Originally posted by Lurker27
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If it were me, I'd be looking for another block...
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Oh dear, your not going to weld the block are you? :p
If it were me, I'd be looking for another block...///Monstrosity. (OO≡≡[][]≡≡OO)
Aside from showing yourself to be offensive, lacking experience and ignorant in the ways of business, you're also illiterate and imprudent. Beyond that, your sense of liability is severely impaired.
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Repost.Last edited by Doughnut; 12-12-2009, 06:03 PM.///Monstrosity. (OO≡≡[][]≡≡OO)
Aside from showing yourself to be offensive, lacking experience and ignorant in the ways of business, you're also illiterate and imprudent. Beyond that, your sense of liability is severely impaired.
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Repost.Last edited by Doughnut; 12-12-2009, 06:03 PM.///Monstrosity. (OO≡≡[][]≡≡OO)
Aside from showing yourself to be offensive, lacking experience and ignorant in the ways of business, you're also illiterate and imprudent. Beyond that, your sense of liability is severely impaired.
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While we cant really say what he did wrong because we werent there, i would also venture to say that it is possible that the casting could have been bad, spongy if you will like some of the crappier rocker arms out there. Each pore has the potential to be a starting point for crack and of course with the heat cycling on that side of the block...
You can fix it, but if you plan to "weld" it up, you have to get the block hot with a torch, and use a high nickel rod to fuse the metal together.
You really should have use the factory lifting points, the one by the starter on the back and the bracket on the front of the block near the water pump with a load leveler, really no better way IMO.Comment
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Originally posted by Flash View Post
I think so too. I tried it both ways and using the factory point is what worked for me.84' 318i m30b35 swapped!
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Yes, I do plan on welding to the block directly, taking precautions to preheat and SLOWLY cool the weld. In both holes >50% of the threads are left. I'm going to try to add some exterior buttressing and will use the factory lift points (though note that I did it this way based on jardsquires, and that someone else in this thread had his lift out. After seeing ti in person I'm not too worried about the strength of the joint once it's in the car, but every precaution shall be taken.'89 335is +turboComment
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OK update:
Exterior buttressing is not gonna happen, those holes aren't close enough to round. I am going to get a pipe that slip fits the unused big ass mount holes and press it in to the block so that the screws only take rotational forces (not the weight of the block)
Should be stronger than stock.'89 335is +turboComment
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Update:
All 3 original holes were used as studs. Where structural deformation made the mount not sit flush, grinding was used. JB welded washers were used to increase thread engagement and mount the mount arms flat on the studs.
In addition, the additional hole in the area had a 9/16" rod steel pressed in, which was then MIG welded to the mount arm.
Seems inestimably stronger than stock.'89 335is +turboComment
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