Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

m20 eta to eta "swap" DIY

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    m20 eta to eta "swap" DIY

    Tried to find a post on removing the m20 or installing an m20 but I was unsuccessful. If there is such a post I apologize and please just point me in the direction.

    I was just wondering how difficult it would be to do a m20 to m20 engine swap. I would love to do a m50 swap but I do not have that kind of money, besides I have another m20 that has better compression and less miles. I figure the swap should be pretty simple since it is pretty much the exact same engine.

    My engine: 87' 325e 5 speed
    Other engine 87' 325e automatic

    I was going to have someone do it for me but I have pretty much done everything else to my car in the past 7 years so I thought I'd give this a whirl as well.

    Any guides available on this? How difficult is this swap, all I know about cars is what I learn from tinkering with my car. So my knowledge and experience is less than moderate.
    West German BMWs, they just don't make the same as they did before the wall fell.
    ^Case in point: Auto-Repair Technology. Everytime my car isn't starting or acting up I let it sit, sometimes for an hour, sometimes for days. But it eventually fixes itself.

    #2
    Doing the swap will help you learn your car much more. I would recommend it.

    Since it is the same motor going in, it will be a straightforward swap. You will have to swap over the flywheel to the new motor since the automatic flywheel will not work.

    There are two ways to remove the engine: 1.) with a cherry picker through the top, 2.) through the bottom by dropping the subframe and lifting the body as high as possible. Either way, you will probably need a cherry picker to get the motor out of the way. Just be sure everything is disconnected before pulling it (i.e. sensors, hoses, exhaust, etc), but be sure to label everything you disconnect.

    You'll just have to dive into it to learn.

    Comment


      #3
      It's pretty straight forward and fun if you like to get dirty. I'd probably post in the m20 section though...
      '86 E30
      '05 E53 X5
      '72 Firebird
      '10 Prius
      '03 Tundra

      Comment


        #4
        I figured this would be better place to post because people who take engines would visit this section. I've got an engine hoist I can borrow whenever I'm ready to undertake this job. I figure I'll need to go through a can of pb Blaster to loosen everything up.

        So how difficult will this be? The local foreign auto shop would charge $400 to put the engine in but an additional $400 just to pull the engine out of the junked car. Initially I was just going to pull the one engine and save half but I figured "hell if I'm going to pull one engine I might as well do the whole thing."

        Are there any guides or places to go for information? I figure I could use at least half of any swap guide as long as that guide starts with original engine removal. I have been unable to find anything yet.

        Right now I just plan on opening up the hood just start removing stuff, while closely documenting what I take off and where I took it off from. I figure this engine is so old and simple it shouldnt be too hard, that must be the reason everyone loves these cars so much!
        West German BMWs, they just don't make the same as they did before the wall fell.
        ^Case in point: Auto-Repair Technology. Everytime my car isn't starting or acting up I let it sit, sometimes for an hour, sometimes for days. But it eventually fixes itself.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by yert315 View Post
          There are two ways to remove the engine: 1.) with a cherry picker through the top, 2.) through the bottom by dropping the subframe and lifting the body as high as possible
          Well, after pulling my engine & tranny to do the eta to i conversion (and blown tranny swap) only to have my rear main seal leak like a bugger once I fired it up (and didn't drip previously) I am all about trying a different method to pull the drivetrain. So what all is involved in dropping the subframe? I have a lift, a cherrypicker and a forklift. I'm thinking that the subframe method may be faster for me. Any thoughts?

          Comment


            #6
            let me know if you need any random parts. I have an m20 that i'm parting out and one that's pretty much disassembled. Things like hoses and such would just cost the price of shipping.
            Greg

            Comment


              #7
              Neo, the best recommendation I can give you:

              -Label stuff THOROUGHLY. (i.e. which SIDE of the waterpump/FPR/heatercore/etc. does this end of the hose connect to?) Take pictures if you have to.

              -Remember the ground strap on the oil pan.

              -Disconnect the wiring harness above the glovebox & pull the loom through the firewall. This will keep most of the harness intact & speed things up quite a bit.

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks quick, yeah I was already planning on taking pictures probably videotaping the whole thing, I know it sounds pretty noob but I have a really bad habit of taking stuff apart and completely forgetting how to put it back together! I'll make sure to take lots of pictures and maybe post a guide since I haven't found one yet.
                West German BMWs, they just don't make the same as they did before the wall fell.
                ^Case in point: Auto-Repair Technology. Everytime my car isn't starting or acting up I let it sit, sometimes for an hour, sometimes for days. But it eventually fixes itself.

                Comment


                  #9
                  i couldn't send you a PM... here's my reply to your message about AC parts ----The system still had pressure in it a day ago. If you want it let me know what all you want. I never used it while i owned the car (the belt was cut) but if it held pressure from since before i've owned it (at least a year) i'd imagine most of the parts are in good shape.

                  let me know what you need and i'll pull them tonight or tomorrow
                  Greg

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by quickervicar View Post
                    I have a lift, a cherrypicker and a forklift. I'm thinking that the subframe method may be faster for me. Any thoughts?
                    You have all the tools needed to make these even EASIER! Yes, this method will be quicker, especially with the lift.

                    Remove everything like you would if you were to pull the motor out the top. Keep the motor mounted to the subframe. Remove the brake lines, shock tower bolts, control arm mounts and subframe bolts all while the car is still on the ground (I would recommend having a dolly of some sort under the subframe so you can move it around when it's out). Once the subframe is free from the body, use the lift to raise the car slowly. The subframe will drop out from under the car with engine and tans in tact.

                    This can also be done with good jacks and stands, or a handful of strong friends.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      don't forget to install a pilot bearing into the back of that automatic crank.
                      Build thread

                      Bimmerlabs

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks, yert. I was planning on using the forklift with 72" tine extensions & a long pallet to move the goods around once they're dropped. Not a fan of bleeding the brakes, so maybe I will just pull the calipers & secure them to the chassis.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          So we can file an m20 eta to m20 eta swap as driveway do-able? Appreciate all the tips. I could use all the help I can get!
                          West German BMWs, they just don't make the same as they did before the wall fell.
                          ^Case in point: Auto-Repair Technology. Everytime my car isn't starting or acting up I let it sit, sometimes for an hour, sometimes for days. But it eventually fixes itself.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            How level is your driveway?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              yeah well thats the thing. I've got a pretty level spot. It slightly leans to the side but I've got a level enough spot (i hope). The real problem is that is gravel/brick where i've got the junked car sitting, I'll put down a plywood floor and hopefully the hoist will roll on that.
                              West German BMWs, they just don't make the same as they did before the wall fell.
                              ^Case in point: Auto-Repair Technology. Everytime my car isn't starting or acting up I let it sit, sometimes for an hour, sometimes for days. But it eventually fixes itself.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X