My '89 325iX doesn't put out much heat at idle, but as soon as I rev it to 2000 rpm, the heat starts coming out of the vents. At idle it is around 65°F air and at 2000 rpm it goes up to around 95°F (it is ~35°F outside today).
I read that this could be caused by air in the cooling system, so I went to bleed it again and noticed a whistling noise that seems to come from the water pump at idle. I took a video of the noise: https://youtu.be/0VO2dgQ2P2g. While I was bleeding it, I noticed that when I opened the bleeder screw, the noise would go away (most of the time) and then start back up a few seconds after closing the screw. Once the car got to normal operating temperature, I noticed that at idle coolant stopped coming out of the bleed hole. I could have the screw all the way out and no coolant would flow from the hole. If I revved the engine a bit, coolant would flow. I had the heat on full blast during this entire operation.
I should also note that the temperature gauge goes down a little bit if I rev the car to 2000 rpm and hold it there for a bit, not moving the car.
I replaced the water pump (Graf) and thermostat (Mahle Behr) as part of the normal timing belt job 2900 miles and 3.5 months ago.
My intuition is that the water pump isn't generating sufficient pressure at idle to move the coolant through the heater core (or past the bleeder screw apparently). Does the whistling noise mean anything to anyone? Is my intuition about the coolant pressure at idle off? Why would an essentially brand new water pump fail (if that is what is going on)?
I read that this could be caused by air in the cooling system, so I went to bleed it again and noticed a whistling noise that seems to come from the water pump at idle. I took a video of the noise: https://youtu.be/0VO2dgQ2P2g. While I was bleeding it, I noticed that when I opened the bleeder screw, the noise would go away (most of the time) and then start back up a few seconds after closing the screw. Once the car got to normal operating temperature, I noticed that at idle coolant stopped coming out of the bleed hole. I could have the screw all the way out and no coolant would flow from the hole. If I revved the engine a bit, coolant would flow. I had the heat on full blast during this entire operation.
I should also note that the temperature gauge goes down a little bit if I rev the car to 2000 rpm and hold it there for a bit, not moving the car.
I replaced the water pump (Graf) and thermostat (Mahle Behr) as part of the normal timing belt job 2900 miles and 3.5 months ago.
My intuition is that the water pump isn't generating sufficient pressure at idle to move the coolant through the heater core (or past the bleeder screw apparently). Does the whistling noise mean anything to anyone? Is my intuition about the coolant pressure at idle off? Why would an essentially brand new water pump fail (if that is what is going on)?
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