Nando, we'll see about the cam, I could always just buy a schrick and sell this one if I want. The schrick actually has a little bit less lift overall so the pistons still should clear at any point. At this point I dont plan on sending them my head, I'm going to have machine work done around here then do the major assembly myself. If I want more flow I may have that all done at a later point, but I can at least know that there's still a little bit left to have and the motor isn't just 'done' with tweaks. ITB's will help a lot too.
The megasquirt version I have is MSII/Extra on the V3 board IIRC. I cant use motronic to break it in since I will have a different ignition set up getting rid of the distributor and even though I could keep it, I'm machining down the harmonic balancer, pressing on a 36-1 wheel, and rebalancing it. That makes the engine rotating mass a little lower too.
I'll may do the light port/polish myself too, depending on how much the shop would want to have that done.
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some thoughts:
the stock clutch is probably fine. But I'd consider a sachs 618 PP - it ups the capacity of the stock disk to 330ft/lbs and is still streetable. I have the sachs sport clutch and 618pp, it takes 6k awd clutch drops and I also daily it - it's "grabby" but still smooth; it's still a sprung hub.
I disagree with jim on the cam (I've had the same ~1hr long conversations with him as you've had, haha), but it really depends on what you're after. you wouldn't have a hard time idling with a 288 - but schrick cams aren't as agressive as they look on paper. but if you want the rally cam, that's just fine. :)
valves - I agree with jim that oversized valves aren't neccesary. are you sending your head to them? I would highly reccomend having them back cut - this WILL increase flow. Jim does something similar to their valves, he has a special step cut they use, but it's basically the same idea. a nice side effect is the valves end up a little lighter.
porting - avoid much porting to the intake. I would focus on smoothing the bowl with a dull finish on the walls. you can go a little more on the exhaust, but leave a step from the exit of the port into the header, 1-2mm should be enough. polish the exhaust with a mirror finish, I would also polish the combustion chamber, and deburr the piston crowns (especially the deep valve pockets).
what version of MS are you going to use? you can break the motor in on motronic, it will run okay (i'd reccomend a stock chip), but you'll be missing out on good power until you switch to standalone.Leave a comment:
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^^^haha, i didnt even notice that. but i am sorta dislexic, so this makes sense.Leave a comment:
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dude, im running the stock 200K miles diff on my s50 swap, and i drive the piss outa my car. hasnt failed me yet...Leave a comment:
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OOh, that's ugly. Thanks for that. I'm still going to try the stock one, they can hold about 200 hp, and that's about what I'll have but in a much lighter car too. It also won't be nearly as much of a problem to swap out as on an e30 from the 02, only the essentials are there, especially no stupid heat shields etc to get in the way of getting at everything.Leave a comment:
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Do NOT buy a Spec clutch. I just recently had my Spec St. 3 pressure plate blow up and put nearly a dozen cracks in my transmission bellhousing and a hole the size of the end of a pencil. Just a warning.Leave a comment:
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Oh I forgot. I got my crank and ARP rod bolts in yesterday from the UPS guy. ARP doesn't make bolts specifically for the S50 application, but I read that the kit for the LS1 fits. They're 3mm too long, but the threading is .8" IIRC so there's still full thread engagement.
After I got home from work I took off the tranny, clutch and flywheel then mounted it up on another engine stand.
Here's how they sit right now. Ignore the messy garage :P
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Forget about the clutch.
Anyway, about the motor. I spent most of yesterday pulling it out with the tranny. I have a list of things to buy before any of it goes back in though. Somehow we managed to destroy the CSB (it was fine), I need a guibo, the right side motor mount caught up and tore before I got smart and took the mount arms off, and a couple other small things.
But its out. When I get home from work today Im taking the transmission off it, getting it on the hoist again and hooking it up to an engine stand so I can begin cleaning all the parts and transferring them to the stock rebuilt one that's going in.Leave a comment:
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Awesome, you are building nearly the exact motor that I want to eventually build.
Only I want to use his custom intake manifold and do his 11:1 compression pistons.
Although I will say I find funny that you are going to drop THOUSANDS on the motor but are trying to cheap out on a clutch. He will also tell you that the medium case diff will have no problem handling the amount of power that you are going to put through it, unless its just junk to begin with.Leave a comment:
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whats a good aftermarket clutch to use? I am doing a similar stroker right now.. 3.1L with high flow head, 272 cam.... etc. I was going to use my stock clutch because I heard it would hold up.... but I would rather be safe with a beefier setup in there.Leave a comment:
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