M30 firewall modification pics

[nighthawk]

i have an 89/90 e34 motor and an 84 m10 build. definitely needed massaging at the firewall but as they say, your mileage may vary. position 3 garagistic.

I would assume it had more to do with the fact its an early model then which b35 it was. Just my 2 cents though

[glnr13]

i have an 89/90 e34 motor and an 84 m10 build. definitely needed massaging at the firewall but as they say, your mileage may vary. position 3 garagistic.

[nighthawk]

Weird, I had to bang in my wall a good ~.75in in some spots to get my motor to fit my '92 325ic with the garagistic mounts. mine was the early b35 block, IDK if that makes a difference. I slotted the top support on my stock rad and it practically touches the dizzy.

Got the engine from a 91 535i at a junkyard. Don't know what gen b35 it is. Maybe different from yours I suppose.
Used stock m20 rubber mounts.

[hotdish]

Weird, I had to bang in my wall a good ~.75in in some spots to get my motor to fit my '92 325ic with the garagistic mounts. mine was the early b35 block, IDK if that makes a difference. I slotted the top support on my stock rad and it practically touches the dizzy.

[nighthawk]

position 2 or 3?

I'm not sure but I think it's position 3. The distributor cap is pretty close to the e28 radiator.

[glnr13]

position 2 or 3?

[nighthawk]

I didn't have to make any firewall modifications with the garagistic mounts on a b35 in a 91 325i. I didn't even have to remove the foam material. My dad and I simply pushed and pryed it onto the mounts when it was somewhat in position. No trans tunnel modifications either.

[glnr13]

CorvallisBMW, what is easier, retrofit my m10 ac comp with a different bracket on the engine or convert to r134

i mocked my car up with the m10 compressor on the m30 bracket fine. can't confirm about belt size or hose fitment since i ditched it when I finished the build.

[Doughnut]

I ran A/C no problem.

Had to extend the Low side hose as it was too short. (Original motor was an m40)

[CorvallisBMW]

I don't know what's involved with the m10, as I started with an m20. My guess is that the lines might be a bit too short as the m30 will put the AC compressor further towards the front of the car compared to the m10.

Retrofitting to r134a isn't hard, but it has nothing to do with engine swaps. The same amount of work is involved no matter what engine you have, as the engine is irrelevant to the type of refrigerant used.

Leave the compressor hooked up until you get the m30 in, and see if it can reach the bracket with the stock hoses. If it doesn't reach, you'll have to open the whole system anyway and swap in m20 hoses, at which point you can also convert to r134a if you want to.

It's possible to run ac with m30 swap? Interest suddenly piqued.

Of course, why wouldn't it be? The m30 is just a bigger m20... everything is the same. Lots of people have kept AC successfully and there are at least half a dozen threads in the m30 section dealing with it.

[SketchyRex]

CorvallisBMW, what is easier, retrofit my m10 ac comp with a different bracket on the engine or convert to r134

[ThatOneEuroE30]

It's possible to run ac with m30 swap? Interest suddenly piqued.

Read two post up

[Benjamin_Button]

It's possible to run ac with m30 swap? Interest suddenly piqued.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

I make my own rules.

Lolololol

[CorvallisBMW]

Do any decent pics exist? I have been on this site for quite a while and have never seen any. I am in the middle of an M30 swap and would like to see some. Post'em if you got'em

I don't have any pictures, but I didn't have to massage mine more than about 3/4" or so with the Good & Tight mounts.

Do you guys run AC?

I do, been running it since day 1. Works perfect.

Fuck AC haha. Btw you won't be able to install the motor with the AC compressor on if you plan on running it. Some have troubles getting the motor in with just the power steering pump. There really isn't any room to run AC with these swaps.

There is plenty of room if you're in "position 3" or whatever it's called. Basically if you have to massage your firewall in order to get the engine sat far enough back to match up with your mounts, then you'll have enough room for the AC compressor. Leave the compressor, lines, condenser, dryer, etc all hooked up when you remove the old engine. Just unbolt the compressor and tie it out of the way. When you install the m30, you'll have to modify the compressor bracket a bit but otherwise the compressor will bolt right up to your new engine.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=2000498&postcount=24