M30 Turbo Build Guidance Needed

[makeshift]

My M20 blew in the last 300 miles of a 2000 mile road trip a couple weeks ago. I've decided to swap in an M30 and turbo it. Im just asking for some assurance before I make a move.

Here's my plan:
-Remove M20 and see if anything is salvageable.
-Clean/shave/paint engine bay.
-Find an M30B35 in a junkyard 535i/735i. It should be older than 88' so the block is good for a turbo, right?
-Refresh from the bottom up. New seals, timing chain, timing guide, timing rail, tensioner, head gasket, rings, and bearings. Am I missing anything?
-Get a Getrag 260/5 tranny, gearbox, E34 radiator fan, flywheel from a pre-84 533/633/733 or E12, E36M auto driveshaft.
-Aftermarket E28 535i radiator, exhaust, E34 throttle cable, engine mounts (that put the M30 as far back as possible), thicker head gasket, TCD turbo kit, clutch.
-Put it all together.
-Learn how to tune or get it professionally tuned.

Hows this sound? Is there anything else I need to know before getting started?

Thanks for your time!
-Matt

P.S. I want to build a quick DD that makes anywhere around 2-300 hp with 10-15psi. I plan on driving it as soon as the M30's in, even though it will have a thicker head gasket and studs or whatever else I need to make it turbo-ready and reliable. Is that ok? It would only be like this for a few months until I have enough money for the TCD turbo kit.

Edit: That was a stupid question huh. I might be over thinking it because I don't have any money right now, and at my job I can use a laptop and look at car stuff all day :thumbup:
Here's a picture of my car:)

[Bearmw]

An older block is good but plenty of people have run a B35 block with a turbo as well. Inspect the block for spider cracks and deck it. An m30 with 15 psi can make ovver 300 hp. A 260/6 is the best overall m30 trans in my opinion. Check out a lot of builds on mye28 for some good info. You have the basics down.

[Jaxx_]

the b35 cam is the most aggressive in the stock M30. As bearmw said, the m30 with some boost will be well over 300whp. I would suggest you wait to boost after you put the M30 in, because it has plenty of torque to move even a 3500lb car down the road.

I daily a 535i and I have an M10 e30. I think that in the e34 the motor could use another 50-70hp (seriously) from the factory, but put in a lighter e30 I think it would be a good match, even without boost. Depends on how fast you really want to go.

The M30 is usually pretty good with a stock head gasket and ARP head studs, some guys opt for a MLS and head studs, but it's probably only needed at 350+whp (YMMV--Check over on MyE28 for the real recipes)

[makeshift]

An older block is good but plenty of people have run a B35 block with a turbo as well. Inspect the block for spider cracks and deck it. An m30 with 15 psi can make ovver 300 hp. A 260/6 is the best overall m30 trans in my opinion. Check out a lot of builds on mye28 for some good info. You have the basics down.

Ok, great advice! I ended up reading good&tights whole build last night hahah he's as insane as he is inspirational. This build is gonna be so sweet, I'm not cutting any corners.

Edit: (Because my m20 blew, I want this swap to be reliable)

[makeshift]

the b35 cam is the most aggressive in the stock M30. As bearmw said, the m30 with some boost will be well over 300whp. I would suggest you wait to boost after you put the M30 in, because it has plenty of torque to move even a 3500lb car down the road.

I daily a 535i and I have an M10 e30. I think that in the e34 the motor could use another 50-70hp (seriously) from the factory, but put in a lighter e30 I think it would be a good match, even without boost. Depends on how fast you really want to go.

The M30 is usually pretty good with a stock head gasket and ARP head studs, some guys opt for a MLS and head studs, but it's probably only needed at 350+whp (YMMV--Check over on MyE28 for the real recipes)

Ok cool, that'll save me some money for tires. My rear ones are a little too small and almost bare anyway.

Ok, awesome! I wanted to add boost mainly because I use the highway just as often as the streets. I read m30's don't have a ton of power in the higher rpms, at least relative to m5x/s5x motors. So I thought a turbo would be a good way to balance it out and always have power available.

Yea, I'm not looking for much over 300hp but I thought a new gasket might be preemptive.

Edit: it's not like a blown gaskets a big deal though, huh?

[makeshift]

In hindsight I realized that this post was kind of vague/pointless. I guess I was just looking to see if there's anything I should be aware of, like how B34 blocks handle turbos better than B35s. I'll get it all figured out. In the meantime, I'm going to buy FrankM's guide as soon as I get paid.

Thanks to all who responded
-Matt

[Good & Tight]

In hindsight I realized that this post was kind of vague/pointless. I guess I was just looking to see if there's anything I should be aware of, like how B34 blocks handle turbos better than B35s. I'll get it all figured out. In the meantime, I'm going to buy FrankM's guide as soon as I get paid.

Thanks to all who responded
-Matt

The B34 is better for boost, it has 8:1 compression and the block is stronger.
I run a stock B34 block, no issues on the bottom end at all.

[makeshift]

The B34 is better for boost, it has 8:1 compression and the block is stronger.
I run a stock B34 block, no issues on the bottom end at all.

Otis! The man himself, I'm honored.

That's what I've been reading, but I've gotten mixed information. While it's agreed that lower compression is better for boost, I read that M30's in general are low compression engines. So from what I've learned, strictly referring to compression, the B35 is still ok to boost.

On a different note, like I mentioned earlier, this will be a daily driver and reliability is a top priority. So I would prefer the stronger B34 block.

The M30's low end torque and turbo-ability is what attracted me initially. Thus, I would like to achieve a higher compression ratio than 8:1 so that the low end performance of the engine doesn't suffer.

I was thinking of a CR anywhere around 9.5:1. Can this be done with a skimmed/milled/surfaced (not familiar with the proper terminology) B35 head on a B34? I like the B35 head because of the various upgrades BMW did.

I know you have an M90 head, would that be a better route to take?

To reiterate, this is my end goal:
A reliable M30 that performs well all around.
Natural low end performance for the street (-5k rpm).
And high end performance from the FI for the highway (5k+ rpm).

Edit: If I went with a B34 block and 1mm skimmed B35 head, would it be a good idea to get a B35 cam and pistons? And an adjustable cam gear, or would a thicker head gasket negate the difference made by skimming the head? Also, would skimming the head make it weaker/less reliable?

I apologize for the long winded response and greatly appreciate your insight.

[Good & Tight]

Considering your hp power goals, the B35 is the best choice.

[makeshift]

Ok, what can I do to ensure it's reliability besides replacing all the worn items?

[Good & Tight]

Ok, what can I do to ensure it's reliability besides replacing all the worn items?

If your buying the kit from TCD, I would ask Todd.

[Bearmw]

Actually measuring tolerances is a good way to start. Have the block magnafluxed and visually inspect for cracks. Keep things clean. Take your time. Use a good headgasket and clean all dirt and oil from head bolt holes. Inspect the oil pump and replace parts or the whole thing if necessary. When its built spin it without plugs to build oil and fuel pressure. Follow multiple ways to bleed out all air such as raising the coolant reservoir and pressurizing the thin hose between the radiator and the reservoir... Start with a colder plug until the tuning is squared away. As has already been said retorquing the head and adjusting the valves after driving say 1000 miles is a good Iidea. Do probably 3 oil changes in the first 3000 miles. This should be fun.