn’t find answers to these:

1) Is there any way to tell the i and eta pump and crank pulleys apart so I know which type is currently on the car?

2) I’m currently doing a timing belt and when I put it back together, I’d like to put an i harmonic balancer and crank pulley on it but continue running it with an eta ecu for a while. Problem is my car already has a CPS there that was reading the non-toothed balancer. I know the primary cps reads the flywheel - the manual says this one on the front is for diagnostics only. Question is, can I put the i balancer on and either leave the diagnostic CPS or just disconnect it? Will that affect the way it runs?

3) noob question: I’ve read on here that one i part I’ll need to switch is the “air fuel module” but I’m not familiar with this. The more I read, it seems that the AFM is just the black box on top of the MAF sensor and these parts are swapped together. Is this true?

[ForcedFirebird]

The M1.3 actually has a memory that uses LTFT, so don't disconnect power to it or it will run worse until the ECU re-learns that it has way oversized injectors.

In the interim, you could always use the ETA 2.5 bar fuel regulator. That will bring the effective fuel delivery down to 17lb - closer to stock, and will make the ECU much happier. Right now it's trying to correct 26% of injector difference, the 2.5bar regulator will bring that closer to ~17%.

[jeffnhiscars]

I picked up the fresh 19s when I was gathering parts and planned to throw in a chip once I got her sorted. Ive been idling quite a bit while working on the AC so suspect that may have triggered the 1221. Does the code clear itself after x amount of time or do I need to reset the ecu and see if it comes back ?

[ForcedFirebird]

Could be. 1221 is for oxygen sensor out of range, or relay fault. Might go away once the ECU trims the fuel, but honestly there's no reason to use 19lb - specially with ca stock chip. I've been able to get 180+whp with the stock 14lb injectors and FPR...