From a uk site so some input will be required. (author Ziggy)
[quote="Ziggy"]Here's a start to a comprehensive M30 conversion guide. The bits in bold definitely need input, from me will do in some cases (ie where I've not dug stuff up yet), but other people's help & experience is needed too! I want to get as many photos in here as possible too. All input appreciated! :D
Engine
E32/E34 vs E28etc
Basically, you want the engine out of an E32 / E34. It's newer, better (bigger valves), & easier to fit than that out of an E28 (due to a coolant elbow on the back of the E28 head, & the need for the E32/E34 sump & oil pump with either engine). I had the option of a free E28 engine, but turned it down because of the above! There are parts of an E28 that are well worth having though - see below.
Mounts
.de mounts are the most commonly used, copies are also available. Roughly £150, & let you bolt the engine straight in. You can use standard M20 rubber mounts (others?). There are 2 positions on the .de mounts - I'd recommend using those that place the engine furthest back (AKA 'position 3'). You may have clearance issues with the bulkhead - I didn't, but other people have solved them with judicious application of a lump hammer... If you use the furthest forward position, you'll have virtually no room for a radiator, as well as worse weight distribution.
Some people have also had issues with clearance to the brake servo - again I didn't, there's usually nothing a dab with a grinder on the inlet manifold can't solve. Failing that, a mk1 golf GTI servo is a straight swap (It is smaller in diameter but slightly thicker, makes the pedal a little harder as it's capacity is slightly lower but it has no effect on the car's overall braking force).
WRT actually putting the engine in the car - I'd do it with the gearbox attached, as bolting the two together under the car would be challenging to say the least (changing the clutch will also be a horrible job under the car - buy a new one now!) It's easily doable this way round, providing your engine crane goes high enough.
Alternatively (if you really want to be able to remove the gearbox on its own), you can bash the transmission tunnel floor up where it meets the bulkhead and chop the top bellhousing bolt lug off of the gearbox.
[quote="Ziggy"]Here's a start to a comprehensive M30 conversion guide. The bits in bold definitely need input, from me will do in some cases (ie where I've not dug stuff up yet), but other people's help & experience is needed too! I want to get as many photos in here as possible too. All input appreciated! :D
Engine
E32/E34 vs E28etc
Basically, you want the engine out of an E32 / E34. It's newer, better (bigger valves), & easier to fit than that out of an E28 (due to a coolant elbow on the back of the E28 head, & the need for the E32/E34 sump & oil pump with either engine). I had the option of a free E28 engine, but turned it down because of the above! There are parts of an E28 that are well worth having though - see below.
Mounts
.de mounts are the most commonly used, copies are also available. Roughly £150, & let you bolt the engine straight in. You can use standard M20 rubber mounts (others?). There are 2 positions on the .de mounts - I'd recommend using those that place the engine furthest back (AKA 'position 3'). You may have clearance issues with the bulkhead - I didn't, but other people have solved them with judicious application of a lump hammer... If you use the furthest forward position, you'll have virtually no room for a radiator, as well as worse weight distribution.
Some people have also had issues with clearance to the brake servo - again I didn't, there's usually nothing a dab with a grinder on the inlet manifold can't solve. Failing that, a mk1 golf GTI servo is a straight swap (It is smaller in diameter but slightly thicker, makes the pedal a little harder as it's capacity is slightly lower but it has no effect on the car's overall braking force).
WRT actually putting the engine in the car - I'd do it with the gearbox attached, as bolting the two together under the car would be challenging to say the least (changing the clutch will also be a horrible job under the car - buy a new one now!) It's easily doable this way round, providing your engine crane goes high enough.
Alternatively (if you really want to be able to remove the gearbox on its own), you can bash the transmission tunnel floor up where it meets the bulkhead and chop the top bellhousing bolt lug off of the gearbox.
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