starting 1984 318i m30 swap

[turkytwerkin420]

Just came upon a 1984 318i with a really rough motor. I wanted to swap in an m30 and make a nice little sleeper. I'm new to BMW's, how should I go about finding the engine/parts? My budget is around 5k

Thanks
-Nick

[chance]

I did my swap (still wrapping it up) for uner half that I believe. I sourced my motor on craigslist, and most of my parts from a junkyard.
With your budget, I would buy a running, manual e34 535. That way you would have everything but the mounts, radiator, and single mass flywheel if you so desire. The e34s run a newer engine managment that is supposed to run a little smoother.

Are you going to do the work yourself?

[gtv-ts]

For what its worth I am running a e36 alum radiator, which is supposed to be the same as an e30 unit, in my m30 swap. 190$ from Turner. Without the a/c or p/s systems on the road it runs between the 1/3 mark and the 1/2 mark on the thermostat. On the track after a hard 30 min session she is right at the 1/2 mark.

While the a/c system was still attached and I was using a used 5 series radiator on the road she ran at the 1/2 mark and if I turn on the A/C she ran a tick over...

Had to get a little creative with the hoses...

[chance]

I was about to say the outlets on that radiator are in the wrong place.

I'd like to see a pic of how you fit the hoses.

[gtv-ts]

I'll snap a pic next time I am at the shop.

I used a random hose from the auto parts store that was a close fit and then trimmed it a bit. Its a tenuous situation though. The stock hose has two OD; a larger one to fit the thermostat housing and then it tappers down to pass the pulley. The one I am using is the same OD throughout. Where it passes the pulley there is maybe a 1/16th of an inch... I am running solid through bolt polly engine mounts so I am not to worried about flexing.

I did a track day with it this weekend and had no issues with it.

[chance]

That sounds pretty crazy.

So far I have only driven mine around the neighborhood, but it didnt even get to the middle.

Im running a 71* thermostat. Which one are you running?

[gtv-ts]

I don't know. I did not do the swap and I have not changed the t-stat. The shop that did the swap drilled a few holes in the t-stat so it always flows a little.

What sounds pretty crazy? The clearance, using a hose from another car, or the motor mounts? :D

[chance]

I don't know. I did not do the swap and I have not changed the t-stat. The shop that did the swap drilled a few holes in the t-stat so it always flows a little.

What sounds pretty crazy? The clearance, using a hose from another car, or the motor mounts? :D

mostly the cooling system. Out of the box thinking for sure.

I slapped a huge 16" electric fan on mine and it pushes a ton of air

[gtv-ts]

Yeah I am running an electric fan for when idling. It was snug when the A/C system was in but once you pull the condenser out there is all sorts of room.

My car has fallen into track work usage so I have little need for the A/C system now.

To get back to the OP:
Its a fun setup with the m30 I would budget for a set a springs for sure though. Especially if it is going into a 318. My car came with H&R Sports and with the added weight of the motor the car was leaned forward. Once I pulled the a/c and the p/s out it sits a little more level. I will be pulling these out and switching over to either specE30 springs or the IE stage whatever for the next track outing.

With the stock 318 springs I would hate to think of what your suspension is going to be like.

[CorvallisBMW]

You can do it for half your budget, no problem. You'll need:

- engine, manual trans and engine wiring harness from an e34 535i (if you plan on using the m30b35 with Motronic 1.3)
- exhaust manifolds and downpipes from said e34
- m20 urethane motor mounts (rubber ones don't last long with the extra weight)
- engine mount arms from Good & Tight (he's a member on here)
- 325i manual driveshaft
- e28 535i radiator (has correct hose locations)
- Some other details like coolant reservoir, e34 535i throttle cable, electric pusher fan, lower temp fan switch, etc
- definitely some good suspension and brake pads. Extra power without extra control is no bueno

[uturn]

You're in Cali,
don't forget about CARB if you want it to be a daily. Good luck!

[flawdaboi407]

318i harness:

#1 - BL : Alternator
#4 - BR/VI : Coolant temp sensor
#6 - GN/GE :
#7 - R/VI : Fuel pump
#8 - SW/GE with another small SW/GE : Starter
#10 - GN : Coil
#16 - SW/BR : Oil pressure switch
#17 - WS/BL : Diagnositic port.

e34/e32 harness:

Pin 1, BU goes to the alternator. Comes from the Instrument Cluster "charge indicator" light. BU in the fuse box.
Pin 2, GN/YL comes from oil lever sensor. It is BU/BK in the fuse box and runs to the static oil level active check control unit, which is the same as the oil level light.
Pin 4, BR/VI comes from the coolant temp sender unit. It is BR/VI in the fuse box and goes to the Instrument cluster temp gauge.
Pin 5, BR/GN Oil pressure switch. Runs to instrument cluster oil pressure light.
Pin 6, GN/WH goes to the O2 sensor heater relay. Gets power from fuse 9 and in the fuse box is colored GN/YL.
Pin 7, GN comes from the ignition switch and goes to the Start Input, in the motronic unit and it also goes to Pin 15 on the coil. In the fuse box it is colored GN.
Pin 8, WH/BK comes from the motronic unit "present fuel rate output". Is YL/WH in fuse box and runs to Fuel Economy Gauge in the bottom of the tach.
Pin 9, BK goes to the ECU Engine speed output. This is BK in the fuse box. On the E28 this actually should be the connected in C103.
Pin 10, BU comes from the oil level sensor. It is VI/GN in the fuse box and goes to the active check control unit as the dynamic oil level light.
Pin 11, WH/GN comes from Pin 7 of the diagnostic connector. Is WH/BU in the fuse box and goes to the Service Indicator Processor.
Pin 12, GY comes from the ECU and is the trigger for the "Check Engine" light control. In the fuse box it is BR/BK. This wire is not used on the E28, since there is no check engine light.
Pin 13, GN/VI comes from Pin 87 of fuel pump relay. Is VI/RD in fuse box and runs to Fuse 11.
Pin 14, BK/WH comes from motronic unit "Speed Signal Input". Is BU/YL in fuse box and goes to the Speed Input of the Instrument Cluster.
Pin 15, BK/GN comes from Pin 30h on the coil. In the fuse box it is BK/GN and runs to the unloader relays.
Pin 16, WH/BK comes from Pin 6 of diagnostic connector and is used in the SRS system. In the fuse box it is WH/BK and is said to be not used.
Pin 18, BK/YL is the starter trigger and comes from in the car. It is also BK/YL in the fuse box. It also runs to Pin 11 of the diagnostic connector.
Pin 20, RD/YL comes from Pin 87 of the main relay. It is RD/YL and goes to power the ABS Hydraulic Unit.
_______________________________________________

m30/e30318i
1/1
4/4
13/7
18/8 tie small bl/yl wire into the same connection.
7/10
5/16
11/17 Is the diagnostic port.
9-> Black wire in glove box above ECU.