M30b35 swap: just a few questions.
The timing belt in my m20 just went a month before I was suposed to change it so I figured why not swap in an m30. I've been doing some research and I have most of my questions answered, but there are a few things that I need to clarify.
1st: I picked up an m30b35 out of an 88 5-speed 735i. I got the wiring harness and ecu from the car and a getrag 260 from a 535i. This set up should be plug and play as far as pluging the engine harness into the chassis harness in my 87 325is right?
2nd: As I have to take the cam out when the head goes to the machine shop anyway, I figure I might as well put a cam it this thing. I have access to a shop that will regrind any cam profile that I want for about what a reground cam from any company I've looked into will cost.
So my question is, Does anyone have any information as to where I can find the stock cam profile and how much lift I can safely add onto it with close to stock duration without running the valves into the pistons?
3rd: Does keeping the cam duration close to stock and adding more lift make sense? The logic that I'm following tells me that if I keep the duration short(ish) and make the lift higher then I can get more air into the cylinder and bleed off less cylinder pressure and have a torqueier(???) engine when it's all said and done.
Thanks in advance, and I'll start throwing up pics and most likely a few more questions as the project progresses.
1st: I picked up an m30b35 out of an 88 5-speed 735i. I got the wiring harness and ecu from the car and a getrag 260 from a 535i. This set up should be plug and play as far as pluging the engine harness into the chassis harness in my 87 325is right?
2nd: As I have to take the cam out when the head goes to the machine shop anyway, I figure I might as well put a cam it this thing. I have access to a shop that will regrind any cam profile that I want for about what a reground cam from any company I've looked into will cost.
So my question is, Does anyone have any information as to where I can find the stock cam profile and how much lift I can safely add onto it with close to stock duration without running the valves into the pistons?
3rd: Does keeping the cam duration close to stock and adding more lift make sense? The logic that I'm following tells me that if I keep the duration short(ish) and make the lift higher then I can get more air into the cylinder and bleed off less cylinder pressure and have a torqueier(???) engine when it's all said and done.
Thanks in advance, and I'll start throwing up pics and most likely a few more questions as the project progresses.
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