A/C fitment: good news. I think.

[nmlss2006]

Reference: M30B35 from E34, with an E32 auto harness on it. E34 5sp trans. 2/91 build 325, originarily iA. E28 radiator, held in by the plastic ears (yes, I need to fab a metal bottom bracket, more about that in a moment). Funk brackets, supposedly, urethane engine and trans mounts. AC was taken out by PO, I'm putting it back in.
I finally have several compressors. One from a 1989 535i and one from a 1991 535i. The funny thing? They both fit. I trimmed the rubber radiator mounts to 50% thickness, still have ~2mm clearance in front... and both compressors have at least 4mm from the radiator. More like 6 with the older one. That should be enough to get me by, I think?
The thing I still don't get: the PO confirms he bought brackets from Funk. That should not require firewall... adaptation with a B35 head. Yet, the firewall was quite clearly ADAPTED. Is that why my compressor fits I wonder?

[1987E30project]

Just an observation. I have Funk's brackets and in hindsight I should have "adapted" the firewall some. The head does not touch the firewall but it is very, very close so I don't think that is going to make a difference in how close the compressor fits to the radiator. I think the placement of the radiator is the variable in this equation.

[E30SPDFRK]

I had Funks mounts without firewall mods. Well, no firewall mods that I did that is... The head and transmission both wore little dents into the firewall. Brand new rubber mounts and everything.

[nmlss2006]

More info: the compressor that fits best is a Seiko/Seiki, model SS1100 PB5 . The PB3/PB5 seem to be on all E30s (!), on E28 M5s and on some (few) E34s, 1989-1990. The PB3 may be what is on E30s and what requires clearancing of the M30 bracket, but I have no further information there. I do know that the PB5 fits. Now, 6mm is ~1/4in, which is not quite entirely sane, but I'll buy it with urethane mounts. With rubber mounts I'd be more concerned.

[Jean]

I have now two compressors on hand, the 91 b35 compressor, and a Denso e30 325i compressor. Can you post picture of the Seiko SS1100 PB3/PB5? What is the part number on it and what car/year it came off of?

Thanks

[george graves]

Are compressors ok if they sit on a shelf with the lines attached, but open, for a year or two?

[nmlss2006]

Jean, pictures coming, so is part #. It's off of a 1989 535i. George, that depends a bit on where it was stored. Assuming it was a dry place, I don't see why not. Of course, if surface rust has started to appear on the outside / at the inlets, you have much more of a challenge, but I would deem that quite unlikely. If it looks fine, flush it carefully with oil, procedure here: http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...threadid=12050 , you should be good to go, test the vacuum according to the procedure there if you feel it's necessary... or just fill with refriegerant and see if it works if you have access to equipment.
Edit: be careful to get all the old oil out and flush CAREFULLY. PAG oils are hygroscopic -> not good, mineral oils oxydise -> not good either. So drain, flush, fill, drain, flush... just in case. Ester oil / PAG oil are cheap, a compressor rebuild is a significant amount of work. A side benefit of the process should be that with multiple drain/fill/flush cycles you'll help the seals get a good coating of oil and therefore seal better if they were overly dried out.

[nmlss2006]

Jean BTW: the 91 compressor I have is *different* from the 89. There is about 1/8" difference, which may be enough to turn a tight fit into a decent one.
Here are the two, the 91 is on the left, the 89 on the right:

Part # BEHR, 64 52 1 385 416
Part # Seiko/Seiki, 64 52 8 350 060
Interesting fact: neither number shows as valid on realoem.

[Jean]

Yep, and neither number will come up with a local dealer either. My 91 looks like the one on the right. It's a Seiko unit, so it fits ok for you?
My concern is stepping on the brakes HARD and running that into the radiator.

[nmlss2006]

Yes. I have better than 6mm of space to the radiator, which is not great, but should be sufficient. I was under the impression that the engine had relatively little back-and-forth freedom, even with rubber mounts: how far is the stock fan from the rad?

[Jean]

I am talking about STANDING on the brakes, the whole drivetrain will then move forward. Next time you are coming up to a light or stop sign, pay attention to the gear lever and you'll notice it's movement forward.

I don't have a mechanical fan, but next time I look at an e34 b35 car I'll see how close the a/c clutch pulley and mechanic fan is.

[nmlss2006]

There's another problem I just have been made... forcibly aware of: the diameter of the fitting into the compressor is (*$%(@#@! different. Could I harvest the top fitting from an M20 compressor I wonder? It's held on with the two hex nuts...
And Jean, I hear you and propose two solutions: 1) 'soft' urethane trans and engine mounts 2) replace rubber mounts often. Experience has taught me that trans and motor mounts increase the amount of movement they allow at the 60-70k km - 40kmi mark. If one replaces them say every 25k, there should be less of an issue.

[Jean]

Another possible solution is source an aftermarket radiator with thinner end tanks. You can see that the e28 535i rad is thin, but it's end tanks are about 1/4" thicker than the rad itself. That way rad can be mounted flush against the core support and in the end provide for room.

[nmlss2006]

Jean, that could work. I also discovered today that the fittings are just fine - however, the LP line coming from the cabin is too short. I may have the local AC shop make me a small adapter line, about 6" long.
As to the radiator, I was looking into that and having indifferent luck at best. Google finds were fairly unhelpful.

[revitoff10]

Just some info to add. I have the A/C, E28 radiator, rubber busings and funk mounts. I have about 5-7 mm of space between the radiator and A/C.

I just got back from a track day with the car - r-comp tires, hawk blue pads, jamming on the brakes at 110 mph - no issues witht he A/C hitting the radiator. (I doubt anyone on the street is putting more force on the car while braking). The engine has never moved front to back on me. It would hit the firewall before the radiator (it's closer) and there are no signs of that.

Hope this helps.