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I know it's been a while since this thread was updated, but how does that Z3M radiator fit? -
I'm curious what the compression ratio is with this set up?
Also what was the final price on the internals. I'm currently building a b34 block too. This may be a path I take!Leave a comment:
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CorvallisBMW: No one is more surprised by that than me. I generally expect most things I do to play out like an R-rated gearhead version of Scrat the squirrel.
Anywho...
Interior Update
With the harness inside the passenger compartment buttoned up, it was time to tackle the instrument cluster. Turns out, Batteries Plus found an exact match for the lithium batteries powering the SI board--including the welded-on tabs! 20 bucks and a week later, they were at my doorstep. Since I am no soldering wizard (actually more like the Sorcerer's Apprentice than anything ;)), I found a company that put them on the board for me.
A few screws, and a bit of cleaning...and
Meanwhile, I decided to get the trunk into better shape.
It has been low on my priority list...but the carpeting has been getting in the way recently. In the process, I decided to go ahead and build the new subwoofer "box"
I wish I could claim credit for this idea, but my brother was the one who led the way on this. He (like most vert owners) was tired of the trunk being taken up by the box--not to mention the agony if you ever have to get to the spare tire! His setup was very similar, and it worked surprisingly well. I made a few improvements, and I am going to track down some cheap free-air subs. I'm hoping they will help even more...the tight cone suspension will definitely help longevity!
Engine Addendum
I forgot to do this earlier, but I wanted to say thanks to Frank and the rest of the team at New-Part. He was nice, helpful, and a fellow German car enthusiast. His company has the absolute lowest price on Glyco S38 rod bearings--even cheaper than eBay! A word of caution: they sell Glyco per box, and it's <2> bearing halves in a box.
On a side note, anyone need some S38 rod bearings for cheap? I have almost a full set ;D M30 ones as well, thanks to initially having the dumb when I first ordered my bearings
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Engine Update
And there you have it! After all the measurements, stressful moments, and occasional panic...it turned out better than expected :D
So, for all those other Victor Frankenstiens out there, know this:
M30B34 crank
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M30B34 block
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CX Racing "S38" rods
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Wiseco Mitsubishi 3000GT turbo forged pistons
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Glyco S38 standard rod bearings
=
Zero Deck Block/Piston Setup!!!Leave a comment:
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It gets addicting, doesn't it ;) Wait until I get to the turbo! I read the most wonderful article about ceramic coating the inside of the compressor housing....and the impeller ;D
An "a la carte" turbo system is the way to go if you enjoy tinkering. I originally bought a complete vintage CarTech turbo kit, but the only thing I'm actually using out of it is the exhaust manifold.
I was terrified about sandblasting them! It's taken me months to work up the courage
I just hope the Cerakote stuff is as good as the reviews say...
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Damn you & your m30 turbo ideas...
I've now found myself piecing out a turbo build for my car.
The coating work you're putting in is looking great, I would have been so hesitant to sand blast the new pistons but the result looks well worth itLeave a comment:
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Engine Update
With the crankshaft installed, I had finally come a point I have been dreading...sandblasting the tops of my brand-new forged pistons
No going back now.
After cleaning and masking, it was time for the Piston Coat. Cook for 20 minutes at 175 degrees, then 300 degrees at 60 minutes, allow to cool and...
Gearhead muffins!
A little more cleaning and taping, and a light coat of Microfilm Lubricant painted on for good measure.
Looks almost like the product of skilled labor ;)
Time to break out the rods! I used wooden blocks to gently press the pins in with my vise, then (eventually) managed to install the retaining clips--occasionally after some swearing and a frantic search for a pin that had broken free and achieved orbital velocity...
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Bodywork Update
With the suspension nearly done, I realized it was finally time to start getting everything else looking nice--not to mention getting a better idea how to fit everything inside the panels. Once again, the stripper comes out...
If you think watching paint dry is boring, watching paint undry is somewhat more fascinating :) Still, since I had some time to kill, I figured I'd be productive...
Weatherstripping, locks, and plastic panels? Check!
Engine Update
The body wasn't the only thing that got some attention...
