Replace rod bearings w/motor in car?

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  • DeeJayDubbuyew
    Member
    • Jul 2008
    • 56

    #1

    Replace rod bearings w/motor in car?

    Is this worth trying? Or do you just have to pull the motor?





    You know what'll happen if I get the motor on the stand... :) $ :)
    DJW
  • SpecM
    R3V Elite
    • Oct 2005
    • 4531

    #2
    -You can, but It'll be a pain-in-the-butt. You'd still have to remove the head, and the crank. Remember to replace the rod bolts too!
    1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

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    • peerless
      Banned
      • Dec 2003
      • 285

      #3
      You can do it. If you have a lift it would be a ton easier. As a note you do not have to remove the crank from the engine to do rod bearings. You will need new bod bolts. About $55.

      You also don't have to remove the head or the pistons.

      But I do ask

      'Are you sure your bearings are bad?'

      What are the symptoms?

      Comment

      • DeeJayDubbuyew
        Member
        • Jul 2008
        • 56

        #4
        It knocks at 2500+ rpms, & the first few revolutions on a cold start, b4 oil pressure builds. It runs very well & only seems to be one rod. I've inspected the rockers & all seems good there. The car has 190k on the clock.
        Gaining access to the rod bolts is all I need. So I need to raise the motor & pull the pan, or do you drop out the cross member?
        DJW

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        • ieatpeople
          E30 Modder
          • Mar 2008
          • 883

          #5
          Originally posted by DeeJayDubbuyew
          It knocks at 2500+ rpms, & the first few revolutions on a cold start, b4 oil pressure builds. It runs very well & only seems to be one rod.
          i have an identical problem with my 87 325is, if that is fixable without swapping engines, or complete removal, that would be awesome.
          Originally posted by BillBrasky
          That's like Vlad challenging Chip Foose to a car painting contest.
          Originally posted by acolella76
          i'm pretty sure 'Phillis' is short for syphilis
          2007 CVPI, stock and slow
          1994 tercel, 5efhe swap, i/h/e
          1984 t-type, 5.3/th350 swap in progress

          My newest addition:
          Rebecca Arlene, born 4/19/2013

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          • Eric Giles
            E30 Enthusiast
            • Oct 2003
            • 1068

            #6
            I replaced the rod bearings on my E30 M3 with the motor in the car, but I was also in the process of replacing the front subframe so it made the process much easier. I used one of those engine hoists that sits between the channels on the front fender and holds the engine via chain on the front pickup point, then dropped all of the front suspension and subframe. You can do it with the subframe in the car, but you will have a much tighter area to work in. Due to the fact it can be a pain reinstalling the oil pan/oil pump assembly on an M20, I would probably remove the front subframe to make the entire process easier.
            Eric Giles
            '20 M2 CS
            '04 M3
            '11 X5 35D
            '87 325is
            '91 325i Sport

            There are few things more expensive than a cheap BMW...

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            • erik325i
              No R3VLimiter
              • Jan 2005
              • 3567

              #7
              Originally posted by SpecM
              -You'd still have to remove the head, and the crank. Remember to replace the rod bolts too!

              You do not even have to touch the head. You don't have to remove the crank either. I replaced my rod bearings in my m20 while in the car. I dropped the whole front subframe for easier access.

              Erik

              Comment

              • jlevie
                R3V OG
                • Nov 2006
                • 13530

                #8
                As stated above, this isn't all that difficult to do w/o pulling the engine. An engine brace makes it easier and you will want to drop the sub-frame.
                The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                Comment

                • DeeJayDubbuyew
                  Member
                  • Jul 2008
                  • 56

                  #9
                  Originally posted by erik325i

                  You do not even have to touch the head. You don't have to remove the crank either.

                  Erik
                  Yeah, I knew all that - I just need to be able to remove the pan, rotate the crank & have access to the rod bolts.

                  It looks like you could leave the struts attached at the top, remove the 4 big bolts & just drop (not remove) the sub-frame. Am I missing anything? Steering column-to-rack connection? Brake lines?
                  Maybe two hours & I could have the pan removed?
                  DJW

                  Comment

                  • SpecM
                    R3V Elite
                    • Oct 2005
                    • 4531

                    #10
                    Originally posted by erik325i

                    You do not even have to touch the head. You don't have to remove the crank either. I replaced my rod bearings in my m20 while in the car. I dropped the whole front subframe for easier access.

                    Erik
                    -Yea you're right, I wasn't thinking about it correctly... nevermind...
                    1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

                    Comment

                    • kenika65
                      E30 Fanatic
                      • Aug 2007
                      • 1336

                      #11
                      Here there are some picture to help you visualize it.

                      And I know you have an M20!


                      1986 325es (69k) Garage Queen Buy It Now 10k;1986 325es (track rat) 2.7i How-To & 1.1/1.3Motronic UpGrade
                      1991 318is (daily driver) 1991 318is M42 Maintenance How-To;1989 325i (parts car)

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