$100 Reward For Right Answer

[e30evolution]

what else are you changing when you spray starter fluid? are you spraying it directly in the throttle body? like was stated previously make sure the AFM door is not stuck... and how do you know the injectors are firing? get a noid light and check to see the PCM is firing the injectors.

[SamE30e]

Check that the timing reference sensor and crank position sensor aren't mixed up. They're the same plug but if they are plugged in backwards the car won't run.

[atomic]

Ok I checked through the help, fuel hoses were not reversed. Tried other coil. Relays are fine, problem has to be electrical, but ignition. Pressure regulator is new, unless it's defective new. Timing belt service was done. I always under impretion that temp sensor had more to do with idling, and not starting, I'll check it out in a little bit. Symptoms up to it are none, I parked the car for few cold months, now I get this.

Recently?? and has car started and run since this service was done?

Sounds like it is out of time.. ie did not set top dead center correctly or mixed up installation of spark plug wires at cap.

[silversleeper]

i still say his fuel pump is shot. starting fluid sprayed in through the throttle body or AFM is not going to prove that fuel from the tank is being supplied to the motor.

[NC325iC]

how are you sure the injectors are working?

[ClassicScot]

make sure coil connections are tight... if they are loose it can cause it not to start, its silly but i could be right! i would like to have said reference sensor but it already has.

[rookie]

I mean it, I will paypal $100 to the person who helps me solve the problem.

Engine turns, but won't start. This is 1989 325iS. Was converted from automatic.

Fuel pump works, with starting fluid car fires up. ECU works (tried 2 spares, no result) Crank sensor works. Spark plugs new, so are most of the ignition parts. Replace all relays with spares. With test light checked every damn wire. Fuel injectors are firing. I drained the tack, replaced fuel filter, and put fresh gas in.

Here's my problem. With main relay in, ICV makes weird sounds. Any one have any ideas.

Give me an idea and how to test it, I'll try it, if it works, I'll send you $100, not kidding, I want my baby back.

Ask me questions if you need more details.

1. fuel tank empty
2. battery discharged
3. battery terminal connections loose or corroded
4. leaking fuel injector(s),faulty fuel pump,pressure regulator,etc
5. fuel not reaching fuel injection system
6. ignition components damp or damaged
7. fuel injector stuck open
8. worn,faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
9. broken,loose or disconected wiring in the starting circuit
10.loose distributor is changing ignition timing
11.broken,loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty coil

copied from the haynes manual

[M3 Ryan]

Check the plug harness for the injuector rail. Make sure the plug isn't full of water or corroded which can cause this issue. Also, pull the plugs and see what they look like if the connector is OK. The plug I am talking about is stright down from the TB, going through a bracket on bottom of the intake manifold. You will probably need to take off the airbox/elbow to access it and see if the pins are ok.

[kowalski]

does it actually stay running after it gets started with starting fluid, or will it only run for a second and then shut off?

regardless, if it starts when your giving it fuel manually, then its a fuel problem.

fuel pressure regulator, injectors, or fuel pump. go buy a 10$ inline fuel pressure gauge and plumb it in.

also, pull off the fuel pump cover under the rear seat, and see if your getting your voltage to the fuel pump.

[scabzzzz]

Smack the shit out of the ECU and then try to start it.
hehe

Make sure the chip is seated properly on the board in your DME?

[Republic]

Check the plug harness for the injuector rail. Make sure the plug isn't full of water or corroded which can cause this issue. Also, pull the plugs and see what they look like if the connector is OK. The plug I am talking about is stright down from the TB, going through a bracket on bottom of the intake manifold. You will probably need to take off the airbox/elbow to access it and see if the pins are ok.

+1

I had this problem when I was forced to switch my injector rail. Look at the connector pins. If the pins are greenish, you will need to replace the plug/harness.

Another area to check is to the gaskets for the intake manifold. Mine were shot and my car barely, barely ran.

However, I only found this out by taking it to a car shop that dealt with a lot of e30's. They ran a diagnostic and found it right away. That may be your best shot and it would most likely be under $100.00. Only cost me $50.

Good luck!

[8oost0ne]

Check the main link (fuse) that is in the trunk, if it is blown it will not start!!! Its a 40 amp i think!! And it is on the right side under that plastic trim (you have to cut apart the insulation to access it) .

[cunninglinguist]

Since your main relay is making a noise, I'd check the OBC relay and module. You can bypass the OBC relay altogether.

And verify that the connector for the main relay is making good contact with the relay.

[0000000000]

try the coolant senders.

[NC325iC]

Check the plug harness for the injuector rail. Make sure the plug isn't full of water or corroded which can cause this issue. Also, pull the plugs and see what they look like if the connector is OK. The plug I am talking about is stright down from the TB, going through a bracket on bottom of the intake manifold. You will probably need to take off the airbox/elbow to access it and see if the pins are ok.

thats where i was going with my post... split it 50 50?