Valves - time to do them

[quikveedb2]

I still wonder why we need any gap in there at all? None of my other cars except one has ever had noisy valves.

your other cars are newer have hydraulic lifters perhaps? iirc the gap is to allow for the heating & cooling of the engine internals, hence the adjustment being done when the engine is cold. not running any gap would lead to massive valvetrain wear in short order, don't do it. depending on climate you can also change to a different viscosity of oil to quiet the valvetrain some.

[rmousir]

that makes sense..

Thanks very much. Tell me, do all E30s have a little rattle?

[quikveedb2]

yeah it's common, the m20 in particular is often said to sound like a sewing machine.

[rmousir]

that is EXACTLY what it sounds like now!!! OMG I knew I knew that sound. So this is normal now?

[quikveedb2]

a certain amount of valve tick is normal. naturally the level of tick depends on valvetrain wear, condition, adjustment, oil viscosity, engine temp, etc.

[rmousir]

well I will certainly do the adjustments a couple times a year.

[jlevie]

Every 10k would be the normal interval for valve adjustments.

How much noise properly adjusted valves will make is dependent on how much wear there is in the valve train and head. A head in good condition will click a bit when cold an become essentially inaudible at normal operating temperatures. But if the valve guides, excentrics, valve stems, etc have wear the may make noise all the time.

[e30 gangsta]

fyi. If you put it in reverse and just rock the car the cam will move. No need to push it down any street...

[SpecM]

So this is normal now?

very normal, its what m20s are "supposed" to sound like

[Dave]

fyi. If you put it in reverse and just rock the car the cam will move. No need to push it down any street...

I put it in 5th gear - you end up moving a foot or two at the most.

[rmousir]

thanks folks.. I put my car in 5th and just let it roll down the drive way.. maybe moved 5' total for the whole job. thanks very much for the info.. I feel much better about the car now. On to the next project.

[Moto-Mucci]

Just the info I was looking for. Just bought my 89 325is. almost 300k on the car and according to the PO, 180k on the motor (no records though).

She's quite noisy. Sounds like a sewing machine mixed with an exhaust leak at the headers (...which it might also have).

Now knowing this job isn't too time consuming, I'll probably get it done also.
I'll try to record a before and after sound clip.

Also, with such a high mileage motor - would it be beneficial to replace anything while I'm in there? I've got some spare cash and my goal is to get this thing into tip top shape before throwing anything aftermarket or performance based at it.

Down the line I'd like to get it running boost - so starting the build up / rebuild process would be ideal.

[rmousir]

while your in there you can do plugs, wires, blow by hose (on top of the valve cover), and if needed a new valve cover seal. You might also want to paint the valve cover. I will be sure to do that next time. Those are the things you will directly touch by doing this job.

HopeThatHelps.

[SpecM]

Every 10k would be the normal interval for valve adjustments.

yea, I set the lash and change plugs every year, in August.

[StereoInstaller1]

Richard, next time you do your valves (and there will be a next time, I promise)

Go buy a little pushbutton switch, called a "momentary contact", solder 2 wires to it, about 2 feet long (6 inches to 6 feet, whatev) and solder the ends so they wont fray.

Connect pin 11 to pin 14 on the diagnostic port using your switch...press the button (make sure you are in neutral!) and your starter will run. You can "blip" it to turn the cam to the next spot to adjust.

You can also use this switch to reset your oil change and service interval lights by connecting pin 1 to pin 7.

This info is here: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/sil.html

Luke