The car cranks, but won't start. The fuel pump won't run, and I've got no spark. The voltage at the fuel pump relay reads 12V until I crank the motor, then it drops down to 2-3V. the battery reads 12V but at the other end of the small cable(w/ fusable link) I read 12V until I crank or put the ingnition to run, then it drops down to 2-3V at the block on the firewall. If I wait till the next day, it does it again(starts at 12v then drops down to 2-3v and stays that way as long as I'm trying to test it). WTF!
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corrosion?
anybody see anything like this before? -
check your crank position sensor, exact same thing happened to meComment
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It was corrosion!!!
the fusable link was corroded! I started checking voltage through the cable jacket, and when I got to the link, I had 12v on one side, moved 1/8" over, and nothing. I couldn't even read continuity through it, so...
Now what do I replace it with?Comment
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You could bypass the fusible link, or replace it with a fuse. My preference would be a fuse and I think I'd try a 30a to start with.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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I am using an AGU type car stereo fuseholder, available at most all car stereo shops for about $10 and a 50A fuse.
Closing SOON!"LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW
Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398
Thanks for 10 years of fun!Comment
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Where is the fusable link located on a 89 325i coupe?
Is this in the trunk? or engine bay?
Is it the "flat spot" on the wire? just curious.. I think this could be my problem.
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Yep.Is it the "flat spot" on the wire?The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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$.50 fix
I spent $50 to get the car towed home:(, and $.50 to fix it with six inches of fusible link wire.:DComment
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