89 E30 325i vert crank no start after manual swap

[s3r3]

Hello guys I'm new here and not sure if I am posting in the right place but I am having a problem with being able to start my car. I swapped the car to a manual and followed the instructions in this video for wiring https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPzvZloX4VM. Before I put the exhaust fully on (I only have the manifold on) I wanted to try and fire it up for at least 3 seconds to see if it will run. I turn the key and it cranks but doesn't start. I kept on trying and finally it started for a second then died. I tried again and again and nothing. So I walked away for 20 ish minutes, came back tried again and it started then died a second after. What could be causing this?

Some things I tried/Concluded:
-The fuel pump kicks in for a second after I let off the key, but not while the car is cranking. I ran 2 wires from the battery to the pump to keep it running and car will not start. I also sprayed the throttle body with starting fluid and still no start.
-I believe I have spark because it did fire up twice, if i did not for any reason I don't think it would have even started.
-I replaced the oil pan gasket while I was doing this job
-Quite a bit of coolant was leaking from the lower radiator hose because i had to use a cherry picker to lift the engine up a little when I was doing the oil pan job and I guess that put a bit of pressure on the hose but I'm not really sure if that would cause it to not start.
-I replaced DME with one from donor car (known running car) still nothing
-Replaced fuses from donor car as well and still nothing.

The car was running perfectly before the swap.

[jgilber0]

Might be the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) or related wiring. CPS problems can result in crank / no start issues. Worth checking.

Nice write up here: https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/inde...osition_Sensor

[s3r3]

Okay I've gone ahead and ordered CPS from ECS tuning and should be getting it May 8th I'll update soon as i get it put in. I also forgot to mention that before I did the swap when it was an auto when you would try to give it gas the RPM would dip like it would almost die until you give it more gas then it revs up. Just thought I would mention...

[ForcedFirebird]

You can test the CPS with a multimeter. Needs to be 540ohm =/- 10%

[gybe,]

Check to see if your CPS and cylinder identification wiring is swapped. Can check CPS resistance from pin 47 and 48 from the 55pin Harness plug, per the recommendation above.

if that is correct, check spark next. Verify wiring to the coil, verify the coil is good (resistance checks again, terminal 1 to 15 and 15 to center coil), check spark at each plug (Pull the plug with the boot on it and place it on the valve cover while trying to crank...don’t touch it when this is happening unless you want some extra good time tingles)...

[s3r3]

Okay so I have an update while I was checking to see if i had spark, I pulled one plug put it on the valve cover and the car started right up. So I put the spark plug back in the car and car does not start. So I take the spark plug back out and it starts.... now this is getting weird. Anyone have any ideas as to why the car starts up fine with on spark plug removed? As for the CPS I couldn't get around to testing it yet as I still have not purchased a Multi meter but either way I have a new one on the way.

[s3r3]

I GOT IT TO START... okay as stupid as I might sound... it just needed a new battery..... so I realized that by removing the spark plug, I was able to reduce pressure inside the engine making it easier to turn over so that gave me the idea of trying to throw in a new battery and tadaaahh it starts. Apparently, and even though the other one was cranking the motor several times it was weak and not doing it fast enough to start the car so yeah I wanna thank you guys for the help and the input I really appreciate it!