Alright, so I'm putting an i head on my eta bottom end. This is to get the engine ready for the turbo I plan on putting on it. I got my hands on a 173 ecu and an i intake manifold. I'm still trying to get the i head. Anyway, I was wondering what other parts off the i I'm going to need. A list would be nice so I can figure this all out. And yes, I searched, I just wanted a concise answer
327i -- what parts needed
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327i -- what parts needed
Originally posted by george graves
Are you kidding me? That nerd doesn't even know how his dick works, let alone a car.Tags: None -
so i think I found the thread that answers my question... http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=100939
but that talks about keeping the eta head and i don't want to do that...Last edited by TheEtaUnderdog; 01-19-2008, 05:24 PM.Originally posted by george graves
Are you kidding me? That nerd doesn't even know how his dick works, let alone a car. -
get the complete wiring harness and pulley's from the I car. the lower one has the crank trigger wheel you are going to need. get the injectors from the i as the eta's are low impedance and also the i fuel pressure regulator and plug wires. also grab the afm if its available. the only thing im not sure if you need or not is the afmsigpicComment
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also if you can cut things on the donor car, take the round connector (c101) and about 6 inches of wire that goes to the fuse box so you can make a nice adapter. depending on the year of your car there will be a small connector in the glovebox that has a green, a black and a yellow/white wire (3 pin connector). i dont remember what each is for but i think green is fuel pump, black is rpm for tach and yellow white is for fuel rate sensor. the i car has this connector combined in the big round plug at c101 so you will have to open up the harness near the dme and find the appropriate wires(fuel rate, tach, and fuel pump) and connect them to the connector in the glove boxsigpicComment
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thanks! i appreciate the quick replyOriginally posted by george graves
Are you kidding me? That nerd doesn't even know how his dick works, let alone a car.Comment
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so i think I found the thread that answers my question... http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=100939
but that talks about keeping the eta head and i don't want to do that...
Let me know if you need any help!
Quote. 1988 model year, the eta cars got a refresh from the factory. This included a newer Bosch Motronic version with adaptive idle control, a 325i head casting with the larger valves, ports, revised combustion chambers and water jacket, new pistons to fit the 2.7 L stroke with the 2.5 L head, a dual exhaust system and a 5300 RPM rev limit. Though it only made slightly more power in stock form, it could be easily boosted by bolting on a 325i cam and springs, a complete 325i intake manifold and throttle and plugging in the 325i engine control unit. Depending on which cam, chip and intake is used, the combination can make over 180 horsepower with the stock compression ratio. In aftermarket modifications that are inspired by custom versions of Alpina and AC Schnitzer, the long-stroke eta engine block is often combined with a 325i head to a so-called 327i that combines the high low-rev torque of the eta with the top-range power of the 325i.
This has a lot of reference pictures to help.
Last edited by kenika65; 01-20-2008, 02:38 PM.
1986 325es (69k) Garage Queen Buy It Now 10k;1986 325es (track rat) 2.7i How-To & 1.1/1.3Motronic UpGrade
1991 318is (daily driver) 1991 318is M42 Maintenance How-To;1989 325i (parts car)Comment
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