Does condenser have to come out to replace crank seal?

[mc625569]

Hello, I’m in the process of a timing belt change and it looks like my crank seal is leaking oil . I’ve got my radiator out , will I need to pull the condenser also to get an impact on that 300lb ft nut. From straight ahead ? Is it possible to Unmount the condenser without venting toxic materials into the Atmo? Or do I have to vaccum it out first. Ac doesn’t blow even remotely cold if that makes a difference. Any other tips or tricks on crank seal replacement ? I was going to put the timing belt on to crack the nut loose then remove it and replace the seal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nharperc]

The photos on this thread show the condenser in place while removing the crankshaft bolt. Seems possible to leave the AC system installed.

https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php/Removing_Crankshaft_Bolt

To replace the seal, you'll have to remove the lower timing cover, which is bolted to the block and has bolts going through the oil pan from underneath. The intermediate shaft sprocket also has to be taken off to remove the lower timing. Knocking the old seal out is easy. It helps to have a seal driver to install the new seal evenly, though not impossible to install it without one.

[Vincenze]

You need a crank holder tool to keep the crank from turning. Then, you can use a pipe to extend the breaker bar.

It's not recommended to use an impact wrench on crankshaft bolts.
But if you want to use it, the condenser must be removed, yes.

[ADEN]

We just put it on 1st gear with handbrake on and use a medium bar length and you are done you can get away with ratchet using extension.

[Westija]

I am just finishing my T Belt change that included replacing the Crank Front Seal (and Oil Pump Seal and Cam seal) and did not touch the Condenser. You have enough space.
Regarding the Crank Holding tool, I purchased it from Pelican and it was expensive. Check my thread about properly attaching it to the Sprocket Hub. I followed some advice and used some extra M8 Bolts (not the ones used to install the part), so if a thread would be damaged, it would not be a problem.

[Vincenze]

There is a $60 tool.
BMW CRANKSHAFT HUB LOCKING TOOL (M20/M40/M41/M43/M44/M50/M51/M52)

https://shop.ktcautotools.com/collections/bmw-tools/products/bmw-crankshaft-hub-locking-tool-m20-m40-m41-m43-m44-m50-m51-m52

Though, it was $45 not long ago.