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    #16
    Yes, OP. did you read though the M30 faq/build thread?
    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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      #17
      Do you have a manual tranny for that?
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        #18
        yes i do, still have to change the main seal and shifter bushings, bought a m5 clutch and resurfaced flywheel.

        thanks everyone for answering my oil pan question i guess now that i have to run a different oil pan... do i have to buy different oil pump or can i just relocate it. Found a pan for $150.00 on ebay... maybe it would be better to visit local pick up part

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          #19
          What car is that M30 from??
          Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

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            #20
            Originally posted by rav320uk View Post
            What car is that M30 from??
            86 535i that I briefly owned. 150k miles!
            cars beep boop

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              #21
              Originally posted by zlatan55 View Post
              yes i do, still have to change the main seal and shifter bushings, bought a m5 clutch and resurfaced flywheel.

              thanks everyone for answering my oil pan question i guess now that i have to run a different oil pan... do i have to buy different oil pump or can i just relocate it. Found a pan for $150.00 on ebay... maybe it would be better to visit local pick up part
              You need a E34 oil pump for that pan.
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                #22
                Originally posted by kronus View Post
                86 535i that I briefly owned. 150k miles!
                E28 then, you'll need to block off the water hose on the rear of the head too as it won't let your engine sit far back enought to the bulkhead.
                Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                If you have bought items from me, please leave feedback below.
                If you are a BUYER, Check My Feedback.:up:
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=183860

                Check out my Euro Build Thread
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=215557

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                  #23
                  having trouble finding oil pan, anyone selling one, Kronus thanks for the motor do you know if your buddy got one in his garage?

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by zlatan55 View Post
                    having trouble finding oil pan, anyone selling one, Kronus thanks for the motor do you know if your buddy got one in his garage?
                    I don't think he does. I've seen E32s and E34s pretty frequently in Ontario Pick-n-Pull, though.
                    cars beep boop

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by rav320uk View Post
                      E28 then, you'll need to block off the water hose on the rear of the head too as it won't let your engine sit far back enought to the bulkhead.
                      Is it safe to block it off? The solutions I've seen involve either cutting or beating the firewall to make room for the rear coolant pickup.
                      cars beep boop

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                        #26
                        The b35s have it blocked off.

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                          #27
                          guys any suggestions how to properly torque down head studs (stock) do i have to run some sort of heat cycles and how many times? thank you

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                            #28
                            if you do a search here there is a Bentley manual in pdf.
                            Don't know it from memory but you torque them down by like 20ft at a time and
                            wait 15min in between steps.

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                              #29
                              EDIT: Um, that is for e28 535i motors...b34 not b35.

                              Bolts have a specific order in their tightening sequence, and 3 stages.
                              Stage 1: tighten bolts to 22ftlb's
                              Stage 2: tighten 90 degrees
                              Stage 3: tighten 90 degrees

                              That is for Torx head bolts. Hex-head bolts are different.

                              Stage 1: 29ft lb's(plus or minus 4 ft lbs.)
                              stage 2: wait 15 minutes after previous torque 44 ft lbs(plus or minus 4 ft lbs)
                              stage 3: run engine until it reaches operating temperature. tighten 25 degrees (it is ok to go 5 degrees over but don't go under)

                              Kinda hard to explain the tightening pattern but start at the middle of the cylinder head and work your way out alternating top and bottom.
                              Last edited by jim325; 11-27-2010, 07:15 AM.
                              89 325i: 86 535i motor+trans, JE forged pistons, MLS head gasket, ARP head studs, Comp turbo, GoodNTight b34 turbo manifold, e30.de motor mounts, AKG 75D engine/trans mounts, custom 3" exhaust, intercooler, MS2PNP, Megan Racing Coilovers.

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by LowR3V'in View Post
                                if you do a search here there is a Bentley manual in pdf.
                                Don't know it from memory but you torque them down by like 20ft at a time and
                                wait 15min in between steps.
                                hmm. thats what i did, minus the warm up because i have not ran the motor. my block has a stamp 3.5 but the motor came out of 86 e28 535i! i was wondering the same thing! Kronus any thoughts?

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