Another M20 Storker - I'll call it 3.1L+

[sofargone561]

Im very interested in this. How would it well would it hold up to boost?

[Justin B]

Thats what I had in mind about the weight, and everything else is lighter. A lot lighter.

I do have the rod bolts still. I could return them to Summit but I need to pay for shipping back. The ARP PN is 134-6006

[nando]

stock M20 crank is just under 50lbs, so you gained 14.6mm in stroke, a forged crank, and no significant weight penalty. ;)

[DSP74]

Oh and by the way, I got my S50 rods in the mail today! Woot.

That's the good news.

The bad news is that the head bolts that I bought from Summit that I read somewhere from someone who is on this site as well (dont care to name names, it was just the wrong part and they were told it would work from someone at ARP), that would work on the S50 rods actually do not work, the thread pitch is WAY finer than the S50 rod bolts. Same diameter it seemed like, and just like it said 3mm longer, but the entirely wrong thread pitch. If anybody wants a brand new set of LS1 rod bolts lemme know, or I'll just send them back to summit or maybe sell them later.

I could try and peddle them on FRRAX.com-f-body road race and autox forum.

Do you still have them?

[Justin B]

Will be posting pictures of parts I've received so far in a minute here, check the first post. Just pics for now, I don't have time to update my parts/cost list yet.

[nando]

I meant Coil On Plug, what does metric mechanic do?

oh, yeah, not much benefit there - the biggest advantage I can see there is better plug wear, since on W/S one of each pair fires inverted, so one plug wears out faster than the other.

MM back cuts their valves, that's what I meant. :p

[Justin B]

I meant Coil On Plug, what does metric mechanic do?

[nando]

Perhaps no benefit, but cool factor :P COP!

there is actually a large benefit, especially for the cost - it's basically the one of the main things MM does to their heads, actually.

[Justin B]

Alright, well I just got my metric mechanic order and some other parts today. Ive gotten most of the stuff in the last couple of days but I cannot find my card reader and CF for my camera. Pictars later today maybe if I get back home in time or tomorrow.

[Justin B]

Perhaps no benefit, but cool factor :P COP!

[nando]

yeah, any shop can do it. just what I found on a quick google search:

http://www.chicagolandmopar.com/techtips/backcutvalves.asp

wish I had known about it when I built my head. next time maybe?

I would seriously consider using the 60-2 wheel. few people do EDIS with these days, it was more popular back when it was a fuel only solution or before it supported more than 1 coil driver. technically you can do 6 with MS2/e, but there's no real benefit there. :p

[Justin B]

Oh and by the way, I got my S50 rods in the mail today! Woot.

That's the good news.

The bad news is that the head bolts that I bought from Summit that I read somewhere from someone who is on this site as well (dont care to name names, it was just the wrong part and they were told it would work from someone at ARP), that would work on the S50 rods actually do not work, the thread pitch is WAY finer than the S50 rod bolts. Same diameter it seemed like, and just like it said 3mm longer, but the entirely wrong thread pitch. If anybody wants a brand new set of LS1 rod bolts lemme know, or I'll just send them back to summit or maybe sell them later.

[Justin B]

I never really had thought about the resolution, but I was thinking aboutusing EDIS. Or at least having the MS control the coil packs without the EDIS brain (I think) and using wasted spark, and never thought of keeping the 60-2. I suppose I may. Perhaps if I get my flywheel resurfaced, which I really should, I could ask them if they could lighten the front harmonic balancer by a lot if I decide to use the original wheel...

You think any competent machine shop that can do head work will be able to back cut the valves properly? What area exactly would they cut and how far back anyway? I never really considered having a 100% stock head as far as ports and flow is concerned.

[nando]

Nando, we'll see about the cam, I could always just buy a schrick and sell this one if I want. The schrick actually has a little bit less lift overall so the pistons still should clear at any point. At this point I dont plan on sending them my head, I'm going to have machine work done around here then do the major assembly myself. If I want more flow I may have that all done at a later point, but I can at least know that there's still a little bit left to have and the motor isn't just 'done' with tweaks. ITB's will help a lot too.

The megasquirt version I have is MSII/Extra on the V3 board IIRC. I cant use motronic to break it in since I will have a different ignition set up getting rid of the distributor and even though I could keep it, I'm machining down the harmonic balancer, pressing on a 36-1 wheel, and rebalancing it. That makes the engine rotating mass a little lower too.

I'll may do the light port/polish myself too, depending on how much the shop would want to have that done.

why would you downgrade from a 60-2 wheel to the 36-1? the 60-2 wheel has nearly twice the resolution, which means more accurate timing and fueling. if you're going to run EDIS, I can sort of understand, but it's just as easy to run wasted spark with the stock toothed wheel.

I would at least back cut the valves -shouldn't cost too much, and there's a good flow increase. a stock head with ITBs might not be so fun. :p

[Justin B]

dude, im running the stock 200K miles diff on my s50 swap, and i drive the piss outa my car. hasnt failed me yet...

I'm talking about my 2002 Cary. This motor I'm building is going in the deuce. They have TINY diffs. That break, and very easily under a lot of power. I'll have a moderate amount.