Another E30 M30 Swap Thread, this time with an 84 318i

[G-Man the Visionary]

sup

[the imitator]

little nippy, but tomorrow and the next day look good.

[G-Man the Visionary]

Glad to see an update. Been wondering how you're doing. Probably starting to get cold up there, hope you have a heater...

[the imitator]

It's been raining quite hard the past few days, so ive been focusing on other items.

I think I've solved all my leaks around the firewall and found out the channels leading to the drains were packed with pine needles which was causing water to seep between the blower motor seal and the firewall itself.

Took out the stock antenna and plugged the hole. I also installed the euro grills and black kidney grills, and now I almost want black trim, the Delphin metallic and black looks nice to me, but my wheels are silver, and I'm not very convinced with painting the diving boards, but perhaps in combination with a minor tuck it would look okay.

Currently I'm laying down some cheap frost king for minor dampening and insulation purposes, then in with the new carpet. The frostking is very user friendly, and I personally feel it will do a great job.

[Bullhead]

Any updates? Great thread too btw.

[the imitator]

On the battery still at 12.22 I am only getting a readout out of dme pin 27 of around 8.03 hmm. thats out of the ignition wire from under the glove box..

wow just checking right now, I just bought a new main relay, Now the green ignition wire coming from the glove box, AND just the green wire itself have power? To add to the confusion, when I put the new relay in, it turns my car into the "on" position and my dash board lights up. Only when removing the main relay does it shut down completely.

Needless to say, getting a constant out Green wire 27 AND the Ignition wire under the dash.

Main relay lights everything up until pulled, That being said When I insert the relay, I hear the unloader relay (K7) gate engage. hmmm.


additionally I will take pictures of a 3 prong connector, white in color with a green/purple, red/blue, and Brown ground wire going from the dme to this 3 prong connector about 6 inches up the harness.

[the imitator]

The harness has been Extended in certain areas like spark plug wire and other necessary extensions. The harness came off a late model e30 with m30 swap, so there wasn't a need a to splice in a switched 12v source.

But now that I've swapped everything out of the late model into an early model, I've had to splice in the ignition wire from the c104 for switched power and can confirm I get voltage.

I also spliced in a constant 12v source to pin 18 of the dme plug as stated in the original post.. this splice is done after the main Relay, between the relay and dme. To clarify this means my dme is not receiving the 12V from the main relay like it would usually, but since I T spliced a power source to the wire, power should run up and down the whole line.

Can you clarify this please?

it is an m20b25 harness but pre-spliced to work with a b35?

[Mr. Burns]

This harness came off of a running m30b35 swap on the same motor... its an extended m20 harness though.

Hmm interesting though..

Can you clarify this please?

it is an m20b25 harness but pre-spliced to work with a b35?

[the imitator]

hey sorry guys for the lack of updates here. Still chasing a No spark and No fuel here.

I wrote the pin numbers and colors down side by side and then labeled based off of schematics from multiple sources to make sure I had the wires Identified correctly. The late model harness wasn't hard to find, but I DO have different colored wires on the Early model side then what you would normally see for an 84-85 318i.

early model (fusebox/engine side)-------------- Late model (ecu/harness side

1 - Blue - Alternator---------------------1 - Blue - Alternator
4 - Brown/Purple - Coolant temp-------4 - Brown/purple - Coolant temp
5 - Brown/Black - Oil pressure----------5 - brown/green - oil pressure
6 - green/yellow - fuse 9----------------6 - Green/white - Fuse 9 & 27
7 - One Green - Start input--------------7 - Two Greens - Start input
11 - Blue/white - Diagnostic------------11 - White/green - diagnostic
13 - Purple/red - Fuel Pump------------13 - 2 Green/purples - Fuel pump
18- yellow/black - Starter--------------18 - Black/yellow - Starter


I used Jlevie's trouble shooting post here

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=2618091&postcount=2

Everything checks outs as far as wiring goes now, I have the switched power hooked up to pin 27, pin 18 receives a constant 12v with key off, switched, and during crank.

• Resistance is in spec on 2 crank different sensors, and I've tried both.
• Continuity to both main relay and fuel relay from the dme read zeros
• Main relay gets power in off position.
• 2,14,19,24 are grounded on dme
• power is at coil
• thin wire going from battery block to fusebox is hooked up
• Coolant temp sensor is brand new
• I can jump the fuel relay terminals and get fuel pumping nicely out the other end and yes its connected correctly.

Before I go suspecting a crank sensor, relays or the ECU I want to question myself.

Jlevie says the following:
"Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the
injectors and fuel pump relay."

I get power on pin 86 & 30 of main relay and pin 18 of dme with key off; But the way I routed the 12V constant might be questionable.

I grabbed 12V from a convenient wire coming from the glovebox area, The wire stays active with key off, key on, and during crank. I simply took this wire and T spliced it into the the red wire leading to pin 18 on the dme plug. so the way pin 18 is receiving constant 12v isnt through the main relay, its through a splice; That splice is AFTER the relay.

Lastly: I tried bridging main relay terminals 30 and 87 and still, no start, no fuel.


"Bridge the DME relay by connecting pin 30 to both pins 87. This is to see if power to both the ECU and the Fuel Pump relay has been lost. If the car starts once bridged, it confirms battery power is getting to Pin 30, and that both 87 circuits are working (power to ECU and Fuel pump relay). It doesn't test the circuit that latches the DME relay, which therefore needs to be tested before condemning the relay."

Since I didn't get a Start here I stopped and took a breath and haven't touched it since yesterday which was just to make sure I was reading everything correctly. and no being a goofball.

I tested the main and fuel relays with a 9 volt battery and the gates function, but I didn't test continuity or anything else, so I think tomorrow I may get a generic relay from napa and see what happens... Unless you find error somewhere else.

EDIT: its 3am, I apologize if something doesn't add up here, mechanically, mentally, sensibly.. etc. let me know if you need clarification.

[kronus]

do you have a chart of the splices you made? m30b35 needs like 6 wires connected to run, i can get info for you

[G-Man the Visionary]

Did you get it fingered out?

[glnr13]

Word. I'm going to have limited info since I'm going out of town tomorrow. But I'll do my best since I have some documentation on my Google Drive.

[the imitator]

Ya, everything points the finger back at me and operator error. Once I get the car at the place I call home, ill go over things one at time. Glnr, I may PM you and go over things with you via pics.

[glnr13]

hmm, baffling

[the imitator]

Spliced with pins using a c101 just like a stock harness, nothing janky, I check my pins briefly and everything seemed to have matched.