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1.3 Motronic Up-Grade & 2.7i How To

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    The M1.3 actually has a memory that uses LTFT, so don't disconnect power to it or it will run worse until the ECU re-learns that it has way oversized injectors.

    In the interim, you could always use the ETA 2.5 bar fuel regulator. That will bring the effective fuel delivery down to 17lb - closer to stock, and will make the ECU much happier. Right now it's trying to correct 26% of injector difference, the 2.5bar regulator will bring that closer to ~17%.

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  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    I picked up the fresh 19s when I was gathering parts and planned to throw in a chip once I got her sorted. Ive been idling quite a bit while working on the AC so suspect that may have triggered the 1221. Does the code clear itself after x amount of time or do I need to reset the ecu and see if it comes back ?

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Could be. 1221 is for oxygen sensor out of range, or relay fault. Might go away once the ECU trims the fuel, but honestly there's no reason to use 19lb - specially with ca stock chip. I've been able to get 180+whp with the stock 14lb injectors and FPR...

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  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    Ive got a 1221 code which I believe to be caused by the 19lb 4 pintle injectors and a stock 525 ecu (since everythjing else is new). Is that something the ecu will learn or should I be thinking chip ?

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  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    There you have it

    thanks John

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
    Again, I did not have to splice those 2 wires (or any for that matter) to get my tach and fuel gauges to work. I wish I could confirm the donor year for my harness but obviously there's an exception to the splicing requirement. I do not have a separate injector harness if that helps narrow it down.
    1987-only 325i (non-vert) donor engine harness would be a direct plug and play (edit: PnP on late 84 and up cars, earlier ones had the square c101) - that was the first year US got the 325i and the harness carried over. In 1988 when the coolant expansion tank moved etc, the engine harnesses changed. With your harness having the intergrated injector plugs, I would gather it's an 87 harness. The vert models are a little screwy since the chassis were sent out to be converted and were always a "year older" than the others. That's why you could get a 1992 vert in the e30 platform, but the e36 was a 2 and 4 doors - also why the verts kept the metal bumpers longer etc.
    Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 08-08-2019, 09:58 AM.

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  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    Again, I did not have to splice those 2 wires (or any for that matter) to get my tach and fuel gauges to work. I wish I could confirm the donor year for my harness but obviously there's an exception to the splicing requirement. I do not have a separate injector harness if that helps narrow it down.

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Two 1 pin white connectors (brown and red wires) is your glove box light.

    Flat 3 pin mini-spade connector, green is OBC drive away protection (ignition coil power lead), black is tech (which went through c101 on later cars), yellow is fuel economy gauge. If you want the fuel and tach to work, you will need to splice those wires into the harness bundle, or run wires to the c101.

    The two black/white roundish plug 3 pin connectors that are clipped together are obsolete in the case of a swap.

    One final thing to check is pin #20 in the c101 connector. If the chassis side is open, any engine harness can go in your chassis, peel the rubber boot off the back to see wires and if you have brown on one side and a color on the other, you will need to pull one side as early cars u8sed that for a ground, then some years it's missing, others it's a power. If yours mismatches and you turn the key, the body harness will start melting under your steering column.

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  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    The car is buttoned up so I can't double check but that 3 wire connector goes to the cluster. Strictlyeta says you have tp jump 2 of those wires for the tach and econom gauge to function but ours was plug n play with zero splices.

    ill add that on th first attempt to start I had no spark or fuel which was an obvious wiring issue. Turns out I had improperly connected a harness wire to the green/black which is 12v. Disconnected it and she started right up...and purred like a kitten. Loving the 731/272/1.3 combo. Best running M20 I've ever seen

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  • SterlingMetE30
    replied
    Can any one help with these plugs? 86 eta, and pretty sure the donor harness is from an 89.

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

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  • SterlingMetE30
    replied
    Can any one help with these plugs? 86 eta, and pretty sure the donor harness is from an 89.

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    The VIN number the ECU is from is on the ECU case (if still intact). You can use the last 7 digits to see what it originally came from.



    Originally posted by nando View Post
    it's exactly the same. Just slightly different software - basically it has a speed limiter set to 125mph. There's no physical difference, advantage, or disadvantage to a 525 vs a 173.



    Correct. Usually found in automatic cars for some reason. Not sure why BMW would speed limit the autos, but not manuals. Usually in the 80's and 90's cars were speed limited based on the tire speed rating that was sold with the car.

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  • nando
    replied
    it's exactly the same. Just slightly different software - basically it has a speed limiter set to 125mph. There's no physical difference, advantage, or disadvantage to a 525 vs a 173.

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  • Tainen
    replied
    Hello,

    I have an ECU with the Bosch Motronic number: 0 261 200 525

    Some searching makes me have more questions than answers. it does look like a motronic 1.3 system, but *everywhere* talks about the 153 vs 173 ECUs... is this 525 more rare or different in any way?

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  • Prizm
    replied
    I have verifyed the cps connecter buy checking continuity to ecu. Also verfiyed ohm change well cranking. Switched around connectors, to make sure. nothing. Verifyed all sensor grounds. Kinda stuck past geting replacment ecu.

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