Won't start :(

[Schniddy]

would having the car still on jack stands ( front higher than the rear) some how cause there to be any problems?

[Burnall4]

I missed this post of yours!

the marks for the cam and crank were both right on the money before I put everything back together. However, what if one was off by a 'hair' (not even close to a full tooth off)? Would that still make a difference?

As far as the fuel pump being on, when should it be kicking on? if I have the key turned to having all the accessories should I be able to hear it with the bottom rear seat removed?

I have a shitty harbor fright OHM meter. The red one that switches between the different setting on the knob. I dont think its made to give car battery readings. I've tried to test things before with that shitty thing and I'm not sure if it works/ if I'm doing it right. maybe now would be a good time to invest in a good craftman meter.

1. No being off a hair doesn't make a difference contrary to some opinions
2. It when you turn the key over to the accessory/on position not cranking the car over, should hear the buzz of the pump coming on, you need to stick your head near the gas tank in the trunk...or put an ohm meter on after pulling it out of the gas tank (total pain in the ass) Easy way to tell if it is coming on is the FP reading
4. Craftsman, found one for 20 bucks on their discount table, best tool i have bought to combat the electrical gremlins

That sparking would have to be some serious sparking to short out the starter, that thing is pretty hefty, but pull the wires and clean them off with sand paper, and put them back on...

[Schniddy]

There is no buzzing comming from under the rear seat, nor the trunk (Not sure why you would check there when the pump is directly under the seat). So with that said, that means the fuel pump isn't turning on? All the fuses check out. Would anything else cause the fuel pump not to engage?

[Burnall4]

yeah its dead, I heard it better in my trunk because its stripped, sorry didn't mention that.

[Burnall4]

well I shouldn't say its dead but mine buzzes when you first click over my key...might want to ask someone else on this one. But I have heard this to cause problems like yours, do you have fuel pressure...i skimmed over that in your OP

[Schniddy]

Fuel came out of both fuel lines when I disconnected them from the fuel rail and FPR, so I'm guessing that means I have fuel pressure?

[Burnall4]

yeah did it come out forcefully or just dribbled out...but if you have pressure to the squeeze of the line then you "should" be fine...

[Burnall4]

Another way to approach this is to start with the last thing you put in the car/engine and work step by step backwards to rule out the steps you have taken...sound stupid but doing each step "not literally" but moving from one thing to the next checking it rules out what you have done...not just going all willy nilly guessing...start and go systematically...I have to go home class is over but I will read your thread when i get home and throw some ideas out!

make a list and start crossing things off by writing down how you varified it worked properly, you should see these sheets that are on my work bench...

[Schniddy]

picked up a multimeter today at sears. Now I just need a damn eyeglass screwdriver to put a battery in and I'm going to start testing everything.

[gtdragon980]

does the car like backfire or anything during it cranking over?

and yes your fuel pump could be bad, that was another problem in mine.

[Schniddy]

The catback isn't fully tightened up yet, so i'm not sure if thats what I'm hereing when I'm cranking or not. If it was backfireing, what would that mean?

I tested the battery out today. It was fully discharged so I tested out a spare I have and it was 25 percent charged. So I took that to get fully charged. It wouldn't charge all the way but was pretty damn close. Now after trying to start it, its down to around 60 percent charged. Should it still start with that?

I took the TB off to test the TPS. It has 0 ohms at close and goes up whenever I open the throttle. When it's fully open, the meter reads 1. Isn't it supposed to read 0 at WOT?

How would I go about testing the reference sensor? It talkes about a black and yellow wire in the bentley but theres no exposed wires. :?

[Schniddy]

I'm pretty speachless right now



After taking off the Distribuitor I noticed a bunch of white chalk in the center of the rotor. After swabbing my hand to it, a cunk of the rotor cam off, not good.

I tore it down enough to take the upper timing cover off and also have enough room to cank the crank/ check the bottom timing mark...

It's off by over a tooth on the top. I roatated the crank 3/4 times after I installed the belt, it was dead on. The only thing I was worried about is if it was off a hair or not. So, with that siad I think I fucked up my head royaly. How the hell could this of happen?

[Schniddy]

I'm going to try and answer my question for myself. I think the camshaft bolt wasn't tight enough. Possibly freaing the rotor in place causing it to crack and in turn probably fuck up the top end?

I really think its gone. Opinions?

If its gone, looks like i'll be getting a new head. Why just call it quits after doing so much? never!!

So it's time for some schooling from someone who dosn't mind it. What going to need to be done to get the head off once I have everything apart again? Should be be looking at a parts list for this job? I know my torque wrench is real cheap. Whats an affordable, yet exceptable one to be looking at?

[Schniddy]

anyone? I'm going to try and get the T belt off and back on in a few hours today. I was told I should do a leakdown test. I don't have any of the equipment however. Would it be a bad idea to just fix the timing and pray that it will start?

[Schniddy]

Well, I think It's safe to say I jumped the gun on the timing belt issue. Something happend though for the rotor to crack. I was in such a rush to call it on the timing, I looked at the improper mark on the crank flywheel ( yes, it is possible, and it made it appear as if the camshaft was off by over a tooth). The lines are infact lined up!!

It's all back together now and I'm trying to figure out what the real problem is. The car won't run, it wasn't running before eaither when I thought it was a timing issue.

Right now its all fuel related. Hopfully


1. The injectors themselves are not viberating when the car is in the on position. They are freshly rebuilt M50 injectors so I'll take a wild guess and say the resistances are fine. This means I need to check the voltage at the connector

"on models with 6 cylinder engine, there should be battery voltage between the red/white wire and ground when the ignition is on."
Red/white wire? What? Where??



2. On my first start up I had the two fuel lines to the FPR and the fuel rail mixed up. This in turn could have fucked up the FPR, but this still dosn't explain the injector issue. As of now only fuel is comming out of the top hose to the FPR. Shouldn't fuel also be comming out of the bottom hose to the fuel rail?