Best way to get intake on and fit the oil return pipe

[Chells_88ix]

Been trying to get the intake manifold back on the engine after putting a replacement head on and cannot get the manifold to go if the oil return is in place. I know someone out there has done it, what is the best way?? Help! thxs, chell

[Liam]

Use a zip tie on the spring install the manifold and then cut the zip tie and pull it out.

Important: don't use any sealer on the "O" rings and use a lubricant like assembly grease on the lower one (it needs to move when the engine expands and contracts with temp changes).

[Chells_88ix]

So if you compress the spring fully the pipe should then fit? Our problem is getting it to fit once you have the manifold centered on the longer center stud, seems if it goes on the stud there isn't enough play to get the pipe to fit under the manifold and in the block hole. It almost seems like the pipe is too long but since it is the one that came off it can't be. We have cleaned up both ends to allow it plenty of clear, clean space.

[E30Idea]

Be sure the o-rings are fitted completely flat in the intake and block. this could cause a fitment issue otherwise.

[Chells_88ix]

Oh, almost forgot, the lower side only had the thin metal washer, no o-ring at all. Will normal o-rings work in place of the originals, or do I need the squared type of seals? (The top one looks like a squared 0-ring)

[Hallen]

"normal" is what I got when I ordered the O rings for the pipe. Thanks for confirming the washers. Mine didn't have any on when I uninstalled it. I have some on order though. Where do the washers go with relation to the O ring?

Anyway, on my car, all I did was put a little assembly lube on the tube and then compressed it down into the block until the spring was fully compressed. Then there is plenty of room for the intake manifold to clear the tube.

Unfortunately, my intake manifold cracked when I was torquing it down.

[Liam]

"normal" is what I got when I ordered the O rings for the pipe. Thanks for confirming the washers. Mine didn't have any on when I uninstalled it. I have some on order though. Where do the washers go with relation to the O ring?

Anyway, on my car, all I did was put a little assembly lube on the tube and then compressed it down into the block until the spring was fully compressed. Then there is plenty of room for the intake manifold to clear the tube.

Unfortunately, my intake manifold cracked when I was torquing it down.

Bottom of the return pipe gets a spring then a washer then the O ring (look in the block for the old one, sits in a grove) top gets an O ring.

These O rings are a weird size, get them from BMW.

It must be placed in the block 1st before the head or manifold goes on. (Don't Use Sealer)

Manifold gets wave washers and a flat washer under 8mm X 125 nuts w/ a 12mm span.

Torque evenly and Not so tight next time.

[guibo09]

where the hell did you come from liam? 45 posts and you're already one of the most helpful guys here

[Liam]

where the hell did you come from liam? 45 posts and you're already one of the most helpful guys here

I'm a BMW Tech / Tuner, came out of the blue to rescue ya'll from the high post count, shade tree greasemonkey, keyboard, PS2, Nintendo, race car engineers. ;)

[Hallen]

Bottom of the return pipe gets a spring then a washer then the O ring (look in the block for the old one, sits in a grove) top gets an O ring.

These O rings are a weird size, get them from BMW.

It must be placed in the block 1st before the head or manifold goes on. (Don't Use Sealer)

Manifold gets wave washers and a flat washer under 8mm X 125 nuts w/ a 12mm span.

Torque evenly and Not so tight next time.

It is interesting that realoem shows the nut and the washer, but no part number. Same for the ETK if I put my VIN in. But it will show them when you just select a model without the VIN. Anyway, I didn't have the washers. The PO must have lost them. I'll get some ordered. I don't see a flat washer shown in the parts manual though, just the wave washer. It is an M8 nut, so if the torque is different then standard, they really should publish it. Anyways, it was my bad. Thanks for all the tips and sorry for hijacking a thread. I have a post over in the projects forum on this too.

[Liam]

The flat washer is an add-on by us old guys in the field.

A lot of PNs have been missing from ETK/EPC for a long time now (I think since the begining of ETK v1. I don't know why that is)

[Hallen]

OK, cool. I'll get a few aluminum flat washers too. There is plenty of thread space on the studs. What torque would you use? Snug? I used 15ftlbs (~22nm). I think not having the washers was part of the problem.

And thanks for the help.

[Jordan325iC]

Also, let me point out the proper way to install the bitch tube.
From top to bottom:
1 o ring on top
Vent tube
Spring
1 washer
1 o ring on bottom

Use two tiny zip ties to compress the spring:

Then slide on the intake manifold with ease and cut the ties.

[Liam]

/\/\ There you go pics and all.

OK, cool. I'll get a few aluminum flat washers too. There is plenty of thread space on the studs. What torque would you use? Snug? I used 15ftlbs (~22nm). I think not having the washers was part of the problem.


And thanks for the help.

Steel flat washers (under the wave washers, I think I left the incorrect impression in the earlier post)

15 ft.lbs. is correct, take them all up evenly a bit at a time though (also looks a little like the gasket could have been in wrong as well)

[Hallen]

/\/\ There you go pics and all.



Steel flat washers (under the wave washers, I think I left the incorrect impression in the earlier post)

15 ft.lbs. is correct, take them all up evenly a bit at a time though (also looks a little like the gasket could have been in wrong as well)

The gaskets are on correctly. There is only one way they will go on and have the injector port gap line up right.

It's odd that it cracked. I tightened them down in increments. I started from the center and worked out, kinda like the head bolts. The final tightening with the torque wrench was only a half turn or so.

The PO has a history of grossly over-torquing everything so it wouldn't surprise me if the crack had already started before I got the car. Or, it could have just been me making a mistake.