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    I swap clutch problems

    Okay so I have a 1985 e30 325e that I swapped an 87 325i motor into. I’m using a late model manual trans out of an 87 super eta and a single mass flywheel from the 85 e motor (didn’t realize it was different from the I motor SMFW)However I’m experiencing issues with my clutch where it doesn’t want to fully disengage. I can start the car In gear but it wants to pull forward and kills the motor when I dump the clutch. Now I’m wondering if it’s an issue with my slave cylinder considering I accidentally pressed the clutch with the slave out and may have possibly damaged a seal. Or if could be an issue with the flywheel I’m running or even the pivot nipple on the other side of the trans. I read that early model trans need the 323 throw out bearing to make up for the longer bellhousing but I believe since I have A trans with no crank sensor holes then it shouldn’t be the trans with the longer bellhousing. I plan on swapping the Slave cylinder regardless but any input on the flywheel or clutch I’m running would help a lot! Thank you! Also I’m running a Sachs clutch kit which I believe is for the single mass.

    #2
    Im sorry but Im a little confused. You say you can start the car with the trans in gear, clutch pedal depressed I'm assuming. But when you dump the clutch it moves forward and stalls? while still in gear? that would be because you fully engaged the clutch without enough revs.
    But do you mean it pulls forward and stalls while the clutch is still depressed?

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      #3
      Originally posted by iman53 View Post
      Im sorry but Im a little confused. You say you can start the car with the trans in gear, clutch pedal depressed I'm assuming. But when you dump the clutch it moves forward and stalls? while still in gear? that would be because you fully engaged the clutch without enough revs.
      But do you mean it pulls forward and stalls while the clutch is still depressed?
      Sorry for the confusion. I added that part to explain that the clutch is still engaging completely when the clutch pedal isnt pressed, hence being able to stall the engine. But won’t disengage completely when it is pressed. When I start in first gear and take my foot off the brake It’s pulling forward even with the clutch all the way in. I guess I was just trying to say that I know theres travel and the slave is working at least a little. Do you know if the e single mass flywheel could cause problems with the i motor and late trans?

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        #4
        Im honestly not sure about the trans and flywheel compatibility, but could it be possible the clutch hydraulics are not bled completely? I know they can be very annoying sometimes. What method did you use to bleed it?

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          #5
          I had the Slave off and the bleeder at the top and had someone opening and closing the bleed valve while I pumped the piston with my hand like I had seen in a video. Seemed like some air came out on the first pump or two but I can’t say I’m 100% positive. Pumped it probably 5-6 times and seemed like a steady flow of brake fluid was coming out so I tested it and didn’t notice any difference. I do know that the clutch was pressed while the slave was left hanging during the swap. So I’m honestly hoping that it’s just a bad seal in the slave and when my new one comes in the mail the problem will be solved. I just seen some things online about the e and I having different smfw and was looking for insight on that mostly.

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            #6
            Originally posted by iman53 View Post
            Im honestly not sure about the trans and flywheel compatibility, but could it be possible the clutch hydraulics are not bled completely? I know they can be very annoying sometimes. What method did you use to bleed it?
            Okay I think I figured it out. My trans came off an 88 super eta. After talking to the guy the trans came from it turns out his eta had a dual mass clutch meaning my transmission had the longer bellhousing to compensate for the thicker flywheel. I was under the impression that only the early model trans with the crank trigger sensors had the longer bellhousing. So I should be able to run the 323i throw out bearing and have no issues cause the longer bearing evens out the longer bellhousing. I’ll be replacing the slave as well considering I already ordered it. Wish me luck. Trans is coming out.

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              #7
              Cool! glad you figured it out

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                #8
                Originally posted by Pstone View Post

                Okay I think I figured it out. My trans came off an 88 super eta. After talking to the guy the trans came from it turns out his eta had a dual mass clutch meaning my transmission had the longer bellhousing to compensate for the thicker flywheel. I was under the impression that only the early model trans with the crank trigger sensors had the longer bellhousing. So I should be able to run the 323i throw out bearing and have no issues cause the longer bearing evens out the longer bellhousing. I’ll be replacing the slave as well considering I already ordered it. Wish me luck. Trans is coming out.
                Bench bleed that new slave before it goes in. Might be messier but it will save you some time. I think this is easiest if you throw the clutch flex line on the slave first and use a syringe to fill it, then hook up the clutch hose to the rigid line on the body.
                Originally posted by priapism
                My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
                Originally posted by shameson
                Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

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                  #9
                  With regards to bleeding the slave, I have had good success getting everything in, gravity bleeding, closing the bleeder and then actuating the pedal 300+ times (no exaggeration)

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