After timing belt hickup's

[Sirotto]

I have just replaced the timing belt, water pump cap and rotor as well as spark plugs. Everything is well when I start the car but when I try to accelerate the car cuts outs out just for a second. If you do not depress the clutch and take the load off it will die. It also makes the CEL blink once real fast but does not stay on. I looked to see if the crank position sensor was rubbing the water pump but it is not. Everything is new as far as fuel delivery and all hoses appear to be in good shape. Before the timing belt and other stuff the car was running just fine, any ideas outside of vacuum leaks? Also what is the wire that runs with the crank position sensor across the front of the engine?

[kenika65]

That wire is for the oil pressure switch on the bottom of the block.

And to me is seems like you have your plug wires mixed up or the timing off a tooth well good luck...

[Doughnut]

That wire is for the oil pressure switch on the bottom of the block.

And to me is seems like you have your plug wires mixed up or the timing off a tooth well good luck...

+1 On timing being out by a tooth.

[Sirotto]

I did see that the oil pressure sensor wire was unplugged. Could this have any effect? Keep them coming I will be working on the car Saturday the 13th. If it is a tooth off would it be advanced or retarded?

[Knockenwelle]

Oil pressure sensor closes to ground (and completes bulb circuit) in the absence of pressure. Unless I missed something, this does not have any effect on the computer. You could have gone either way on the timing, but it's easy to check.

[Sirotto]

Thanks again for all your help. i will be checking it on Saturday and I will update everyone on this. thanks again.

[kenika65]

So im guessing when you put the new timing belt on you didn't rotate the motor twice to make sure the timing was spot on?

[Sirotto]

Yes. I rotated it about 10 times by hand. Everything lined up. I even went as fas as taking the lower timing cover and crank pully on and off so I could check both timing marks on the lower end.

[bimmerboy12]

do a search on a thread I started, "$500 in parts and now have stumbling issue" in General Technical. I have an idle problem after replacing these parts. May be useful to you since there are now about 70 replies.

[Republic]

I doubt your issues are caused from the timing being off a tooth. I was off 3 teeth before by lining up to marking's on the face of the gear as opposed to the top of the gear.

I don't believe it would be your oil sensor line either, this is just a trip wire for dash. I cut mine and didn't get it fixed for a week. No non-performance issues.


To replace the belt, pump, and plugs, You shouldn't have taken anything off that would cause a vacuum problem. A loose coolant hose or air in the system would just cause overheating or leaking.

You need three things for your car to run: Fuel, Air, and Spark (electricity).

I would do the simple things first.
1. Double check plug gaps. Should only use standard copper plugs, no performace plugs.
2. Double check plug wires for correct path.
3. Make sure wire from Cap is connected correctly (driver side/front part of engine by intake manifold) Also check electrical connector (big circle) located right next to it.
4. Make sure battery is properly secured. A weak connection will cause acceleration/performance issues.
5. Make sure your AFM is connected to its electrical source. Unplugged your car should run, but will not under load.

For the most part, that should cover the more common issues with the "spark" aspect. Bogging out is from not enough fuel or not enough air. If there is an electrical issue this would cause fuel supply issues.

Did get a "stomp" code? With the key in the "on" position, stomp on the gas five times. The Check Engine light will blink once and then give you a 4 digit code. This can help isolate what to look for.

http://e30world.com/fuel/BMW-E30-DME-Motronic-fault-codes

[Sirotto]

Well I went through and checked everything. Now I have no idea. It only happens when the car is at full operating temp. Any more idea's?

[Sirotto]

I read the $500 in parts write up. Did the cap and rotor solve the problem. I to have a Duralast cap and rotor. Could this be the culprit?

[SpecM]

I read the $500 in parts write up. Did the cap and rotor solve the problem. I to have a Duralast cap and rotor. Could this be the culprit?

maybe, use only OEM stuff for the ignition system

[bimmerboy12]

I read the $500 in parts write up. Did the cap and rotor solve the problem. I to have a Duralast cap and rotor. Could this be the culprit?

I have been traveling on business for the past week and haven't had a chance to check my cap, but it WAS this issue for the other guy on there. I am going to replace my platinum plugs first then check the cap.

[Sirotto]

So I am still having issues with the damn car. So i re did everything and the car now misfires only when warmed up. Here is the story. After reasembley took the car out for a spin. Car was running very nice and had good power. never did take it past 4k just for the sake of the new timing belt. Ok so start to head off to do some X-mas shopping and the damn thing fell flat on its face. It did not die but it set the check engine light off and you could smell the fuel it was running so rich. Shut it down checked under the hood for leaks and nothing. Restarted the car and it acted like nothing had happen. Started to head back home and it started to misfire. When the car has no load on it it revs and runs just fine. But under load it mis fires between 2500-3000 rpms. WHAT THE F!*K. Any more ideas.