With bearings in tow, and my freshly arrived ARP main stud kit, I now have a moving part! :D
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Suspension Update
Thanks to those shiny new adapters, and my new lower control arms, it was time to bolt down the suspension and set the coilovers. I took out the springs, and adjusted the compressed damper height.
At full compression, it is about a 1/2" from hitting the studs on the top of the wheelhouse.
I marked the length of the damper from the top of the damper to the bottom part (the part that's welded to the knuckle), and transferred it to the other side. After that, I adjusted the dampers in the rear to match the (uncompressed) height of the fronts.
It's not exactly a lowrider, but it appears to be the most effective use of the damper travel. I figure it can adjust the ride height when I set the preload on the springs.
I do know that I have some fender rolling ahead of me...
Not only that, but I'm going to have to add clearance to the front of the front wheelwells, to permit full steering travel :???:
Braking Update
I wanted to get the rest of the hydroboost system in place, and that meant fabbing up a bracket. The system looked like this when I pulled it out:
So, I kept the dimensions roughly the same, and tucked it close against the strut tower.
Spiffy :D I used a mixture of E30 and E23 hoses, but I did have to extend a few of them...the hydraulic hose shop is not cheap, but they do very nice work. More on that later ;)Leave a comment:
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Interior Update
So, it just happened: one moment I'm staring at the ground points on the firewall, contemplating what to do--the next moment...
It makes me happy to see the dashboard in, but I can't escape the gnawing fear that I've forgotten something, and it will all have to come apart again
Braking Update
Thank you for your kind donation, Mr. E23!
I'm familar with how nice the hydro system is when on a 735i...I hope it feels the same on my car :p Looks like a few new high-pressure hoses, and I'm in business!
Suspension Update
Remember what I said about the front suspension?
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Suspension Update
The rear subframe is finally in the car! Of course, that meant installing the fuel tank, brake/fuel lines, and filler hose/EVAP system--but that's not nearly as cool :D
I know there's not much love for the CX Racing coilover setup--but I consider it a valid starting point. If the springs are junk, they're easy to swap out...same goes for the dampers, though with more effort.
However, I am not happy with what they offer for front camber/caster adjustment, so I decided to find a way to make my old K-MACs work with them....
More on this later ;)
Braking Update
The front caliper adapters came out perfectly!
I've redrilled the new lug holes in my Sonata rotors, so the next time you see all this, it should be attached to the car :)Leave a comment:
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BearMW: I have decided to put the rollcage idea on the back burner for now, but I will revisit it when I get closer to done.
CorvallisBMW: Anything beats sticking with that 4.11! Nothing like cruising on the freeway at 3500 or so
Interior Update
With the paintwork on the body finally finished, I could finally get some actual work done! I started with sound deadening panels:
Thank you Home Depot! FWIW, I did quite a bit of reading before deciding on the "Peel 'n Seal method". While it's true it adds some weight, and is nowhere near as effective as modern Dynamat, it's very similar to what our cars originally came with, and works well enough for my purposes :)
Next, the insulation--also courtesy of Home Depot (or Racer's Depot if you're trying to be cute):
That's a layer of duct insulation held down with aluminum tape--it's good for an R-6 rating as installed. It has aluminum foil on both side, and essentially heavy duty bubble wrap in between. The concept involved is similar to how Lizard Skins works.
After that came the electrical harnesses, a task so foul--so hellish, I did not save for posterity. A word to the wise: next time you see your harness and think "that cloth tape is in terrible shape...I should really rewrap my harness" walk up to your cat and rub his tummy for about 10 solid minutes. At least that will hurt less
Anyways, with that done it was time for carpeting. I took a tarp, made a redneck swimming pool, dunked the carpet in there, and sprinkled in OxyClean. I let it sit overnight, then got out there with a stiff nylon tire brush and scrubbed the crap out of it. When I pulled it out, the water was brown and chunky!
It had been growing algae, had grease and rust stains, and had brake parts laying in it for a year, but after all that, this was the result:
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I can't quite visualize the roll bar going the route you describe but that doesn't mean it won't work or at least help. I have no idea on track legality. I guess it depends on what track and what type of event?Leave a comment:
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